Member Since: 04 Mar 2015
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 94
Indeed!
Nice little project!
Should be the family bus for many years once up and running, got inspiration from the guys on here with so many more miles on theirs!
9th May 2015 7:45 pm
Alphamale
Member Since: 28 May 2014
Location: Belfast
Posts: 497
The cam locking, timing chain tensioning, and crankshaft locking tool set arrived from the US yesterday.
it's the OTC (6680) Cam Tool Set - Ford 3.9L 4V Engine that I ordered from Amazon.com for $114.13 (£72.51) Most prices I've seen for the LR set exceeds $400 (£254).
To day I decided to make sure it is the same toolset required for the camshaft and head removal on our 4.4 V8s and here are a few photos of the fit .........
Cam locking tool
Chain tensioning tool
The only one I didn't try was the crank lock, but as the others fitted ok I'll accept that it does too. The only thing I found was that the centre bolt on the cam lock is too short, being 55mm long. Fortunately I had a suitable 75mm M8 bolt which is ideal.
I also fond this on ebay for about half the price LR asks.
Soon have all the necessary tools and be ready to start engine strip down.
17th May 2015 10:57 pm
MrWillfin
Member Since: 04 Mar 2015
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 94
Brilliant! I'm still waiting on my cam tools, so haven't done much. They should be here this week to crack on.
The eBay link has expired, what was it for?Goodness knows what I've let myself in for...
19th May 2015 7:05 pm
Alphamale
Member Since: 28 May 2014
Location: Belfast
Posts: 497
The expire link was for one of these:- Land Rover 300Tdi, 200Tdi / Jaguar Crank Locking tool (LRT 12 080) (VS4985) if you copy this into the ebay search it should come up for you.
19th May 2015 8:25 pm
MrWillfin
Member Since: 04 Mar 2015
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 94
Oh ok I see, why do you need it?
Also, reading the posts above, it isn't clear that you need to remove the big crankshaft bolt and pulley to get the side cover off.Goodness knows what I've let myself in for...
19th May 2015 9:07 pm
Alphamale
Member Since: 28 May 2014
Location: Belfast
Posts: 497
To remove the heads you need to remove the front timing cover and you can't do that without removing the crankshaft pulley. The removal of the heads begins with removal of the cams as follows But you can't do that without removing the front cover step 4 below:
Camshafts RH (12.13.20)
Special Service Tools
Crankshaft locking tool
303-645
Camshaft setting/locking tool
303-530
Timing chain tensioning tool
303-532
Removal
Published : Apr 20, 2004
1 . Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Specifications (Section 414-
00)
2 . Remove the battery tray. For additional information, refer to Battery Tray (76.10.30) (Section 414-01)
3 . Raise and support the vehicle.
4 . Remove the engine front cover. For additional information, refer to Engine Front Cover (12.65.01)
(Section 303-01)
5 . Remove the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor. For additional information, refer to Crankshaft
Position (CKP) Sensor (18.30.12) (Section 303-14)
6 . Rotate the crankshaft until the flats on the camshafts are parallel with the cylinder head joint faces.
7 . NOTE :
The engine is now in the SAFE position.
Lock the crankshaft.
Install the special tool.
Install the screw.
8 . Remove the RH variable camshaft timing (VCT) control unit.
Remove the 3 bolts.
Remove and discard the O-ring seals.
9 . Install the special tool to the RH cylinder head.
Install the 3 bolts.
10 . Remove the primary timing chain tensioner.
Remove the 2 bolts.
11 . Remove the primary timing chain tensioner guide.
Remove the bolt.
12 . Remove the primary timing chain.
13 . Remove the secondary timing chain tensioner and the secondary timing chain.
Remove the 2 retaining bolts
14 . Remove the camshaft sprockets.
Remove the 2 bolts.
15 . Remove the special tool from the RH cylinder head.
Remove the 3 bolts.
16 . CAUTION: Evenly and progressively, release the camshaft bearing caps.
NOTE :
Remove the camshaft bearing caps. Note their position, orientation and markings, each is marked
with its position (number) and an orientation (arrow).
Remove the camshaft bearing caps.
Remove the 20 bolts.
17 . Remove the camshafts.
If you don't already have one get a copy of the D3 workshop manual covering the 4.4L engine. Some time ago I got something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Disco...4aea511281 and though it is a copy of the US manual it is indispensable.
19th May 2015 10:46 pm
Mogwyth
Member Since: 03 Oct 2014
Location: Pwllheli
Posts: 3976
Just ordered one ==================================
05 D3 HSE V8 4.4
04 MG TF 135
03 MG TF 115 Cool Blue Edition
02 MG TF 160
00 Hymer B564 Lionheart
1971 Series III 109
19th May 2015 11:08 pm
MrWillfin
Member Since: 04 Mar 2015
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 94
I'm up to point six now, have the front cover off and the crank position sensor out.
The flats on the cam shafts don't like up flat together, but I'm guessing if I turn it enough times it will come round to the safe position of both facing up so I can strip down the timing gear!
I'm having a bit of trouble with one of the exhaust downpipe bolts. It seems like a 13mm but is quite loose, and a 12mm doesn't quite fit on. Hmmm, It's bloody tight on a 13mm too! Having to lie underneath with a load of extensions on. A bit tricky!
Should have the heads off in a couple of weeks and sent off for the hardened valve seats.
Goodness knows what I've let myself in for...
9th Jun 2015 7:29 pm
Mogwyth
Member Since: 03 Oct 2014
Location: Pwllheli
Posts: 3976
Quote:
It's bloody tight on a 13mm too! Having to lie underneath with a load of extensions on. A bit tricky!
I sympathise having just taken the mine off, bank 1 cat knackered, probably caused by misfires from the VSR, both cats now in a bucket The difference is to be recommended ==================================
05 D3 HSE V8 4.4
04 MG TF 135
03 MG TF 115 Cool Blue Edition
02 MG TF 160
00 Hymer B564 Lionheart
1971 Series III 109
9th Jun 2015 9:55 pm
MrWillfin
Member Since: 04 Mar 2015
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 94
What size was it? 12 or 13mm?Goodness knows what I've let myself in for...
9th Jun 2015 9:56 pm
Mogwyth
Member Since: 03 Oct 2014
Location: Pwllheli
Posts: 3976
Now you're asking, pretty certain it was 13mm, they were bloody tight was very concerned that they might sheer.==================================
05 D3 HSE V8 4.4
04 MG TF 135
03 MG TF 115 Cool Blue Edition
02 MG TF 160
00 Hymer B564 Lionheart
1971 Series III 109
9th Jun 2015 10:17 pm
Alphamale
Member Since: 28 May 2014
Location: Belfast
Posts: 497
Your doing well there buddy. I hope to start mine by the end of the week and will try and do a video to put on youtube.
9th Jun 2015 11:04 pm
MrWillfin
Member Since: 04 Mar 2015
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 94
So the primary timing chain, tensioner and guides are now off. But I have a problem, in that one of the camshaft bolts have sheared on the LH bank exhaust cam.
Going to have to strip in a slightly different manner.
Looking to have all the cams off tomorrow, and heads off next week. So looking forward to getting a look the the heads and bores soon!Goodness knows what I've let myself in for...
18th Jun 2015 12:41 pm
Alphamale
Member Since: 28 May 2014
Location: Belfast
Posts: 497
Bit of bad luck there. I've had to order the m12 spline socket bit as all I have are Torx bits. Hope have my heads to the engineers by end of the week or early next week. Possibly going to cost around £500 ($793) if new valve seats required.
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The difference is to be recommended 
