Member Since: 24 Nov 2017
Location: Pontypool
Posts: 195
And final update for now, it has developed a vibration, its intermittent, usually happens above 40mph and feels like you are going over a cattle grid at speed. Have had the rear drums off and checked, cleaned and adjusted the handbrake shoes. While I was in there discovered 1 of the rear calipers is sticking so ordered 2 new ones. Not driven far since doing the handbrake stuff so don't know if its sorted yet
13th Oct 2018 11:54 pm
indy4x
Member Since: 24 Nov 2017
Location: Pontypool
Posts: 195
Also been giving some thought to the height adjustments I carried out, my logic is telling me while I can get it sitting level the only way to tell for sure you have all 4 corners correct would be to use corner weight gauge?
Anyone got any thoughts?
13th Oct 2018 11:56 pm
LeighW D3 Decade
Member Since: 31 Jan 2006
Location: Brisbane, AUS
Posts: 920
indy4x I'm not positive but you might be needing a height gauge instead. I don't have the exact figures but a search will tell you the height of midpoint of hub to underside of plastic wheel arch for each end.
HTH, LeighLeighW
The old girl is on her third engine...
* first ran a bearing (design failure in original engine)
* second had a failure of the water outlet on top of the engine (pls check yours)
14th Oct 2018 6:52 am
indy4x
Member Since: 24 Nov 2017
Location: Pontypool
Posts: 195
Leigh, I used a tape measure to go from wheel centre to bottom of the wheel arch which is how most peeps seen to do it however you have no way of knowing if diagonally opposite wheels are placing the same weight on the road as the opposing diagonally opposing wheels?
14th Oct 2018 9:30 am
indy4x
Member Since: 24 Nov 2017
Location: Pontypool
Posts: 195
Been trying to think of another way do describe my thinking and struggling a little but this is take 2
If OSR and NSF are set too high compared to NSR and OSF then the car would probably still sit level and at the correct height as they have balanced each other out however the car is exerting more force onto the ground vIa the OSR and NSF wheels
14th Oct 2018 9:37 am
Bardley
Member Since: 02 May 2018
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 478
Your vibration above 40 could well be a gearbox issue.
Have a read of a few posts, and maybe consider an ATF change, or add two tubes
of DrTranny. Good results from both, and may just buy you more time.2011 MY D4 HSE
Previously 2001 D2 TD5, 1996 D1 300Tdi, 1985 90 2.2 petrol.
Bikes! KTM, BMW, British, Classics and others.
14th Oct 2018 9:57 am
indy4x
Member Since: 24 Nov 2017
Location: Pontypool
Posts: 195
Bardley, worth thinking about although I did do a double flush and pan/filter change a few weeks back, didn't use Dr Tranny tho.
I do feel it is related to rear brakes, when it's happening it is definitely worse when the brakes are applied
14th Oct 2018 12:57 pm
paulf
Member Since: 23 Sep 2017
Location: Rutland
Posts: 91
I had cattle gridding on mine earlier this year. I’ve had a new TC, propshaft, brake calipers, drop links etc. It was finally found to be the n/s front driveshaft. The CV boot was split and when I took the driveshaft off to change the boot, the whole bearing fell apart! I couldn’t believe it had been driving the way it was. It sorted the cattle gridding though! Worth a look there if you haven’t already.Discovery 4 XXV
BMW 530d M Sport plus
BMW R1200GS Adventure
Aprilia RSV1000 Tuono
14th Oct 2018 4:26 pm
indy4x
Member Since: 24 Nov 2017
Location: Pontypool
Posts: 195
That's interesting, it was something I had considered, either that or propshaft, was yours intermittent?
Have had the NSF driveshaft off to replace the CV gaite r and that was ok but obviously there are 3 more to check
New rear calipers should arrive tomorrow, NSR is definitely sticking so will get them swapped 1st and try again
14th Oct 2018 11:05 pm
kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6774
Stuck caliper can cause the symptoms you described - the vibration I mean. I had the front left piston rusted and stuck last spring.
15th Oct 2018 5:33 am
indy4x
Member Since: 24 Nov 2017
Location: Pontypool
Posts: 195
Yesterday the replacement rear calipers and brake pads arrived, duly fitted but no time to test. While I was otherwise occupied with my D1 I left the IID tool updating the Bluetooth ECU.
Short drive to work and back today was uneventful and I took it back out again tonight for a longer drive and still no vibration. Will give it a couple of days as it can be intermittent before relaxing that yet another issue is sorted and hopefully get some time in on the D1 for a change
16th Oct 2018 10:07 pm
indy4x
Member Since: 24 Nov 2017
Location: Pontypool
Posts: 195
Well its been 2 days since I replaced the rear calipers and pads, still no vibration so looking promising
Thanks to all for their input, much appreciated
17th Oct 2018 10:00 pm
indy4x
Member Since: 24 Nov 2017
Location: Pontypool
Posts: 195
Quick update, 6 days on and still no vibration so that looks like another job ticked off the list
Broke out the IID tool today and flashed the BCM, Instrument pack and suspension
Now have clock on the dash and a telltale for the lights
Anyone know if you can fit the later D3 clocks that have the correct overlay for the telltale for the lights and does it hae any pitfalls?
21st Oct 2018 6:11 pm
kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6774
Flash the IPC with the “MY07+pre MY07“ software load and the light will vanish - assuming you’re talking about the red light.
21st Oct 2018 6:13 pm
indy4x
Member Since: 24 Nov 2017
Location: Pontypool
Posts: 195
I flashed it for 2 reasons
1. I want the teltale for the lights, its one of the things that bug me
2. I want the clock on the dash, not having it there is another thing that bugged me
I can live with the red telltale with FBH symbol for the lights just curious if anyone had either tried to change the overlay or swapped the clocks
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