Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Usk
Posts: 412
I think the whole vane mechanism is intended to operate without lubricant, especially the linkage. Temperatures on hot side of turbo will evaporate or burn oils and grease. Any residue is likely to make matters worse fairly soon.
The solution (if there is one) will clear enough carbon deposit to allow movement again. Then normal driving with engine at working temperature may clear the fault. VVT cleaner should help, I am going to try some shortly.Chris
10th Apr 2021 5:52 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Hi all
I’ve got some Dipetine in the tank now for the next 3-4 full tanks will have it in
Am I safe to spray brake cleaner down the turbo actuator arm? To clean off any burned oil and crap?
Or is that dangerous idea?Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
24th Jun 2021 3:37 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2463
Yes if the turbos coldAndrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
24th Jun 2021 5:47 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Thanks
So I should just spray brake cleaner in the direction of the turbo actuator. Using a red straw nozzle and try to wiggle the arm and repeat to loosen off any crap
Leave it for 10 minutes then start?Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
24th Jun 2021 8:56 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2463
Yes that might work you could also try a toothbrush to loosen any tuff bitsAndrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
24th Jun 2021 9:11 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
The only problem is I can’t access or see where to brush?
All’s I can see is the too if a round ball that moves back and forth. No space to fit a brush to rub down our of sight?
Or is there a way to see and reach with a brush?Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
24th Jun 2021 9:13 pm
JDB
Member Since: 25 Mar 2010
Location: NW Hampshire
Posts: 2486
That's as much access as you can get, removing the odd shaped wheel arch heat shield allows a better angle
25th Jun 2021 5:04 am
SimonH
Member Since: 29 Apr 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 161
JDB is right, the heat shield removal makes it easier both with visibility and movement.
I could not find wire strong enough to do the push bit of the activity so:
Long Screwdriver - push
Wire hook - pull
Long Screwdriver - push
Wire hook - pull
and so on.
It is getting easier, but I dont think it is as smooth (easy) as it should be yet, I will keep going a couple of times a day for a few days, though not sure when to admit defeat? It does move the full range, just not oh so smoothly.NOW SOLD: 2006 TDV6 SE Auto Zermatt silver with Alpaca Leather
Tow Pack, PTI, Full Size Spare
2nd Aug 2021 2:30 pm
SimonH
Member Since: 29 Apr 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 161
One last question. If it does get free movement, where should I leave the actuator before starting the engine? Over towards the engine or towards the wheel side? Does it matter?
ThanksNOW SOLD: 2006 TDV6 SE Auto Zermatt silver with Alpaca Leather
Tow Pack, PTI, Full Size Spare
2nd Aug 2021 7:05 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10770
Doesn’t matter. At ignition on off it will move it
If stiff. Leave them in the middle.
2nd Aug 2021 8:03 pm
motorworks
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Usk
Posts: 412
Last week I removed a set of glow plugs which were so tight from carbon build up that they must have been within a few Nm of shearing off, but patience prevailed. In my opinion no amount of penetrating oil, or any other oil would release the baked carbon, allowing them to be removed without a fight.
Since then I had an EGR valve which appeared to be intact, but jammed solid with carbon. As before, oils made no difference and I was going to bin it. Out of curiosity, I tried immersing it in hot water and laundry detergent, which achieved a slight improvement.
Finally, I poured a small amount of neat bleach on the stuck valve. To my surprise, after some tapping on each end it freed up completely. I think it should work now so I have fitted it to an engine.
What in this process has dissolved carbon, very hot water / detergent / bleach?
I believe the same baked carbon jams the turbo actuator spindle and vanes.Chris
2nd Aug 2021 8:24 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10770
I think some ppl remove the exhaust of VW turbos and spray oven cleaner in, to free VVT
2nd Aug 2021 8:53 pm
Poppy Ann
Member Since: 27 May 2019
Location: Mansfield
Posts: 19
Pete K wrote:
If it’s that bad, add Wynn’s vvt cleaner (purple bottle) to about 3/4 a tank of fuel.
Drive moderately.
Not sure if it has worked I put 2 500ml bottles in as I filled it up it took 80 lts from just under half full,
Took car down to Devon from Nottingham si it has had a decent run I will give it some more when I fill up for return trip the sticking valve use to happen a couple of times on this trip I did take it easy on the way down but it never happened I will give it a bit more on return trip to see if it has worked I don't mind putting it in every time I fill up if it stops it happening again. Thanks for your advice.
18th Aug 2021 2:24 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10770
You shouldn’t need to put it in too often.
Once every 6 months or keep a Bottle in the car for when it plays up.
18th Aug 2021 6:16 pm
Sucker for punishment!
Member Since: 26 Mar 2024
Location: Sussex
Posts: 3
Hi,
New member here!
Does anyone know the part number for the shield that has to (normally) be removed to access the offending part…?
The previous owner seems to have completely removed said shield!! 😡
Thanks in advance.
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