Member Since: 20 Nov 2013
Location: South
Posts: 53
Robbie thank you.
Will gear box need rebuilding when a TC is fitted?
25th Nov 2013 7:14 pm
z4cAtS
Member Since: 05 May 2011
Location: M4 J13
Posts: 137
As with a lot of things, it depends.
Mine was done recently and didn't need anything other than fluid.(Remap, EGRs Blanked,Silicon I/C hose) from BAS, (Torque Convertor, Compressor, FL Wishbones, Alternator) by WD, Belts by Newbury4x4, Megaflush+extra cooler by GRGB, Diff+Transfer oils, ARB Bushes, Fuel filter, Fixed Towbar, Remote FBH.
NJSSAm I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
I had my sump replaced earlier this year - and amongst the shots I took, there are ones of a gear box in bits ( Not mine but a failed BMW one - the black plastic square thing is the oil seal between the pump and I think TC is what failed and completely knackered the box.)
The only thing I didn't get any shots of is the TC!
I'm hoping to get my tc changed soon, anglefire are Bristol transmissions still doing the £850+vat for the change
27th Nov 2013 7:56 am
Arctic Monkey
Member Since: 20 Nov 2013
Location: South
Posts: 53
Not sure what the costings are yet. It's all under warranty should find out this week.
27th Nov 2013 8:53 am
Arctic Monkey
Member Since: 20 Nov 2013
Location: South
Posts: 53
A quick update:
New TC was fitted and runs like new, very smoothe! I also had both front lower suspension arms changed as they were shot.
However.......
Today I smelt fumes inside the cab, the smell of diesel. It only lasted for about 2 minutes after driving it down the road. What could this be?
And finally.. Yesterday whilst driving down a sandy track which was quite bumpy, I was getting lots of steering knocks. I dont get any knocks at all when driving on the roads and going over speed bumps ect.
Any views please?
31st Dec 2013 3:51 pm
euangibson
Member Since: 24 Dec 2010
Location: Borders
Posts: 11027
My guess for the knocks,bearing in mind you've had the front arms done,would be lower steering column.....my D3 didn't knock after the suspension arms were replaced,but was bad on rutted farm tracks until the lower steering column was replaced.....not a big or expensive job,from memory the part is roughly £60 "Better to remain silent and be thought a fool,than to speak out and remove all doubt" ?.....what rubbish...
Locking rear E-diff
RLD spare wheel protector & sump guard
Extended roof rails
Series 111 mudflaps
Black side tubes,grill and vents
Timed climate remote
Hids4u interior lights
D4 Firenze my2012 HSE
D3 Java 2005 SE manual (sold,sadly,thanks for the memories)
1966 '88 Series 2a....still starts in the morning better than I do...
31st Dec 2013 3:55 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20836
Arctic Monkey wrote:
Today I smelt fumes inside the cab, the smell of diesel. It only lasted for about 2 minutes after driving it down the road. What could this be?
Most likely the FBH running. Assuming it was less than 5 degrees
Arctic Monkey wrote:
And finally.. Yesterday whilst driving down a sandy track which was quite bumpy, I was getting lots of steering knocks. I dont get any knocks at all when driving on the roads and going over speed bumps ect.
ARB bushes, inner steering arms/T.R.E's, or lower steering column My D3 Build Thread
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Yesterday whilst driving down a sandy track which was quite bumpy, I was getting lots of steering knocks. I dont get any knocks at all when driving on the roads and going over speed bumps ect. 
