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aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2463
  
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I would check that the cables are still attached to the shoes adjust them again and see what happens. Andrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
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 6th Apr 2021 8:45 pm |
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PotatoOfDestiny
Member Since: 04 Jan 2021
Location: Preston
Posts: 10
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I'm working away from home at the moment, but as soon as I'm home I'll break out the toolbox and report back! Thank you!
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| 6th Apr 2021 8:51 pm |
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TomSallis79
Member Since: 02 Jan 2022
Location: Surrey
Posts: 9
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I seem to have a unique problem - my EPB won’t engage. When I try to apply it, it makes a horrendous squealing noise and I get a fault light flashing up. It’s automatic so I’ve just been using the gearbox to park and hold it. I’ve got the full AA cover and it’s booked into a garage tomorrow but wondering if anyone has any experience with this? The AA won’t cover disc being adjusted etc so would like to prepare myself for what cost I may be in for!
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| 4th Jan 2022 10:13 am |
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cfcjim
Member Since: 22 Jun 2010
Location: Munich
Posts: 67
 
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Your problem is not unique.
Search EPB screech or similar there'll be plenty of information for you to research.
Also, it's a good it's a good idea to fill in your profile it makes helping you a lot easier.
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| 4th Jan 2022 11:06 am |
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TomSallis79
Member Since: 02 Jan 2022
Location: Surrey
Posts: 9
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You're right - meant to say a common problem, far from unique!
Hopefully cleaning/adjusting shoes etc.. sorts it but what's ballpark for a replacement EPB module? Seen people say £1-1.5k ballpark with associated work. Does that seem realistic? D3 2.7 TDV6 HSE
Cairns Blue
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| 4th Jan 2022 12:10 pm |
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PotatoOfDestiny
Member Since: 04 Jan 2021
Location: Preston
Posts: 10
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Further to my lack of an update following my issue last year...
I had the same issue, the parking brake would not engage and the horrible noises, flashing yellow ebp light. Unfortunately there is no escaping the fact that this will be a big job.
I decided to tackle it myself, hired a workshop and lift for a day, and set to the car. It took me half a day to get the epb module out, although I am a total novice. When I removed the rear brakes I saw that one of the handbrake cables had disappeared, it had escaped from it's clip and been pulled into the outer casing for the cable, the cable was a write off, thankfully I'd decided to replace those anyway and had new ones on hand.
Once I got the module open, I found that the gears had pulled the mechanism to it's limit and it was jammed solid. I was able to take the module apart (not for the feint of heart!) wind the various bits back into position (there are a few youtube videos out there that cover this), attach the new cables, replace the gears in the motor and get everything back on to the car. This was a full day's work for me, and not quite as much fun as being kicked in the head.
My advice is, you'll save a small fortune if you do it yourself, but only if you are willing to skin your knuckles, swear *a lot*, and have confidence in what you are doing.
I was quoted by a local specialist £1300 to do the job, but that included new rear discs and pads, new handbrake shoes and a new EPB module.
If doing it yourself, I would certainly invest in replacing the handbrake shoes, they are not very expensive (I paid less than £35 for a set of Ferodo shoes), if they have been on the car for a while, I'd also replace the discs and pads too anyway, if you shop around you'll pay less than £100 for those.
The cables are about £150 for a set of Britpart ones or around £300 for genuine, even if your existing ones are salvageable unlike mine, it's peace of mind that you won't be doing the same job again 2 weeks later. Also, definitely replace all the clips, springs, washers etc. for the shoes at the same time, for a few quid, it's daft not to.
If anyone is interested, I'll post a full list of every part I replaced and links etc
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| 4th Jan 2022 6:59 pm |
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miniman8
Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 97
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| Not really related I think |
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I had similar issues a couple of years ago with my epb, I was under the car twice in the space of 3 months unjamming it, it is possible to do it in place but a bit of a mission, once you get it all up & running again I would suggest that ( like I do now) you release the handbrake using the switch, I don’t trust the system that registers your moving.
Just as an aside my daughter has a Renault Grand Scenic which has virtually the same epb unit only difference is rear brakes are applied using a cam pin in the calliper piston, her car is a manual so as soon as you turn the engine off it applies the handbrake, only way I could find to ensure this didn’t happen was to pull emergency release cable, freed up the sticking calliper & then pressed the park brake release & the unit winds itself back & relatches, just wondering if you could do the same on discos?
Tom
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| 14th Feb 2022 11:58 am |
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lottos
Member Since: 01 Jun 2022
Location: California
Posts: 3
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I was wondering if anyone had any ideas. I got an EPB fault (but no screeching, just the normal sounds) not long ago but could disengage the EPB without problems, so I haven't used the EPB in a while. But then recently the red light came on and I have beeps every time the car starts rolling from a stop sign.
I just replaced the shoes and recalibrated. Looks like the shoes were probably seized. I just tried to do the bedding procedure but I got the EPB error again. Even did a "hard reset" but the error returned.
When pulling the parking brake switch, there's no screeching - rather the opposite - it's really "quiet" and sounds really "weak", you can barely hear it.
I was wondering if anyone had any ideas or suggestions before I start taking out the EPB module, which is a big job.
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| 4th Jun 2022 6:15 am |
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lottos
Member Since: 01 Jun 2022
Location: California
Posts: 3
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I started getting the EPB module out -- but I have the HD package and a gas car, so the locking rear diff motor/actuator is blocking the EPB from the front and the gas-car charcoal canister evap filter is blocking access from the rear behind the spare wheel. Looks like I might be able to move the charcoal canister enough to get in from the rear.
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| 6th Jun 2022 7:03 pm |
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lottos
Member Since: 01 Jun 2022
Location: California
Posts: 3
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Since I haven't read this before, the EPB module internals of an X5/X6 E70 E71 E72 seem quite similar to the Disco internals. And in my case the 12v DC actuator motor was a fit - helical gear, teeth, direction/wiring all matched and it's installed now.
Ok, one more update. Maybe some hints for US-spec gasoline V8 owners with HD package:
* as others have said, there's no way to get to it from the front due to the diff's actuator motor,
* you can get the EPB module through the spare tire well, but there's not a lot of space,
* take out spare tire and loosen the charcoal evap container that's in front of the EPB and bring it forward and down a bit so you can reach past it, you'll need to make yourself some space without ripping out lines,
* detach the EPB bracket from the frame and loosen the airlines on top and electrical (?) on the bottom of it, not easy and I broke quite a few clips,
* there's one small bolt on the right of the EPB bracket that holds an L-style bracket which in turn clips fuel (?) and other lines, it's mounted with just one bolt,
* now you can finally wiggle out the EPB bracket and then slowly turn the EPB almost 135 degrees toward you so that you can see what you're doing.
The EPB top/front plastic cover does not come off easy, that adhesive is _firm_, took me almost an hour with the limited space.
I started unjamming the EPB brass "guide" over the rod with a screwdriver and mallet but caused a bunch of damage and eventually made a small tool from one of those blue plastic trim removal prying tools. I cut off some of the "flat edge" to make it more sturdy and cut 45deg groove into the middle so I could lever the keyed brass actuator from multiple angles.
In my case, I tried the usual adjustment of the brake pad tension (even replacing them), and ordered new plastic cogs, but it turns out it was the 12v EPB DC motor in my case. Must have been the carbon brushes - it sort of ran but sounded very "weak" when in the car and even shorted out when I connected to the car battery to test.
After searching for 12v DC motors, I found one that seemed to be a good fit. It's the EPB motor for a BMW X5/X6 E70 E71 E72. If you search ebay for a combination of "X5, X6, EPB, hand brake, motor, actuator" you will probably find them. The BMW EPB generally looks awfully similar to the Discovery's internally on internet pictures, I would not be surprised if the main difference was the housing/mounting.
Thanks everyone for all the tips! This was all so helpful!
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| 25th Jun 2022 12:44 am |
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cam98
Member Since: 26 Sep 2022
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 1
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Hi all, new here but been reading this site for a while, first time I am in need of some expert answers as I have run out of ideas!
So had EPB fault where the handbrake didn’t work at all just flashed red light constantly. Decided to chase the wiring under the car and found a broke connection, repaired that but while I was there I decided to take the EPB module out and give it a once over. Replaced the cables as they were looking tired and tested the module motor and all seemed fine. I had new shoes, pads and discs 1000 miles ago so didn’t need to replace them when I had brakes apart. Refitted everything and now I’m getting a new fault - C1A00-4B.
My launch diagnostic tool will go through the unjam procedure which is the only thing that’ll clear the fault. Then as soon as I pull the handbrake switch, the fault appears again. I have taken the cover back off the Epb and nothing looks out of place or jammed. Any ideas? Could it be something to do with the new cables I put on into the shoes?
Appreciate any advice/help.
Thanks a lot, Cam
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| 26th Sep 2022 10:54 am |
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Frisian Driver
Member Since: 23 Aug 2021
Location: Baden-Würtemberg
Posts: 80
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C1A00-4B --> Over Temperature Error.
Over temperature error also means too high current. The internal electric motor generates electrically conductive abrasion over the time. This could increases the current. Try to remove it carefully with compressed air.
Maybe that was the cause and helps?
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| 20th Dec 2022 9:38 am |
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wranglerGM
Member Since: 13 Dec 2021
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1
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| Re: Not really related I think |
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miniman8 wrote:I had similar issues a couple of years ago with my epb, I was under the car twice in the space of 3 months unjamming it, it is possible to do it in place but a bit of a mission, once you get it all up & running again I would suggest that ( like I do now) you release the handbrake using the switch, I don’t trust the system that registers your moving.
Just as an aside my daughter has a Renault Grand Scenic which has virtually the same epb unit only difference is rear brakes are applied using a cam pin in the calliper piston, her car is a manual so as soon as you turn the engine off it applies the handbrake, only way I could find to ensure this didn’t happen was to pull emergency release cable, freed up the sticking calliper & then pressed the park brake release & the unit winds itself back & relatches, just wondering if you could do the same on discos?
Tom
I have a very similar issue (THE SAME): E BRAKE got stuck, I had to release by pulling the cable, and since then it never worked again, and each time I try the rocker switch to engage it I can hear (and a lot of people in 300 feet radius) a screeching horrible noise. I quoted you because you say that you were under the car twice and were able to unjamming it. How did you do that if I may ask? Thank you for your input, cheers. Paul G.
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| 20th Dec 2022 2:57 pm |
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