Member Since: 11 Mar 2009
Location: Somerset
Posts: 3551
Looking at the drawing quickly it looks like the system is totally different to D3 and D4 up to my12 it runs on a system called FET =Field effect transistors and it all comes from and returns to the body control modual I've only managed a quick look so take it with a pinch of salt for the minute
Spoke to my local dealer and he said that the spots and loom are totally separate from the car lights and need to be operated by a separate switch in the cab.Wanted D4s non runners pm for competitive price.
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23rd Aug 2012 4:04 pm
woody32 Site Sponsor
Member Since: 11 Mar 2009
Location: Somerset
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Shot down in flames in less than a minute Wanted D4s non runners pm for competitive price.
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23rd Aug 2012 5:00 pm
blue meanie D3 Decade
Member Since: 04 Aug 2005
Location: Newbury
Posts: 6861
blue meanie wrote:
if it's any help on my D3 I just 'scotchlocked' a feed wire off the halogen driving light part of the Xenon headlight ( ie the bit that only comes on with mainbeam ) from inside the unit, drilled a small hole in the replaceable cover for it which I then sealed with silicone. This is then run to the relay that feeds the driving lights. Job done
and theeeeennn......???
23rd Aug 2012 5:05 pm
MikeS2005
Member Since: 13 Sep 2008
Location: Midlothian
Posts: 920
lights
Hi
Right so Russels son youve found the 12v source as I expected now if someone had tested the big plug properly you will also find the same feed in the big black plug as all the big black plug does is plug into those feeds inside the light so this same feed will be in that plug somewhere.
Now that new wiring type ids a new one on me woody so now youve got me curious it may be you will have to activate the spot light system on the new D4 before you can do anything so if any of the dealers are reading this can someone please go and inspect the looms for the D3/D4b and see if theres a difference.
cheers
23rd Aug 2012 5:35 pm
Russell
Member Since: 24 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 10564
Used my11 spot lamp wiring diagram to go through and compare with actual my12 car. This is instructions from spot lamp kit and unfortunately things are different, taken light out and got a switched feed off the h7 unfilled light next to xenon so getting somewhere now.MY17 D5 1st Edition Namib Orange
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23rd Aug 2012 5:35 pm
Russell
Member Since: 24 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 10564
As said earlier spemt some time today going through the fitting istructions for a MY11 cars spot lights and comapring with the MY actual car. First off there is a connection under the engine bay fuse box, grenn/yellow wire and an orage wire. This matches the fitting inst for MY11car spots, it also matches the wiring diagarme for a MY12 car.
Next there is a fitting according to the MY11 instructions on the main fuse box (in car) connection C0582 and this has a green wire on pin 43, again this matches on MY12 car. Next terminal block on bottom of main fuse box C0580 should have a missing cable at pin 27 which then needs cable attaching, on car this pin 27 is blank and a cable could be attached.
Finally in NSF foot well there are three junction plugs one of them C2239 again MY12 car marries up with MY11 instrctions, this needs to have a cable attached at pin 3, again on car this pin is free but there is nothing on the other side of the plug for it to connect too.
Having looked harder the wiring in this plug is slightly diffrent from that shown on the MY11 drawing.
All wires that are in place are the correct colours but there are obviously diffrences. Could not find a switched main beam live at any of the points
Next took NS front headlight out and had a look, H7 fill in bulb has two wires, one grey one black, grey one is a switched main beam live. Traced this back to the mulit plug on back of light via continuity check and it connects to two pins neither seem to give a switched live via a meter on the plug, appear to give voltage all the time but not as high as 12 volts
May be able to take the relay switch feed from the grey wire on back of light,
lets see what Dunc and Woody come up with.
The fitting kit wiring was from owners accessory section on topix and was kit VPLAV0019 http://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/co...;id=113980MY17 D5 1st Edition Namib Orange
MY15 D4 HSE Kaikoura Stone
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23rd Aug 2012 10:09 pm
MikeS2005
Member Since: 13 Sep 2008
Location: Midlothian
Posts: 920
lights
Hi Russels son
You wouldnt find a 12v at any of those points as the car dosnt know its got spot lights fitted you will have to get this activated through the IDS, Faultmate or Autologic diagnostics you would then be able to test those points as they will remain non active until you tell the car to activate them, the only other way would be to put the OE loom in, thats why Im trying to get a LR dealer to have a look.
I am very curious as to how you cant find a 12v going to the back of the headlight as per the aux driving light thats giving you a 12 v inside the case as I cant see it going through any type of relay inside the headlamp, but you never know .
Does any of the wires tested in the plug rise in voltage when the high beams are flicked on and off as if it does this might be the wire thats needed as it dosnt necessarily need a clean 12v to switch the relay over , but it does on some relays so beware of this.
This might be a stupid question but are you disconnecting the plug when testing or leaving it attached and probing the wires, if your disconnecting it it wont show you the values you are looking for it has to remain attached to the headlight as the car will think it has a fault if its disconnected and may shut the voltage down just a thought .
cheers
24th Aug 2012 7:04 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
seeing woody23 tomorrow so will have chat then
its all due to this FES stuff
i may have to buy the LR kit and install that Duncan
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24th Aug 2012 7:11 pm
woody32 Site Sponsor
Member Since: 11 Mar 2009
Location: Somerset
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5mins this morning and Dunc has driving lights that come on with main beam Wanted D4s non runners pm for competitive price.
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25th Aug 2012 3:07 pm
Russell
Member Since: 24 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
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Where did you get feed from woodyMY17 D5 1st Edition Namib Orange
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25th Aug 2012 3:13 pm
woody32 Site Sponsor
Member Since: 11 Mar 2009
Location: Somerset
Posts: 3551
It's the same as the D3 I think pin 10 blue & black in the o/s light multiplug
The reason your seeing 12v all the time is because it's all controlled by FETs in the bcm,the 12volts you see on your multimeter has no current behind it so won't operate your lights,so when you test it and see 12v you automatically think you can't tap into that cause your lights will be on all the time its not until you operate main beam you get current flowing which then operates the relay,I checked what amps a common relay needs to operate which is 12v/by resistance of terminals 85 & 86 should be around 90 ohms =0.133A so not much to worry about there.
Russell we only tried it quickly on duncs as his lights are not fitted,so if you do manage to have ago over the weekend let us know how you get on plus im not sure if it would be worth fitting a diode inline Wanted D4s non runners pm for competitive price.
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25th Aug 2012 4:14 pm
Russell
Member Since: 24 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 10564
Thanks for the info, I was working on the FEt situation and had come to the same conclusion. Would we better using a diode protected relay for extra safety. Did you chase the wire back further or just connect by the plug at the back of the light.MY17 D5 1st Edition Namib Orange
MY15 D4 HSE Kaikoura Stone
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MY11 D4 HSE Stornaway Grey Sold and gone
D3 S spec Silver Sold and gone
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25th Aug 2012 5:06 pm
Russell
Member Since: 24 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 10564
That was quick, will not be trying over weekend as have no relay or switch MY17 D5 1st Edition Namib Orange
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MY12 D4 HSE Nara Bronze Sold and gone
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D4 camera club
25th Aug 2012 5:08 pm
woody32 Site Sponsor
Member Since: 11 Mar 2009
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Yeah I think a diode would give you a bit of extra safety.
I just took a link out of the back of the plug but the wire comes from the central control box I think from memory so could tap in up there
Get yourself down halfords and pick up some bits Wanted D4s non runners pm for competitive price.
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25th Aug 2012 5:22 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
Thanks Woody , hope you werent in too much trouble when you got home !!Duncan
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I've only managed a quick look so take it with a pinch of salt for the minute 
Shot down in flames in less than a minute 
its not until you operate main beam you get current flowing which then operates the relay,I checked what amps a common relay needs to operate which is 12v/by resistance of terminals 85 & 86 should be around 90 ohms =0.133A so not much to worry about there. 
