Holmkiern You dont need any locking tool for the rear belt, I used it on the first one I did, I then realised you dont need it, the belt has two white lines, just make sure these white lines, line up with the marks on the fuel pump and camshaft wheel pulleys.
Just line the marks up on the rear belt before you start to remove it.
As long as they are lined up with the marks it will be fine, I have done a few hundred D4 rear belts this way and never had a problem.
Flack
12th Sep 2021 7:15 am
Holmkiern
Member Since: 16 Jul 2017
Location: Upphärad,west coast
Posts: 66
Thank you for advice.
Then I can proceed and will take off harness (if I can find out how to do it)on monday. I forgot to check before I started: is motor running clockwise or unclockwise? Just so I turn motor in right direction to get marks om pump/camshaft in right position.
12th Sep 2021 7:36 am
SteveNorman
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1146
While standing at the front of the vehicle the engine turns clockwise.
12th Sep 2021 8:37 am
Holmkiern
Member Since: 16 Jul 2017
Location: Upphärad,west coast
Posts: 66
I scratch my head. Wire harness goes down behind cover so I cant get it out of the way. Contact housing is loose from left side but nu use since harness still blocks. Shall I disconnect under car or?
No just push it out of the way, make sure you undo all the straps that hold it, there is one buried under the fuel pipes that needs to be removed so you shove it back.
Flack
12th Sep 2021 1:28 pm
Holmkiern
Member Since: 16 Jul 2017
Location: Upphärad,west coast
Posts: 66
Ok,thanks.
I was able to get off cover and all is revealed.
Turned engine so both markes are visiable but wait for change until tomorrow morning when Im more alert.
Must say that it is fantastic with this forum and all people with all knowledge and also beeing willing to spend time helping people
I should have changed the fuel pump belt some years ago but hesitated since I knew it was a border for my knowledge.
Thank you to you all!
12th Sep 2021 4:34 pm
Holmkiern
Member Since: 16 Jul 2017
Location: Upphärad,west coast
Posts: 66
Hi,
I have now got tensioner in place(not released) and is now struggling to get belt in place.
It is on camshaft pulley and tensioner and 4-5 teeth on pump pulley so mark on belt match mark on pulley but cant get on pulley.
Is the best way to rotate engine to get belt on or?
13th Sep 2021 9:52 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8243
Holmkiern wrote:
I'm not on timing belt. I is on the other end,high pressure pump belt.
Br johnny
Sorry I meant HP pump belt at the rear, you do need them for the front timing belt.
Do not tighten the tensioner pulley up, leave it loose until you have got the belt in position, do not release the tension on the pulley until you have tightend the pulley up and checked the timing marks.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
13th Sep 2021 3:23 pm
Holmkiern
Member Since: 16 Jul 2017
Location: Upphärad,west coast
Posts: 66
No problem.
Well, I have not torqued the pulley and ill not release the tension until I know all is right.
I added belt on cam pulley and tried to push it on the pump pulley..that was wrong strategy I think. Better to put the belt on pump pulley first and then try to get it on the cam pulley because I think it would be easier on a bigger diameter.
If only there was more space..
My hands looks like I have been in fight with an army of cats..
13th Sep 2021 4:54 pm
Alphamale
Member Since: 28 May 2014
Location: Belfast
Posts: 497
I had my front belt done a month ago by BLRC in Saintfield N. Ireland £350 inc. VAT. They don't do many rear belts and haven't seen any fail. They say the few they have done were with the body on and they were in good order when removed. They leave it up to the owner's discretion to have it done or not.
Don't get me wrong, they're not recommending not doing it, but they think it's OK to leave and do every other belt service interval (unless the owner really wants it done).
One thing to remember with this belt is that, unlike the front one which if it fails will destroy the engine, it's not under so much strain and no damage will result from it's failure, but you could be left stranded.
I weighed up the p's & c's and decided to only have the front done now, but if I still have the car at the next change interval I'll get both done (unless it fails sooner).
If the rear belt does fail, it can cause a lot of damage to the rear of the engine and the main wiring harness.
I always fit the tension and tighten that up, I then get the belt on the Camshaft pulley, then work the slack to the fuel pump pulley, then pull it on to the belt tensioner, then pull the pin.
Flack
13th Sep 2021 6:26 pm
Holmkiern
Member Since: 16 Jul 2017
Location: Upphärad,west coast
Posts: 66
Belt on and all put back in place.
When cranking/starting 2 error codes came up:
B1087-93 and P0A1A-87 and GAP say 12,2V even as a Ctek charger has been filling up during these days.
Was afraid that it had something to do with belt but can turn the crank with tool.
Maybe a damaged cable? Are there a contact housing on engine that I could have forgotten?
Did you make sure the alternator plug was fully clicked on.
Flack
14th Sep 2021 3:46 pm
Holmkiern
Member Since: 16 Jul 2017
Location: Upphärad,west coast
Posts: 66
Which of the contact housing include alternator wires?
Only contact housing I separated(as I recall it) was one on the ECU,black 20-30 poles,white 20-30 poles and a smaller approx 10 poles. All in battery box.
I just put in a fully charged battery but GAP say 12,2V when connected in car and when measuring on poles it is 12,2. Could it be battery bad(6 months old) or short circuit?
@Flack: I never disconnected at alternator since I worked in back of motor and if you mean one of the connectors in battery box,I dont know which connect battery/alternator.
Do you know how to detect where signal is lost?
BCM or alternator check?
14th Sep 2021 6:16 pm
johnhorgan
Member Since: 23 Sep 2019
Location: Richmond
Posts: 118
Thanks for the advice about fuel pump belt installation.
It took me a while to figure it out, but provided the camshaft pulley has the timining pin in at the front of the engine, the rear pulley will also be in place.
If you have two white lines on the new belt (lining up to the marks on both pulleys), the fuel pump has also to be in the correct position.
If you have no marks visible, just paint 2 marks on the pulleys and belt before removal.
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I meant HP pump belt at the rear, you do need them for the front timing belt.
