Member Since: 25 May 2016
Location: oxford
Posts: 1
Hi Guys, Trying to help a friend out on his disco. Does anyone know can the actuator arm on the turbo be 180 degrees out when re fitting a new rod. As the actuator had been sticking we thought we give it ago to change it then after putting everything back together there is hardly any movement now and the good old fault code have come up. I am concerned that when we fitted the rod the arm on the actuator was in the wrong position.
Is this poss or are we barking up the wrong tree, any help welcome. Thanks in advance
25th May 2016 8:46 am
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Hi all you can do this without taking the wheel off. Just undo the heat shield and you can access the turbo arm.
My question is from reading this... how does anyone grease it when you can’t see enough to know where it’s going? Do you just hit and miss it a few times?
30th Sep 2020 7:21 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Hi all has anyone here used copper grease on the turbo arm and had any problems?
I did mine the other day and it was driving like a dream. Now it’s gone back to the ESF on the dash 😭😭😭
Wondering if copper grease is setting when it’s cold and making it hard for the arm to move?
My problem is defo the turbo arm just need the correct lube
3rd Oct 2020 1:54 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
The problem is actually inside the turbo, it is either the vanes sticking with carbon or the actuator shaft seizing where it passes through the turbo casing.
By moving the rod manually all you are doing is scraping the carbon off the internal vanes or temporarily freeing up the actuator shaft.
Iirc there is a software update that moves the vanes on each engine shutdown, search for Gstuart, as I am sure he did this not so long back.
3rd Oct 2020 5:44 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Ah all the information lead me to believe it was a long term fix.
And thanks I’ll look now!
3rd Oct 2020 5:46 pm
motorworks
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Usk
Posts: 412
I can confirm that LD is correct. I have just lifted the body off a Range Rover TDV6 to remove a faulty turbo. Lower (intake) pipe was broken and actuator arm was too stiff to move by hand.
I used a little WD40 then worked it backwards and forwards, this allowed movement by hand but it was still too stiff. I removed the cartridge and found a good deal of carbon inside. Using a small fine wire brush I cleaned the internal arm and end of the sleeve to a polished finish. I was really surprised to find this freed the spindle completely, it is now effortless to move across the full range.
I can't think of any way to achieve this with turbo in situ, but lubrication is not the answer.Chris
7th Oct 2020 7:48 pm
Kenny57
Member Since: 12 Apr 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 173
Hi folks,
after reading this I decided to at least check my turbo actuator arm is free, although from what lynalldiscovery said above, lubrication from the outside has limited merits. Anyways, I delved into my N/S wheel arch and managed to get a couple of heat shields out of the way and can now see my turbo clearly. BUT.... could I please just check the thing I think is the "ball" (arrowed in the pics below) is actually THE "ball" before I attempt to make a tool to get in and wiggle it.... cos it ain't half in a tricky place!
Last edited by Kenny57 on 5th Dec 2020 12:12 pm. Edited 1 time in total
5th Dec 2020 12:06 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10770
Yea that looks like it.
In one post there are dimensions to make up a rod to do this job.
It moves it on the forward and reverse stroke. So well worth it
5th Dec 2020 12:09 pm
Kenny57
Member Since: 12 Apr 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 173
Ok, great thanks. I'll hunt out the thread and make one
5th Dec 2020 12:13 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10770
Member Since: 12 Apr 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 173
Thank you for link Pete K!
5th Dec 2020 12:31 pm
Kenny57
Member Since: 12 Apr 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 173
Ok, update:
Click image to enlarge
Made tool to plan (bit of brazing rod) fitted perfect. Checked for movement.... I'm pleased to report my turbo actuator linkage moves freely and easily through its full range. No further action needed! Not bad for a 13year old turbo with 108,000 miles on it.
Thanks for your help guys.
Next job.... why don't my glow-plugs pull any current.
5th Dec 2020 3:07 pm
dantheman
Member Since: 12 Mar 2010
Location: Essex
Posts: 1739
Little bit of advice from those that have succeeded.
How much pushing or pulling do you have to apply to get a seized rod moving.
Car has been pretty dormant through lock down. Got the usual ESF message which doesnt go after clearing with the fault code with an iid.
Found the ball and managed to get the hook round it but I cant get it to budge. Plenty of WD40 squirted in the area but nothing. How hard can I push or pull?? Dont want to damage anything or is it just keep squirting and gently try and get some movement?Today is the oldest you've been and the youngest you'll ever be again.
9th Apr 2021 7:37 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10770
If it’s that bad, add Wynn’s vvt cleaner (purple bottle) to about 3/4 a tank of fuel.
Drive moderately.
9th Apr 2021 7:58 pm
dantheman
Member Since: 12 Mar 2010
Location: Essex
Posts: 1739
Managed to get some movement on it last night. Left wd40 on it over night. Got some copper grease for it today.Today is the oldest you've been and the youngest you'll ever be again.
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