Member Since: 21 Oct 2009
Location: Lucerne
Posts: 73
Jump starting with Traxide
I'm planning to move my Traxide kit from the D3 to the D4 once it's arrived, I already wrote to Tim with a few questions but there's one more thing I'd rather pester you guys with:
Twice I had to jump start my D3 from the aux battery, and twice I had to annoyingly fiddle with the jump start lead
I know that there are other systems around which would allow the jump start thing at the press of a button, but I don't want to have those ghastly display in my car, so I'm happy with opening the bonnet every once in a while. What I am asking is two things:
Can I simply put a lead and a switch between the two batteries' positive? So jump starting could be done by simply connecting them?
And do I have to disconnect the Traxide system while jump starting? So far I did this, but I was wondering whether it's necessary.
If above questions speak for my ingnorance in things electric, so be it.
Cheerio,
Thorsten
22nd Feb 2013 10:36 am
SpiderBaby D3 Decade
Member Since: 21 Sep 2007
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 1412
Wiggs did a nice write up on just this but I can't find his post.....
He basically got an Anderson connector (as fitted to the Traxide), a short length of battery cable and a battery terminal.
The cable is left fitted and he simply disconnects the Traxide feed from the main battery to the controller and plugs the new cable into the Traxide main battery feed.
Worth a search for the post as his pictures are better than my words....
I've all the bits to allow me to do the same but I can't find the correct Anderson connector to mate with the original Traxide ones.I see no ships........
22nd Feb 2013 10:45 am
Miesmacher
Member Since: 21 Oct 2009
Location: Lucerne
Posts: 73
Cool , so this would be the way to go. Now I have to find those connectors, I hope they are universal and not limited in their availabiiity to the English-speaking peoples...
I had this setup on my car and it was great but I later went for an old solenoid and a push button that saves my going in to the bonnet, as I do a lot of testing on my car when we get software upgrades it was getting a pain to keep having to join the wires.
But for your use it would be ideal.. Just make sure you get the right size of Anderson.
Flack
22nd Feb 2013 11:09 am
Miesmacher
Member Since: 21 Oct 2009
Location: Lucerne
Posts: 73
Member Since: 17 Jan 2010
Location: South West Aus
Posts: 79
I had thought of doing something along the same lines when I recently was having battery troubles. An auto electrician recommended a permanent cable with a battery isolator switch in line. They come in all shapes and sizes but most can handle 200 amps or more. That said I did not do it as a new battery was fitted by the dealer and all is good now
Edit: I was going to fit the switch (and probably still will) just between the two batteries, so opening the bonnet would be required.
Last edited by kenny on 22nd Feb 2013 11:33 am. Edited 1 time in total
22nd Feb 2013 11:29 am
SpiderBaby D3 Decade
Member Since: 21 Sep 2007
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 1412
That's the post!
If you find a source of Anderson connector which marries up with the original type that Tim of Traxide fits to his system please let me know.I see no ships........
22nd Feb 2013 11:30 am
Miesmacher
Member Since: 21 Oct 2009
Location: Lucerne
Posts: 73
I PM'd wiggs in the hope that he might help...
22nd Feb 2013 11:35 am
wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372
you need
anderson power pole 75amp ...either red or black ( they both connect to each other )G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
22nd Feb 2013 12:12 pm
Miesmacher
Member Since: 21 Oct 2009
Location: Lucerne
Posts: 73
Well, I googled a bit - and getting those Powerplugs is difficult enough, but a crimp tool for EUR 600 might be overkill as well. Maybe I'll go back to kenny's suggestion...
22nd Feb 2013 12:20 pm
Miesmacher
Member Since: 21 Oct 2009
Location: Lucerne
Posts: 73
Oh, and almost forgot: Thanks, wiggs!
22nd Feb 2013 12:21 pm
wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372
£1.99 on ebay ....you can solder the wire if you havent got a crimper ....or even use a vice to crimp itG4 Gone ...but not forgotten
22nd Feb 2013 12:26 pm
Miesmacher
Member Since: 21 Oct 2009
Location: Lucerne
Posts: 73
Thanks - I'll watch out on ebay.
Concerning soldering - no option, never learned - vice, now that might be an option...
Just in case I go the battery switch rout, any ideas on whether one would need to disconnect the Traxide box for jump starting?
22nd Feb 2013 12:28 pm
Miesmacher
Member Since: 21 Oct 2009
Location: Lucerne
Posts: 73
Concerning "disconnect the Traxide box for jump starting":
with the ignition key removed, simply take the covers off both battery compartments and connect a single jumper lead to both battery’s positive terminals, put your key in and turn the ignition on.
There is no need to connect the negative terminals as they are both permanently connected to earth.
He says nothing about disconnecting the Anderson Connector...
Cheerio,
Thorsten
22nd Feb 2013 12:36 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
I've soldered them with good results.
I clamped the terminal upright and with a gas torch (yes I nicked the wife's kitchen one as it perfect for this sort of thing) heated it and filled it 1/2 to 2/3rds full with solder and then pushed the wire into the puddle.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
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