Member Since: 14 Nov 2009
Location: Probably still in work!
Posts: 303
Is this the Transfer Box?
Bit of a newbie question, I have never done much maintenance work on a 4x4 before! My D3 is coming up to the point where I would like to change the transfer box oil and I am wondering whether it is a job I can tackle myself. I have just spent two hours searching every thread on the forum, and whilst there is much discussion about doing this at around 75k miles and some good instructions, I couldnt see a picture. I am not sure if this is the gearbox or the transfer box!. If it is the transfer box then both the filler (not level!) plug and drain plug look reasonably accessible, I have ringed what I think they must be in red in the photo, which was taken from under the nearside of the vehicle, so the left of the photo is towards the front of the car. Is this the transfer box?
Many thanks for any help!
28th Feb 2010 1:08 pm
gtrhaggart
Member Since: 15 Nov 2009
Location: cambs
Posts: 87
That looks brand new under there! You need pop its cherry with some good mud Previously:
2005 D3 2.7 TDV6 S
1984 90 2.25 Petrol CSW
1992 90 200TDi Hard Top
1995 Discovery ES 300TDi
2003 90 TD5 Truck Cab
28th Feb 2010 4:32 pm
pagoda
Member Since: 13 Aug 2009
Location: Not London Anymore (or the US for that matter)
Posts: 1923
As with most things about Land Rover, there may be some "secrets" re even to changing the transfer case oil.
I find that with a Land Rover, the way it works on other vehicles is rarely the way it is supposed to be done.
It seems that whenever aluminum is in the mix somewhere, procedures just change.
Here is a cut away of a transfer case jpg that is in my gallery. To me, the cut away looks like a run of the 4x4 New Process transfer case that is on all USA Chevs, Dodges, and Fords - but I bet it is not.
There is also what I think is a very nice "historical" picture of a Series I unit in the same gallery section.
2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
Last edited by bbyer on 28th Feb 2010 6:46 pm. Edited 1 time in total
Park the vehicle in a "level" position - ideally on a 4-post ramp. Don't drain it immediately after having driven the vehicle for any distance it warms up very quickly and when it's still hot otherwise you could get covered in hot oil
Drain it via the bottom plug you circled in your picture, and fill via the one on the back - fill until level with that plug hole and you should have the right amount. be careful not to over-fill.
28th Feb 2010 6:28 pm
Phil1644
Member Since: 14 Nov 2009
Location: Probably still in work!
Posts: 303
Thanks for all the advice! I only bought the car in December off 1 previous lady owner, it doesnt look as though it has ever been off road, I will be using it mainly to tow the caravan, we use a Focus TDCi as day to day transport (shame!). I have just ordered a Clarke Oil Suction Gun off the Machine Mart website (and a conventional Clarke 500ml oil can just in case) so am guessing that between them I should be able to refill the box with fresh oil once I have drained it. I have released the drain & fill plugs slightly with a Torx socket just to check I can undo them. Will take a trip to the dealers soon and buy the special oil. All we need then is for the weather to warm up 'cos its too bl dy freezing in the garage at the moment!
28th Feb 2010 6:44 pm
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
make sure you undo the fill plug BEFORE you drain.
that way if you cant get the fill plug undone you are not stuck with an empty transfer box - although you shouldnt have that problem - is too shiny to have seized the plug Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
Remove the fill oil plug first - one of the secrets!
I enjoyed that post - yes, I suppose the assurance that you can get the new oil in is a good idea before you drain the old oil out of the transfer case.
I guess however that thinking does not exactly apply to the new LR4 petrol engine. You have to figure out how to get the old oil out before you pour in new - now that is different - progress I think?
How do you get the old engine oil out - invert vehicle?2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
28th Feb 2010 7:14 pm
kernowexpeditionaryforce
Member Since: 15 Jan 2009
Location: Kernow
Posts: 329
suction pump, as used in the marine world for years
28th Feb 2010 7:24 pm
gtrhaggart
Member Since: 15 Nov 2009
Location: cambs
Posts: 87
I had to buy a suction pump to service smart cars, they think sump plugs are not needed as well.
With no oil drain plug, where does one insert the suction whatever, (or is there a new special suction hole), and then how does one know that all or even worse, MOST of the oil has been sucked out?
To make it more interesting, I gather these corner quick oil change places, and maybe even the LR Dealer, tend to meter oil in rather than pour oil from a container.
As such, one really does not know how much oil is really going in, and now with no dip stick, I presume one has to start the engine to kind of find out where the oil level is - electronically - if you can trust that to work flawlessly for the next 10 years or so!
This to me sounds like a prescription for an overfilled engine sump.
I understand that for the first 10 seconds, as oil does not compress very well, that can be worse than no oil. It sounds to me like the corner quick oil change place may not the place to take an LR4 then, and Dealers are going to get an education as well as Owners.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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dy freezing in the garage at the moment!
