Member Since: 16 Nov 2013
Location: Nr Bath
Posts: 83
Should I Waxoyl?
Are D4's potential rust buckets? If so, should I have my D4 done while its still new?
NigelD4 XS just sold. The best car I’ve owned. Over 10 years and no problems.
1st Dec 2013 11:15 am
DG Site Moderator
Member Since: 12 Dec 2005
Location: The Gaff
Posts: 50978
Only if you have a beard and wear woolly underpants
all depends on how long you are keeping it tbh ...if it's until you are about to pop your clogs grandad then maybe ...if it's 6 years then no 21 year LR veteran > D2 GS 2003 > D3 S 2006 > D3 HSE 2009 > D4 HSE 2013 > D4 HSE 2015 > D5 HSE 2018 > DS HSE R-Dynamic P300e 2021
Are D4's potential rust buckets? If so, should I have my D4 done while its still new?
Nigel
YES....but get professional do it - ask around a bit
or prepare yourself your vehicle & be brave.....do it yourselfBREXIT - done properly.
Right now ...We need Government - not Politics
Save the Dipstick Flagbearer-keep it simple, less likely to fail campaign-agenda items:Starting Handles, Acetylene Lamps.
Founder: Dipsticks-R-Us Inc
D3 HSE-perfectly formed, passenger friendly...has real DIPSTICK
Jag XK-but sadly no DIPSTICK...HUGE design fault
FL2 has DIPSTICK..."real comfort in rear seats"
VW Golf wondermobile (?)..has real DIPSTICK
Morris Minor..original DIPSTICK technology..and a real KEY.
Last edited by BLFarrar on 1st Dec 2013 4:30 pm. Edited 1 time in total
1st Dec 2013 11:40 am
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
I didn't do my D3 when I bought it 8 years ago, thinking I would keep it for about 6 years. Have not had reason (that I can justify) to change it so now embarked on treatment as and when I am underneath and have panels removed. I used the various Dinitrol products in aerosol cans. So much easier than when I used waxoyl about 30 years ago. After treatment, the metal that had surface rust looks as good as new. That is probably the real reason I have done it - restoring its good looks 2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
1st Dec 2013 11:51 am
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
depends on how long you keep it.
when I stripped my D3 down after 6 years there wasn't much rust at all. what rust there was, was just very minor surface rust - quite insignificant really. and considering it had done 150k miles and used extensively offroad I was very pleased with the condition. I wouldn't spend the money on treating it unless I was keeping it for a lot, lot longer.Duncan
-----------------------------------------------------
If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
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D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
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1st Dec 2013 11:53 am
Trigger
Member Since: 11 Nov 2012
Location: Gone
Posts: 295
Last edited by Trigger on 7th Feb 2014 12:35 am. Edited 1 time in total
1st Dec 2013 12:05 pm
Adimac
Member Since: 04 Nov 2013
Location: Scottish Borders
Posts: 40
Not all bodywork!
Had a merc...brilliant supercharged engine, very quiet, lots of pluses but was showing signsof rust after 4 years which I could not get on top of and sold it at 7 after local garage said, quietly, might be time to get shot it's getting hard to find good metal to patch on to - was a real Friday afternoon job!
SWIMBOs jazz, 10 years old now, is in contrast near perfect!
Mind you I agree - last used waxoyl 20 years ago but if I had used it on the merc from new......?
1st Dec 2013 12:19 pm
Zikzik
Member Since: 16 Nov 2013
Location: Nr Bath
Posts: 83
DG wrote:
Only if you have a beard and wear woolly underpants
all depends on how long you are keeping it tbh ...if it's until you are about to pop your clogs grandad then maybe ...if it's 6 years then no
Howjuno i am a grandad eh?D4 XS just sold. The best car I’ve owned. Over 10 years and no problems.
1st Dec 2013 12:40 pm
Zikzik
Member Since: 16 Nov 2013
Location: Nr Bath
Posts: 83
So the general view is disco 3/4 are not prone to rust. That's good to know. If they were, I suppose it should evident by now on early D3's.
I want to think its a keeper, but there is plenty of time to find out during 3 years of warranty on mechanical / electrical stuff. I wonder if I would be more interested in a car for sale at 5 or 10 years old if it has been treated.
My vw camper, bought new in 2002, was plastered underside with whatever treatment used in the factory. Only one small area started blistering near the door and that probably started as a stone chip the rest underneath looks as good as new after 96k miles, so that has turned into a keeper.
ND4 XS just sold. The best car I’ve owned. Over 10 years and no problems.
1st Dec 2013 12:49 pm
DG Site Moderator
Member Since: 12 Dec 2005
Location: The Gaff
Posts: 50978
Zikzik wrote:
Howjuno i am a grandad eh?
"pop your clogs" is a saying from where I come from 21 year LR veteran > D2 GS 2003 > D3 S 2006 > D3 HSE 2009 > D4 HSE 2013 > D4 HSE 2015 > D5 HSE 2018 > DS HSE R-Dynamic P300e 2021
1st Dec 2013 1:16 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Trigger wrote:
Wax Oil went out with the Ark. Bodywork has moved on since then.
Agree with the above, and the fact that D3s / D4s are not prone to rust beyond the cosmetic surface rust on the chassis.
If you have the need to add protection don't use waxoil. Even Noah found it a pain and it only lasted one biblical flood.
Dinitrol clear (eg Dinitrol 1000) is the easiest stuff to use if you have a demonstrable need (eg using your Disco for boat recovery). If you want more protection then the rest of the Dinitrol range is probably the best, but verging on overkill on a D3/D4.
As I also own an MX-5 I am pondering what to do with that. Sadly they do have a reputation for the tin worm although ours has only just had its 1st birthday.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 23 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 10564
Zikzik wrote:
DG wrote:
Only if you have a beard and wear woolly underpants
all depends on how long you are keeping it tbh ...if it's until you are about to pop your clogs grandad then maybe ...if it's 6 years then no
Howjuno i am a grandad eh?
DG has crystal balls............MY17 D5 1st Edition Namib Orange
MY15 D4 HSE Kaikoura Stone
MY12 D4 HSE Nara Bronze Sold and gone
MY11 D4 HSE Stornaway Grey Sold and gone
D3 S spec Silver Sold and gone
Tow bar, full length roof bars, side steps, tow bar storage unit, surround camers.
D4 camera club
1st Dec 2013 1:48 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2344
One thing I would do anti corrosion wise with a new D4,(and have done on my D3,but probably too late ) would be to smother the brake pipes from front to rear with thick grease, including the areas where they are clipped to the body / chassis.
1st Dec 2013 2:16 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Not a bad idea.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 16 Nov 2013
Location: Nr Bath
Posts: 83
Robbie wrote:
Trigger wrote:
Wax Oil went out with the Ark. Bodywork has moved on since then.
Agree with the above, and the fact that D3s / D4s are not prone to rust beyond the cosmetic surface rust on the chassis.
If you have the need to add protection don't use waxoil. Even Noah found it a pain and it only lasted one biblical flood.
Dinitrol clear (eg Dinitrol 1000) is the easiest stuff to use if you have a demonstrable need (eg using your Disco for boat recovery). If you want more protection then the rest of the Dinitrol range is probably the best, but verging on overkill on a D3/D4.
As I also own an MX-5 I am pondering what to do with that. Sadly they do have a reputation for the tin worm although ours has only just had its 1st birthday.
Thanks for this.
I do launch & recover my 5m RIB but the vehicle does not go in the water (rope between trailer and tow bar is the answer to that - simples
ND4 XS just sold. The best car I’ve owned. Over 10 years and no problems.
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) would be to smother the brake pipes from front to rear with thick grease, including the areas where they are clipped to the body / chassis.
