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Dave InOz
Member Since: 28 Jun 2016
Location: NSW
Posts: 37
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| Hard-core Off-road setup advice needed |
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I have recently bought a Disco 3 and want to set it up for serious off road work. As a mad trout fisho I have been trekking the high country tracks for years so I’m not a stranger to the hard stuff using chains and winching to get in and out of the good spots. After migrating from other brands of 4x4s, I specifically want to know about the disco setups.
So what do the experts think about the following questions :
Tyres.
There will be mud tyres going on a spare set of rims regardless that will go on when I go for a trip. I have to drive around 400ks on the black stuff to get where I go and 400 back.
So, Is it worth going to the hassle (drive line strain, MPG, speedo out) of putting on a set of 275/65/18 to gain 20mm of clearance ? I figger without that diff housing hanging down under the car it probably worth only putting height sensor rods in it ?
Diff Locks
Is there any advantage ? if the Terrain Management System is working isn’t it doing exactly what locking diffs do ?
Interested to know what everyone thinks as I'm about to spend some money.
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 9th Sep 2016 9:10 am |
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grzesiul
Member Since: 11 May 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 6398
  
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D3 will not survive that  too posh
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| 9th Sep 2016 9:51 am |
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ST53VEN
Member Since: 18 Dec 2012
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 263
 
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If its hardcore then fit a set of 275/70/R18.
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| 9th Sep 2016 10:38 am |
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John P
Member Since: 12 Aug 2011
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 1282
  
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grzesiul wrote:D3 will not survive that too posh
I agree with the above post, if you are really looking to go “Hard-Core” off-road.
If I knew what I now know about Land Rovers, I would have never bought the D3 for our off road work. We twisted the chassis on my last 4x4, so I selected the D3 as I thought Land Rovers were built for off road. How wrong was I…. never the less I am where I am now. (After a lot of investment) At least I’m getting experience in fixing the D3. It’s not a point of how to fix the issues, it’s a point of how quickly I can do it, as I’ve done them before. On the plus side, the bolts don’t get time to seize so never have to cut them off.
Suspension
I’ve rebuilt my suspension 3 times, all bushes and ball joints since I got the D3 in Jan 2011. I rebuilt it with standard bushes, which lasted about 2 years, then replaced that with Orange PolyBushes, which lasted one year. I have since replaced those with Superpro, and these appear to be holding out very well. I have to change the rear lower ball joints about once a year, as these just don’t cope well with the weight we have to carry on our excursions, and take a real pounding.
Tyres/Rims/Brakes
I have the Compomotive PD1881 with Cooper STT 275/65/18 fitted, with the Brembo 4 pot calipers. I also have the Johnson Rods fitted, and the extra height does come handy. Especially when doing river crossings and you don’t see those large rocks lurking beneath. I had the standard Scorpions fitted when I got the car, and punctured 2 of them on the first time I went off road. I replaced these with General Grabbers AT, which were terrible in the mud, so replaced them with Duratracs. I managed to damage all the side walls, and punctured 2 of these through the side walls. I changed these for Cooper STT’s, and as these are LT tyres are holding up well. (Better sidewalls) Car feels nice and sure-footed off road.
Underbody Protection
I’ve got a full D44 underbody protection, which bolts to the D44 winch bumper. Winch fitted as well. This makes the front end extremely strong. The D44 bumper has the extra recovery points, which makes recovering the vehicle so much easier and safer.
I’ve seen the ARB diff air lockers. But I’ve yet to get into a situation that the D3 cannot get out of with the standard drive line setup. But what does worry me, is that I’m totally reliant on the technology. As with the Air Lockers, you can manually control them. I’ve already been in a very precarious position with the D3 in fully extended mode on rocks, and got a suspension failure. The D3 when straight down onto the bump stops, well actually it didn’t get there as it beached itself on the rocks. Thank fully after a few cycles of the ignition the error cleared and I was able to drive out.
I always carry my MSV-2, and a bunch of tools with me in case something goes wrong. My motto is “Prepare for the worst, and hope for the best.”
If you are going to use your D3 for “Hard-Core” off road, you’ll need a good budget for aftermarket protection, and the fixing the suspension.
Hope that gives you a little insight.
Regards
John
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| 9th Sep 2016 11:07 am |
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garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1130
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Get a set of 17" rims - LR Disco rims are hard to find so go BMW X5 rims but you will need to change wheel nuts. 17" rims are better offroad and provide a bigger range of muddies at a better price.
Put LLAMs on to allow you to better control your height settings and get away from the 50kph restriction when at offroad height. A GOE suspension inflation kit might also come in handle if there is a major suspension issue.
Bull bar and winch up the front and maybe armour underneath - including the air compressor.
I would stay with the standard traction control (dont forget to turn DSC off when offroad) unless you find it inadequate - then fit an ARB locker but I don't think you will need it.
Look at a long range tank and rear wheel carrier but only if you find you really need them - jerries in the back will suffice for the high country.
Oh for the high country - get a snorkel not an RAI and carry a fording blind.
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| 9th Sep 2016 1:13 pm |
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grzesiul
Member Since: 11 May 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 6398
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there is an option of slightly bulletproofing D3 and chucking some good coil overs unless you can purchase coil suspended one
Matzker might still offer pretty cool kit for raising the D3 with over 2" but I have used KingSpring set and had no issues suspension wise in 6 years (apart from replacing lower arms and all)
I would also choose auto box as in tricky off-road conditions manual it tends to burn clutches pretty well and shorten their life
for hard core the idea should be the simpler the better I think
G
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| 9th Sep 2016 2:14 pm |
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Dave InOz
Member Since: 28 Jun 2016
Location: NSW
Posts: 37
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Hey great advice from everyone,
Garrycol, the rims is a really good option but what wheel nuts do you use ? after having a brief look at them it seems BMW use a screw in lug.
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| 10th Sep 2016 4:23 am |
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garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1130
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Dont hold me to it but I think I got these for mine.
http://www.brandsport.com/grla-68148.html
If you use the original LR nuts there is not enough threads on the nut to be safe so different nuts are needed.
These are the rims I have and got 4 for $180 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BMW-X5-Genuine-...SwOdpXyRj9 they only seem to sell is sets of 4 rather than 5.
I still have the original Michelin HTs on them and driven on these and they are fine but like you I am going to put muddies on. As I didn't get a 5th wheel I will just use my 18" as a spare and get the 17" muddies to match the rolling diameter so if needed the 18 can be used as a spare. If I subsequently want to get carry more spares (a good idea) then it will be cost effective to get more rims.
Garry
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| 10th Sep 2016 7:05 am |
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Dave InOz
Member Since: 28 Jun 2016
Location: NSW
Posts: 37
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I have been doing more investigating and the 17in option means I could get BF goodrich KM2 in 265/70/17 which would be perfect. Also till the end of the month there is a promo on a set of 4 for an free ARB air compressor valued at $377 which would take care of another thing off the list of mods to do.
That size tyre is 5.2% bigger or 39mm Dia but the BMW rim is 10mm offset negative to the LR one so 10mm more inner clearance which is great because it means I can still fit chains when I need to. Thanks so much for putting me on to this.
Dave
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| 10th Sep 2016 10:52 pm |
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garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1130
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If going for much larger tyres - you may need to bend flat some of the seams in the the rear wheel arches (also if you have rear A/C you may have issues) and maybe trim some of the plastic trim bits.
Also check the wheels can still turn if you go down to the bump stops because if the system does have a dummy spit when you are out it it goes to the bump stops you may have to drive out with about 140mm ground clearance and no suspension. If the big tyres will not turn in the wheel arches then you will be going no where.
The GOE emergency inflation kit (on my wish list) can help here using that new ARB air compressor you are going to get with your tyres - they do not have the pressure to get you right up to super extended but at least high enough to drive out and home.
Garry
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| 11th Sep 2016 3:26 am |
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grzesiul
Member Since: 11 May 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 6398
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d3 is pretty capable in mud even on 19" wrangler mtrs unles you planning on "sinking" in muc
done some deep mud in Romania and never got stuck
flat "belly" protection like d44 or Prospeeds migh help as well not to catch to much of it and slide over
G
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| 11th Sep 2016 7:09 am |
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Dave InOz
Member Since: 28 Jun 2016
Location: NSW
Posts: 37
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I had a P38 a few years ago that decided to have a turn on the highway and put me on the bump stops. I just pulled into an Enzed in the next town and they fitted T pieces to my airlines so I could inflate each bag seperatly and charged me $60, problem permenently solved.
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| 11th Sep 2016 7:20 am |
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biskit
Member Since: 23 Dec 2009
Location: in my Mancave.
Posts: 1376
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Are BMW wheels strong enough rated for a Disco??!! Mantec sump guard.
Prospeed tree slider/steps.
Flack duel battery system.
18"Compomotive/AT3 tyres
Brembo 4pot front brakes
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| 11th Sep 2016 7:35 am |
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Dave InOz
Member Since: 28 Jun 2016
Location: NSW
Posts: 37
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I have had a look at the D44 stuff and I'm going to hold off on that for a while (unless I feel I ultimately need it, which I doubt). There is something far worse that can happen than a few knocks underneath with those things and that's getting stuck in deep mud and have a massive suction effect to the plates where the only thing that will ever break that effect is a tractor or bulldozer. Seen it happen before with cars stuck for days and even three 4x4s hoked together cant budge them. We have more clay down here and it is sticky to say the least.
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| 11th Sep 2016 7:35 am |
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rsp
Member Since: 11 Jan 2006
Location: Goulburn, NSW
Posts: 161
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The other item I would suggest could be useful is the IIDtool as, among other useful things such as reading error codes and resetting ECUs, you can override the suspension settings, as long as the compressor is working and you do not have a leak.
If you are interested, I just happen to have a set of 17" off Gmax rims that I used with Cooper STTs, that I no longer need. There should be some pictures of the wheels on the forum but can send more. I have been meaning to advertise them but have not around to it.
I have the Rijidij spare wheel carrier fitted, as I had been planning to fit an aux tank, but put it on hold. I am pretty pleased with it, but makes opening the tailgate harder and knocks out the proximity sensors. It does allow me to carry another spare in the normal spot Disco 3 TDV6 HSE, Auto, White, Rear Diff Lock. ARB BB, Traxide DBS, GME TX3540S, Safari Snorkel, IIDTool-BT, Doran TPMS, Rijidij Spare Wheel Carrier, Two side by side Drifta drawers, cargo barrier and drop down fridge slide, ARB 47l Fridge, Yokohama A/Ts and out of date 17" Cooper STTs.
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| 15th Sep 2016 11:00 pm |
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