Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2686
Bodsy wrote:
Yes, it reduced from 350Nm down to 230Nm
Thanks my torque wrench will cope with that.
Bodsy wrote:
Did you get a new stake nut too?
Yep, came in the box with the hub assembly.
I've had a better look just now and have decided I probably won't be able to get to the nut with the wheel on, so will need one of the kids in the car pushing on the brake.
NasherHeaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
22nd Oct 2010 6:35 pm
crwoody
Member Since: 09 Mar 2009
Location: Littleborough
Posts: 2109
If you've got leccy seats, you can put a length of wood across the front of the seat and another between it and the brake pedal, then just wind the seat forward until the pedal is sufficiently pressed down.
That's how I did mine anyway. Clive
22nd Oct 2010 7:14 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2686
Well that was fun.
Took 4 hours, but just why will be revealed below.
Once I’d loosened the main nut, plus got the wheel and calliper off, it was quite obvious the bearing was shot as there was movement noticeable even across the disc.
It was at this point I came across my first hurdle, I only use 6 point sockets, and the calliper bracket needs a 21mm 12 point socket, so I jumped in Mrs Nashers Astra down to the old fashioned hardware store we have in the village which had a 12 point on the shelf.
The bolts then really didn’t want to be disturbed, so a quick squirt of WD40, a cup of tea, and a length of stainless tube over the ratchet handle was required before they submitted.
My experience has always been that the little countersunk screws holding discs onto hubs are always a to get out, but having the right Torx bit helped, and it came out after a bit of swearing.
So I could see what I was doing I decided to remove the brake backing plate, and I’m really glad I did, not only as it helped with access, but I also noticed the Rubber boot on the CV joint had a very small split, something the MOT garage hadn’t found.
The old hub/bearing assembly looked like it had never been off, and the bolts holding it in from behind were stuck fast. Without the room on all of them to employ my Stainless Tube I resorted to the trusty mallet, but had quite a struggle before they were finally completely out.
The driveshaft was free on it’s splines in the middle but the hub assembly was stuck fast, so some cunning measures were needed to get it out of it’s snug hole in the upright. Searching around in my nuts and bolts collection I found a couple of High Tensile cap head bolts that were the right thread, and about the same length as the bolts I had just removed. I put these in with a few mm gap and used bigger and bigger hammers to persuade the hub out of it’s hole. With little room to swing this took a while, but eventually paid off.
Once the old hub was off the movement within it showed it was obviously completely shot.
I took the opportunity to clean the hole out along with the gaps in the speed sensor wheel.
The new hub went in nice and snug, and pulled up tight with the original bolts after I’d cleaned their threads with a wire brush.
At this point I decided to tackle a temporary repair on the rubber boot around the CV joint, so cut the old one off and went out to get a Halfords split boot that you glue together without dismantling the joint. I’ve used these before, and one lasted 40K miles on my Legacy Turbo before I sold it, but when the dealer is open again I’ll get a proper one and start another thread asking how it’s best to get the new boot on.
Once the whole thing was back together a quick road test proved how bad the old one must have got by fixing most of the ‘grumbly gearbox’ noise I thought I had
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
23rd Oct 2010 5:51 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2686
Back in for a re-test this morning and got a Pass
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
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my torque wrench will cope with that.
to get out, but having the right Torx bit helped, and it came out after a bit of swearing.
