Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
How To Replace Front Struts (D3)
After 10 years and 153k miles and with the suspension feeling jittery over bumps, I decided to change the front struts (airbag and shock combined). It took a while to research all the things that I thought might go wrong, but none did. Hopefully this write up will help others make the leap.
The things I was worried about were:
Could I undo the three nuts on top of the strut? [yes]
Could I work out how to disconnect the Voss connector [yes]
Did I have all the tools I needed [yes, after a trip to Halfords]
Here are the tools I used (plus Nanocome Evo and 1m breaker bar not shown]:
Click image to enlarge
The tools included:
22mm socket for wheel nuts
15mm ratchet spanner for nuts on top of strut [2 nearest you when looking under wing]
15mm combination spanner for starting and tightening those two nuts
15mm socket on 3/8 drive on normal ratchet to undo the third nut at back of strut
24mm deep socket on 1/2 inch drive with breaker bar for nut that attaches strut to lower wish bone
21mm socket or ring spanner to hold bolt that attached strut to lower wishbone
12mm open spanner for undoing voss connector on old strut
plastic trim lever [http://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/vs5213-trim-brake--hose-clip-tool-set-3pc-6390-p.asp]
Torque Wrench to 300Nm
Old Screw driver to drive the bolt through the wishbone
3 ton trolley jack and axel stands
With car on level and handbrake applied and rear wheels chocked, I jacked the front up on the front cross member. Wheel nuts slackened before wheels off ground and then jacked up rest of way and both wheels removed. This was better for us, as my son could work on one side and me on the other Axle stands put in place under front side jacking points.
Using Nanoncom Evo I then deflated the air bags. I have read other threads where folk have released the air by undoing the voss connector. Glad I did not have to do that as I had the strut free before I undid it. I then disconnected battery earth lead. Not sure if that was required, but seemed sensible.
If you have mudflaps fitted - remove them [3 Phillips screws]. Now remove all of the two-part plastic trim clips that hold the wheel arch plastic shield in place. I did consider trying to do the job without removing that shield, but decided after ten years, I was due a clear out - and it was There are two screws at the front of the shield.
Now remove the head lamp. I assume folk know how to do that. There is a small Phillips screw that holds the front of the wheel arch trim in place. Remove that.
Now start to pull the wheel arch trim off, starting at the door end. I did not break any clips, but have a stock just in case. The front of the trim is held in place in a locating slot.
Next, using the 24mm deep socket, breaker bar and 21mm socket/spanner, undo the bolt at the base of the strut, holding it to the wishbone. Picture shows the spanner holding the bolt still - you undo the NUT on other side.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/displayima...&pos=3
Once undone, I then place the jack underneath the wishbone. Don't raise the wishbone. I found the natural lie of the strut and wishbone made it easy to knock the bolt out with a hammer. Old screwdriver knocked it the last bit clear.
This picture shows the socket being used on the rear nut and the ratchet spanner on the two front ones. [I just put them there together for the photo!] I had soaked the nuts a few times the week before and they came undone easily. They are only torqued to 65Nm. Undo the three small nut with the 15mm socket or spanner.
Click image to enlarge
You can ignore the large nut in the middle - it does not need undoing, but does a good job of getting in the way. Unclip the airline hose so you will have slack when lowering the strut.
With nuts removed, the strut will lower with the airline still attached to the voss connector. I lowered it this far and then with a 12mm open spanner, undid the connector. Some air will still escape.
Click image to enlarge
With the voss connector undone, you can now remove the strut. Now you need to remove the old voss connector from the airline hose. There is a collar that is not complete. Open that with a screwdriver and remove the collar. the part that was undone, now slides off. Here is the parts when dismantled
Click image to enlarge
DO NOT undo the voss on the new strut.
Clean up the area that the top of the strut seats onto. Make sure the end of the airline hose is clean. Offer up the new strut, making sure it is the right way round. The tag half way down, faces you. Push the hose into the voss connector. It slides as far as a bulge in the pipe. Once pushed in, it is sealed and tight. Raise the strut so that three bolts and the voss connector pass through the holes in the strut seat. Make sure you don't get the hose kinked and caught.
Put everything back together. Things to watch out for:
I put Copper slip on the unthreaded part of the bolt at the base of the strut to help future removal
That NUT, needs to be torqued to 300Nm
The nuts on top of the strut should be at 65Nm, but in the end I did as Tight as I could with tools I used. I will check again in a month or so - the front two can be accessed OK.
Wash all the crud from behind the arch etc
Don't forget to clip the hoses back in place
When putting the wheel arch clips in, leave those near the arch itself until last - some of the clips have to go through the arch trim - you don't want to have to take them out again. Put them in once the arch trim is connected
Edit: For those using the Nanocom, there is no "Re-inflate" option - it is called "EAS enable process". Once it confirms complete, flick the height control to re-inflate airbags
Took about 2 hours with two of us and taking it very slow.
So, has it made a difference? Yes. Bumps are no longer as noisy and less vibration through steering wheel. My phone holder that used to rattle with nothing in it, is now quiet
I am now saving some pennies to do the rears!2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
Last edited by Barn1e on 4th Apr 2015 5:53 pm. Edited 1 time in total
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
Thanks Mark and thank you for clarifying a few things before I started. Mikey, I had worked out that I could probably do it without removing the liner, but it was a chance to spring clean the crud out, check other bits and of course I had a labourer to undo those plastic clips
I have made an edit to reflect how to re-inflate with the Nanocom. I was lucky to find a maplecottage post that explained which menu item to use.2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
4th Apr 2015 5:59 pm
SpiderBaby D3 Decade
Member Since: 21 Sep 2007
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 1410
Having done all four of mine I found the rears much easier so get stuck in!
I don't have the spare underneath so could slide in and out as needed thereI see no ships........
4th Apr 2015 6:40 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20836
The rears can be more awkward. Have had to lower the chassis to get a normal ratchet and socket in a few times...My D3 Build Thread
But my top nuts came out ok. Passenger side is the worst due to the location of the jb, but was ok. Inside nut is a pain, but worked from the inside out.Mark.
2006, D3 SE Auto - gone but not forgotten.
2014 BMW 530d M Sport Tourer.
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
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Disco Picture Website Here
4th Apr 2015 7:04 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Good write-up Barn1e.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
I have just been and checked all the nuts on the top of the strut for tightness. If I was doing this strut replacement again, I would only remove the wheel arch shield on the offside. On the other side there is more room. But someone with better choice of sockets etc may manage just fine. It is the rear nut closest to engine that is a 2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
I haven't fitted any new struts yet all of mine have been second hand, when you are fitting second hand ones you have to refit the old connectors, so no need to remove them from the pipes.
Barn1e get a propper hammer
Flack
5th Apr 2015 1:25 pm
fino
Member Since: 28 Feb 2014
Location: Middlesex/ Surrey
Posts: 163
Did mine yesterday. A half moon 15mm spanner does wonders on the rear nut.
Thanks for the write up which made knowing how to connect the air line a lot easier.
I know this thread is a year old but I just did my fronts and you can easily undo the urthest nut from inside the engine bay with a 15mm socket on an extension with a knuckle joint,Range Rover Westminster 4.4 TDV8 what a car
Discovery 3 HSE 2006 gone but never forgotten
Member of the 234,567 mile club😎
15th Sep 2016 12:05 pm
Shutts
Member Since: 26 Nov 2011
Location: Tiptree
Posts: 146
Replaced all 4 units on my D3 last weekend. Have a leak on one of the VOSS connectors. Taken it apart and the pipe looks OK but still leaks.
Is there anything that I can do to seal it? Maybe a rubbing it with wet and dry or heating up the pipe slightly to fill in any imperfections.
2005 D3 SE
1998 Disco 300tdi - slow play thing
1995 Defender 300tdi - Winching play thing
Aprilia RSV 1000 - fast play thing
Honda CR250 - noisy play thing
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Axle stands put in place under front side jacking points.
There are two screws at the front of the shield.
