Member Since: 10 Aug 2013
Location: Livingston
Posts: 551
no hot air !
as above ,in that my disco doesn't seem to get warm with regard to heating .im pretty sure this was ok before I had it regassed at start of summer as it had been blowing warm for ac/c . so from a quick search could this be an air lock? I have hse with rear heating option. so after regass my a/c is nice and cool, however unless I turn right up to full heat I don't feel much heat at all. also noticed that engine temp gauge takes a long time to come up to the middle of gauge as id expect it to . i would really appreciate your thoughts on this blessed are the losers ,for they determine the winners
5th Oct 2014 9:58 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2344
Usual cause of this is that the coolant thermostat is sticking partially open, or even fully open, therefore coolant takes ages to, or never gets up to, operating temp. Replace thermostat, top up, bleed, top up coolant etc. until level stays correct at expansion tank. Shouldn't be an expensive or difficult fix...
5th Oct 2014 10:09 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Always worth doing a HEVAC self-test as it resets all the actuators that control the hot/cold air mix.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 22 Feb 2014
Location: Scunthorpe
Posts: 584
So how do we do a HEVAC self test?
Pete.IID, webasto software and workshop facility's available.
6th Oct 2014 9:45 am
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
From a previous thread;
dsd1036 wrote:
Here the self test procedure:-
"With ignition off press and hold the ECON & RECIRC buttons whilst turning ignition on (no need to start car).
The control module will then compare the current HEVAC actuator motor positions with the values stored in the module and will indicate an error by flashing the ECON LED.
If there are no errors, the LED will go out and the system will function normally.
To confirm that there are no errors, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then back to the ON position.
Observe the operation of the programmed defrost LED.
If there are errors present, the programmed defrost LED will flash and the system will attempt to calibrate itself."
HTH
Darrell
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6th Oct 2014 9:51 am
Flapjack
Member Since: 10 Aug 2013
Location: Livingston
Posts: 551
ok thanks for the suggestions. so ive just ben having a quick play with the heating as im just in . I tried the hevac test as above a few times . I got a flashing econ button ach time but that went out pretty quick then I tried on and off etc and all seemed ok no lights or flashing that I could tell. so not sure where that leaves me? I turned the engine on in drive and popped the bonnet to make sure fan was running ,which it is . inside the car I tried getting hot air but still no avail . something seems wrong to me in that nothing seems to actually come out of the vents unless I turn it down to cooler temperature's or to full cold , it kicks in full blast blowing cold but as I turn it back up roughly past 20 on dial it seems to change sound and almost feels like its blowing backwards . engine temperature wasnt rising so I took it for a quick pin round the block and the needle did rise bit to almost quarter up if that makes sense but still seemed to make little difference . turned off engine messed around some more... I could hear a strange whirring / vibrating noise from under drivers seat its dark but even with torch I cant see any thing or where the noise is coming from but its quite loud but only really noticeable when on full het and full power
so im t a complete loss and really need some help this could be one or more things I guess . seems strange to me and im pretty sure it was ok before I has air con regassed . another thing that may be relatd is before regass I had a new heating relay put in as had nothing at all blessed are the losers ,for they determine the winners
6th Oct 2014 8:51 pm
DaveJLBI
Member Since: 07 Mar 2014
Location: Clare
Posts: 680
I had similar issues when I got my 05 D3 about 7 months ago, I was advised on here to get the software in the climate control unit updated.
Did it and it helped, but there was also mention at the time that the ambient sensor for the cabin temp can be affected by heat under the dash as the pipe from the little vent beside the steering wheel to the sensor is not insulated. I checked mine during the summer when installing my bluetooth system and it is not insulated. I am having difficulty getting heat into the cabin again in recent days so the vehicle is due in for service, I will be asking dealer to replace thermostat (As the coolant tank needs to be replaced due to 'porous float nonsense').
Hope that helps, but the software update may help.
7th Oct 2014 10:11 am
Flapjack
Member Since: 10 Aug 2013
Location: Livingston
Posts: 551
Thanks, does anyone else have any input could really do with any pointers from some guru's please blessed are the losers ,for they determine the winners
7th Oct 2014 5:53 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Yep, find out what the actuators and flaps are actually doing.
- Use cheap (circa £30) USB borescope down the vents to achieve this without dismantling anything.
Confirm that the coolant pipes and heater matrix are getting to the correct temperature.
- Use cheap IR gun to trace and monitor the hot water flow.
Confirm that there are no heater fault codes and live temp data is correct.
- Use IID Tool or similar (beg, borrow or buy) or use forum sponsor
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 10 Aug 2013
Location: Livingston
Posts: 551
thanks very much robbie
this sound like it may turn into an adventure , ill try and get a camera down there think my friend has one at work , not sure about the other thing but may buy one . another guy at work had a snap on diagnostics thingy ,although I know this is limited and not ideal would it do~?
seems strange though that this seems to have occurred after the ac recharge although cant guarantee that! something is wrong but what ? and where ? and how many things are wrong? wish it was as simple as you being able to tell me but I realise its not! bit worried about the sound under the seat though?blessed are the losers ,for they determine the winners
7th Oct 2014 7:19 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
I really do use one of these cheapo ebay specials; with a 7mm head it gets into most places and does the job. It has saved me a number of times from needlessly removing stuff for access.
Used it on the washing machine this weekend. Sadly it revealed that I have to take the darn thing to bits again.
Flapjack wrote:
...something is wrong but what ? and where ? and how many things are wrong?
If you follow the advice above we should be able to answer all your questions.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 10 Aug 2013
Location: Livingston
Posts: 551
many thanks Robbie im on it and will touch base over the weekend? good luck with the washing machine blessed are the losers ,for they determine the winners
7th Oct 2014 8:09 pm
Flapjack
Member Since: 10 Aug 2013
Location: Livingston
Posts: 551
Okay soon unfortunately I've not managed to get an adequate camera to fit down vents. I did the reset and for a while it seemed better, car would heat up fairly quick and have full hot air etc but recently or intermittently the temp gauge has been fluctuating and doesn't seem to sit in the middle
Seems to sit at a quarter up and this seems to then not let the full heater functions work
So ant more help to try and clear this up would be great, still seems likely to be thermostat or temp sensor? Possibly pump? Just don't want to go buying parts until I'm more sure!blessed are the losers ,for they determine the winners
2nd Nov 2014 8:48 am
mike23118
Member Since: 01 Oct 2010
Location: North Wales
Posts: 1028
Sorry I know it's stating the obvious but have you checked water level ?
2nd Nov 2014 11:36 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Flapjack wrote:
...while it seemed better, car would heat up fairly quick and have full hot air etc but recently or intermittently the temp gauge has been fluctuating and doesn't seem to sit in the middle
Seems to sit at a quarter up and this seems to then not let the full heater functions work
So ant more help to try and clear this up would be great….
At the risk of repeating myself:
Robbie from a while back wrote:
Confirm that the coolant pipes and heater matrix are getting to the correct temperature.
- Use cheap IR gun to trace and monitor the hot water flow.
Confirm that there are no heater fault codes and live temp data is correct.
- Use IID Tool or similar (beg, borrow or buy) or use forum sponsor
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
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. engine temperature wasnt rising so I took it for a quick pin round the block and the needle did rise bit to almost quarter up if that makes sense but still seemed to make little difference . turned off engine messed around some more... I could hear a strange whirring / vibrating noise from under drivers seat 
, ill try and get a camera down there think my friend has one at work , not sure about the other thing but may buy one . another guy at work had a snap on diagnostics thingy ,although I know this is limited and not ideal would it do~?
wish it was as simple as you being able to tell me but I realise its not! bit worried about the sound under the seat though?
At the risk of repeating myself:
