Member Since: 25 Mar 2024
Location: Limpopo
Posts: 13
OK. So my 2 cents worth is that it is shifter related and not exactly gearbox itself. From easy and cheap to difficult and expensive I would check on the following:
Battery new and all Earth connections. Most important to clean and tighten 2 Earth connectors behind the right hand driving light on the fender panel. When replacing correct battery register new battery with the vehicle using the menu on the diagnostic tool.
Steel cable connections under the shifter handle and on the shift arm right hand side of transmission. Is the indicator on the display showing the right gear everytime you shift with ignition on/engine off?
Unplug all cable shoes in the shifter console and use electric cleaner or brake cleaner to deoxidise and clean all electric connections and potentiometers/sensors.
Fuse box and voltage drop test.
Renew transmission oil, filter and the 5 seals between mechatronic and actual gearbox (4 tubes 1 case)
Replace all solenoids on the mechatronic. (ca.400BP)
As your transmission seems to work fine while driving it must be shifter position sensor or pressure related.
4th Jul 2024 9:23 am
GBL78
Member Since: 03 May 2024
Location: Shrewsbury
Posts: 11
Thanks Philip,
Does the ECU definitely take electrical position information from the gear stick position? (I would have assumed it only reads from the mechatronic/lever position.. )
But if it does use the shifter position, then it’s worth investigating. It could explain “shifter not in park” problem.
Whilst operating normally the gear requested and gear obtained are correct.
Regards
Greg
5th Jul 2024 10:04 am
philipLR4
Member Since: 25 Mar 2024
Location: Limpopo
Posts: 13
Well, this is all so interesting and fun to figure the way out of the labyrinth. But i believe that if the shifter handle to cable to shifter arm to slider in the mechatronic is misaligned or gets a wrong reading due to dirt or damage the transmission throws this fault and refuses to work properly although "mechanically" it is actually fine. Next level would be one of the solenoids being damaged or clogged from bad and dirty fluid. i did follow those routes and my transmission is now almost trouble free. every now and then it has a hick-up but switching ignition off and on usually clears it at least to the level were the car drives fine and then back home i quickly clear the fault code. This means to me that we are on the right track. I even heard about a faulty interior light causing this. CRAZY Will keep you updated. Good luck
6th Jul 2024 9:29 am
Marques.a
Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Belo Horizonte
Posts: 12
Hi Greg,
I had exactly the same codes and I managed to fix it by adjusting a little slack in the steel cable as follows:
1 - Mark the original adjustment position on the steel cable with paint
2 - Loosen the screw on top of the rod so as not to force the transom (red arrow)
3 - Then loosen the screw that adjusts the steel cable (yellow arrow)
4 - With the rod disconnected from the steel cable, manually put it in park, with the rod fitted to the transom.
5 - Turn on the car and check if it is in park.
6 - Now with the rod connected to the steel cable in the position to adjust, push the steel cable back and the lever forward. It will move a few millimeters from its original position.
7 - Tighten the respective screws with 12Nm. Hold the rod with pliers so as not to bend the steel cable and not to force the transom
"Voilà" the errors are gone!
5th Aug 2024 12:50 am
Marques.a
Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Belo Horizonte
Posts: 12
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5th Aug 2024 12:53 am
00beyoung
Member Since: 11 Sep 2024
Location: Frodsham
Posts: 2
Hi Greg,
Did you ever get to the bottom of this fault?
11th Sep 2024 2:29 pm
philipLR4
Member Since: 25 Mar 2024
Location: Limpopo
Posts: 13
Marques.a wrote:
Hi Greg,
I had exactly the same codes and I managed to fix it by adjusting a little slack in the steel cable as follows:
1 - Mark the original adjustment position on the steel cable with paint
2 - Loosen the screw on top of the rod so as not to force the transom (red arrow)
3 - Then loosen the screw that adjusts the steel cable (yellow arrow)
4 - With the rod disconnected from the steel cable, manually put it in park, with the rod fitted to the transom.
5 - Turn on the car and check if it is in park.
6 - Now with the rod connected to the steel cable in the position to adjust, push the steel cable back and the lever forward. It will move a few millimeters from its original position.
7 - Tighten the respective screws with 12Nm. Hold the rod with pliers so as not to bend the steel cable and not to force the transom
"Voilà" the errors are gone!
Thank you Marques.a did that and my occasional "klonck" and transmission failure message is also gone.
24th Sep 2024 2:02 pm
GBL78
Member Since: 03 May 2024
Location: Shrewsbury
Posts: 11
Hi,
Sorry, I have not replied recently.
No, the problem is not fixed. It spent 2 weeks at a “specialist” in Brighton, they thought they had fixed it… but only because they never ran the car long enough for it to fail. As soon as I did so, it had the same issue.
This did show that the problem is temperature related which had never occurred to me before. It’s fine when it’s cool and transmission oil is below 60. Around that temperature it will consistently fail.
I did change the gear selector, a good call on this thread. It was a 20 minute job, using a secondhand part. However it did not fix the problem.
Another garage has said it’s probably TCM, which needs to be a new part at around 2k, which is around 1/2 the cars worth.
I will have a look through other replies!
Thanks
Greg
9th Oct 2024 2:08 pm
00beyoung
Member Since: 11 Sep 2024
Location: Frodsham
Posts: 2
That’s a shame. I am having the same fault.
My TCM was replaced with a new one from Landrover by the previous owner and coded in. To no avail. A Landrover specialist in the north had it a few weeks and even changed the transfer box. Still no luck.
I found battery health to be 15% so I replaced that first. Alternator output under full load was under 14v, replaced alternator. Earth strap from engine, to body, to chassis was extremely corroded, replaced, all no luck.
Multiple other jobs, canbus had voltage in sleep, traced to BCM, found slight corrosion. New one cloned and fitted, still the same:
Found 2 wires high resistance from the selector to the TCM which I am now investigating and tracing.
Now retired Landrover gearbox and electrical specialist at Gaydon said to check that the garage that did the TCM replacement filled the oil correctly and topped up after it was ran through at temp as low oil could cause it. This is next on the to do list tomorrow.
SJ1905 apparently is a joint according to the wiring diagram that I would like to check and resistance test but location is not on the schematics or component location drawings.
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