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DSL
Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73131
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Just a couple of tips for fellow non-techies here re fitting the Mantec plate after you've taken it off (for cleaning the mud out or servicing).
1 Refit with new bolts. I was having real problems with the original rusty & muddy ones so bought a pack of M10 x 40mm (pack of 10 for £3) and they worked a treat, uses a 17mm socket & spanner rather than the 15mm. For the fiddly ones at the front you can hand tighten the nut up in the bumper much more so that you only put the spanner in there once it is all a lot more stable. Also new bolts means any rounding when putting on & taking off is not compounded.
2 Have the car at "normal" height, not offroad height, then it is easier to support the plate with your body as you lift it. The skinnier Mantec users might need access height!
Also pick a cold day to do it, it focuses your attention & gets the job one quicker!!!
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12th Jan 2008 9:26 am |
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robsmith
Member Since: 02 Sep 2007
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 2403
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And the larger ones "off-road" height
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12th Jan 2008 10:01 am |
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DSL
Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73131
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12th Jan 2008 10:20 am |
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RPJ
Member Since: 05 Mar 2007
Location: Puzzleopolis
Posts: 473
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Ha Ha This a way!
Ha Ha That a way!
Ha Ha This a way!
My oh My!
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15th Jan 2008 12:13 pm |
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PierreJ
Member Since: 22 Aug 2007
Location: Perth, W.A.
Posts: 448
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Re: Refitting Mantec plate |
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DSL wrote:Just a couple of tips for fellow non-techies here re fitting the Mantec plate after you've taken it off (for cleaning the mud out or servicing).
On another note though, if the plate has done a bit of work and has a ding in it, leave it on. From experience, it is very difficult to straighten, and re-fit.
Experience taken from a Mantec plate for a Defender, but I would imagine could be similar for the D3. Why is the fear of long words called hippopotomonstrosesquippedaliophobia?
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19th Jan 2008 1:49 am |
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stapldm
Member Since: 11 Sep 2006
Location: Swine Town
Posts: 2330
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robsmith wrote:And the larger ones "off-road" height
Sigh, there's another reason I need to be able to just select super extended Dr. Ian Malcolm:
"Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should."
Transgenic tomato anyone?
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19th Jan 2008 11:30 am |
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j,moore
Member Since: 26 Nov 2007
Location: out on the piste,
Posts: 139
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heres a tip for such things, use stainless bolts. they last forever and are stronger than mild steel ones. i do and never have any problems. hope this helps
regards, jim.
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22nd Jan 2008 5:39 pm |
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AndrewS
Tarquin of the Desert
Member Since: 06 May 2005
Location: Y...... because I can
Posts: 10442
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j,moore wrote:heres a tip for such things, use stainless bolts. they last forever
As long as they don't 'Lock up' Stainless is not as forgiving as Mild Steel when they lock you will never undo them
A smear of copper slip will work wonders In the Beginning there was nothing, which exploded.
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22nd Jan 2008 6:55 pm |
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MrH
Member Since: 08 Aug 2007
Location: lost in the forest
Posts: 7754
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AndrewS wrote:A smear of copper slip will work wonders
Yup - it's a shame the car manufactueres as a whole don't use it more.
I used a standard house brick to support the weight of the plate when fitting/removing it. LRs are a fond memory, apart from the maintenance.
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22nd Jan 2008 7:11 pm |
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