Member Since: 24 Sep 2018
Location: Manchester
Posts: 26
Take your engine cover off (replace the oil cap) to access the pipes easier. At the left of centre on bulk head you will see 2 pipes exiting the cabin that change from rubber to aluminium to rubber to aluminium. They make there way over the left side of the top of the engine, then run down to the radiator area. Clamp both pipes and then disconnect from the bulk head.
Proceed with sasdiscos instructions.
22nd Dec 2019 12:44 pm
Dboss
Member Since: 12 Jan 2015
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 52
thanks all for helpful info
will give these things a try and get back to you on resultsLoving my D4 HSE -MY10......!!!!
22nd Dec 2019 2:00 pm
Dboss
Member Since: 12 Jan 2015
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 52
ok so still got heating problems.
My Indy is currently scratching his head.
All blender motors are working fine (checked with borescope).
Matrix has been flushed and is clean (checked with borescope)
Adequate fluids in the system
There was not as much fluid in the matrix as would be expected when removing the pipes.
When selecting aircon - nice and cold from all dash vents,
Turning heat up to Hi, only hot air coming through drivers vents (only less cool from passenger vents)
Suspecting waterpump, but if that had failed would assume would not get heat from drivers side.
Any helps appreciated....Loving my D4 HSE -MY10......!!!!
11th Jan 2020 8:38 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20842
The matrix cannot be flushed. It needs replacing
The sediment gathers in the far end of the matrix. The water flushing the matrix takes the path of least resistance through the matrix, and does not clear out the sediment
Member Since: 24 Sep 2018
Location: Manchester
Posts: 26
I also flushed my matrix last week and hardly any debris/gunk came out and it made no difference to the problem.
After I had flushed it and found the problem remained, I had a thought that maybe the water was just going into the 1st quarter of the matrix and straight back out again, which would explain why it was clean.
After having another look online, I found a picture of a heater matrix taken from a Disco/RR sport where he cut the matrix up and 3/4 of it is completely blocked with gunk. (Picture attached)
I feel it must be so blocked with 10 years of crap that no amount of flushing will shift it.
I have bought a new matrix, which I will replace soon. I’ll let you know the results. I will also do a detailed walk through.
Another member on here with the same issue replaced his recently and now has wonderful heat. So much so he has to turn it down I have lived with this for 2 years, so having to turn the heat down is actually a fantasy of mine
Here’s a link to the other thread, with a detailed walkthrough.
Last edited by caravangler on 11th Jan 2020 9:40 pm. Edited 1 time in total
11th Jan 2020 9:11 pm
caravangler
Member Since: 24 Sep 2018
Location: Manchester
Posts: 26
Disco_Mikey wrote:
The matrix cannot be flushed. It needs replacing
The sediment gathers in the far end of the matrix. The water flushing the matrix takes the path of least resistance through the matrix, and does not clear out the sediment
sasdiscos Flushed his with success, so I think it must depend on how blocked the matrix is. Which would depend on how often your car had a coolant change I guess.
Though your description is exactly what I thought may be happening. Clearly showed in the photo.
Last edited by caravangler on 11th Jan 2020 9:36 pm. Edited 1 time in total
11th Jan 2020 9:19 pm
caravangler
Member Since: 24 Sep 2018
Location: Manchester
Posts: 26
He lined his footwell and caught the coolant from the matrix in a bucket.
This isn’t necessary.
Instead of disconnecting the coolant pipes in the engine bay at the bulk head, follow them over the engine, where the the aluminium pipe turns to rubber. Disconnect here and attach hoses to both coolant pipes. This way you can blow all the coolant out of the matrix before you start to replace it.
I bought a couple of male - male washing machine waste hose connectors from screwfix, which fit perfectly into the coolant hoses, then attached a 2 meter length of garden hose to each one.
Once you have replaced the matrix, disconnect both the garden hoses and re fill the matrix with coolant. This will stop any air locks forming in the matrix.
I did this with a funnel, pouring directly into the coolant pipe till it brimmed. Reconnect the garden hose on the side you have been filling and gently blow the coolant through the matrix till you see it coming out of the other coolant pipe.
Reconnect this one, then top up the remaining pipe to the brim before reconnecting.
Run the car till at full temperature (hopefully you will have Mach 1 heating!) then top up the coolant if needed at the reservoir.
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I have lived with this for 2 years, so having to turn the heat down is actually a fantasy of mine 
