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edoardo2677
Member Since: 29 Nov 2008
Location: kent
Posts: 69
  
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| Should all faults show on diagnostic machine? |
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Hi All,
HELP !!!!
Have plugged car in diagnostic reader/machine but the faults I'm having don't come up anywhere! Any one else seen this?
I have the suspension light come on, red brake light, yellow warning, special programs off, transmission fault warning,epb fault, hdc not working and suspension lowered! (does go on a bit)
Turn car off and then back on and "faults" are cleared for a while, but they won't show on diagnostics even when on dash? Is this normal.
I have checked battery and alternator, at a specialist, and no faults. Any help would be appreciated guys?
Am going to do break bulbs, brake switch and corroded sill wire at weekend.
Thanks in advance 
Edd
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 11th Jan 2012 1:08 am |
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wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14368
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Depends on the diagnostic equipment your using
Most cheap ones only show the main engine ECU and non of the other modules G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
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| 11th Jan 2012 1:27 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
  
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| The repair is probably simple, but finding it, no so! |
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Even if you have the Faultmate which is more versatile than the dealer T4 unit, you will still have to have the knowledge of how to interpret the codes that are displayed - and that takes some time.
I might also add that merely having the codes, even if they correctly say what is wrong, may not do you much good unless the code reader you have has the ability to do more than just clear codes. The Faultmate and the T4 can write new values in or install updated software which at times, can be a solution.
You would be a fortunate owner if the code reader said bad thermostat and all you had to do was replace the thermostat. More likely you would get a bad thermostat indication but the real fault would instead be a temperature sender, the temp gauge, or the wiring - the interpretation thing I was referring to.
From what you say, it sounds like the brake light switch or non LR bulbs fooling the various computers. The more indications you get that show nothing works and all is bad, the simpler the actual repair - but what to repair, now that is not so simple. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 11th Jan 2012 7:47 am |
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edoardo2677
Member Since: 29 Nov 2008
Location: kent
Posts: 69
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Such words of wisdom BBYER!
Will do break bulbs and switch, many people on here with same irritating warning lights. Would expect more from LR.
It was a friends diagnostic machine, but if still plays up will have to go to stealers 
Thanks guys as usual,
Edd
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| 11th Jan 2012 11:50 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6235
  
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edoardo2677
give Geoff. a shout he is down in your neck of the woods and he has a Faulmate and can check out your codes.
Flack
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| 12th Jan 2012 1:10 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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| HDC is the basis of the problem. |
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I think the reason we have these brake switch concerns and no other vehicle does is that we have the Hill Decent feature, (HDC), and no one else does - well maybe Jeep now.
The switch should have been OK from the start as it is a Ford switch made in Malta and on the Fusions and other Ford products - but none have HDC.
The ABS first gets signals from the brake switch and then feeds signals all over the vehicle via the CAN-bus - the tranny, the engine, and also back to the brake lights, (yes, a loop sort of), along with informing the HDC circuits. (The brake lights illuminate when the HDC retards the vehicle). I expect our problems have been an education to Land Rover; also I like to think the replacement switch is better built.
I think that it is one of those "who woulda thought" kind of things that Land Rover seems to keep discovering - bleeding edge and all I guess. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 12th Jan 2012 1:10 am |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
 
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Not all fault will show up as actual faults...
Had one in yesterday with a broken wire to a height sensor, would go up for about 5 seconds, beep and drop back down to normal ride height without logging a fault... My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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| 12th Jan 2012 7:38 am |
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edoardo2677
Member Since: 29 Nov 2008
Location: kent
Posts: 69
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| Re: HDC is the basis of the problem. |
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bbyer wrote:I think the reason we have these brake switch concerns and no other vehicle does is that we have the Hill Decent feature, (HDC), and no one else does - well maybe Jeep now.
The switch should have been OK from the start as it is a Ford switch made in Malta and on the Fusions and other Ford products - but none have HDC.
The ABS first gets signals from the brake switch and then feeds signals all over the vehicle via the CAN-bus - the tranny, the engine, and also back to the brake lights, (yes, a loop sort of), along with informing the HDC circuits. (The brake lights illuminate when the HDC retards the vehicle). I expect our problems have been an education to Land Rover; also I like to think the replacement switch is better built.
I think that it is one of those "who woulda thought" kind of things that Land Rover seems to keep discovering - bleeding edge and all I guess.
I did use the HDC a few times in the snow over new year so will do switch and bulbs first. 
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| 12th Jan 2012 1:17 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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| Do not even have to have the HDC on for the symptoms to show |
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In my gallery and per the link below to the Brake Light Switch album, is a pdf file showing the brake light wiring diagram. If you following the signals thru each of the two sets of contacts, you will see that one set of contacts leads directly to the ABS, then out of the ABS a signal, (probably a ground), goes to a HDC brake light relay as well as to the CAN-bus.
In summary, the CAN-bus plus the mere existence of the HDC circuit, and not necessarily the use of it is how all these false signals can evolve.
Yes, replacing the brake light switch is kind of a no downside thing - it does not cost much, is relatively easy to replace and will totally fail eventually anyway. Right now as the deterioration of the contacts is gradual, not instantaneous, it is probably still functioning as a brake light filament illumination mechanism. As to the bulbs, once you have a tail light assembly off, replacing one or all the bulbs is easy and then all should be good for a year or so.
As I said, "who woulda thought"...
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=5082 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 12th Jan 2012 3:59 pm |
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edoardo2677
Member Since: 29 Nov 2008
Location: kent
Posts: 69
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Well, fingers crossed, all ok now. Changed 4 bulbs in rear lights and brake pedal switch, £14 total spent. One of the brake bulbs filaments had blown but bulb still worked and the switch was a bit charcoaled up. Thanks all. This seems a constant problem with this type of car! Too much going on inside its brain. 
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| 15th Jan 2012 10:27 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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| Blown filament can ground on the good filament. |
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edoardo2677 wrote:Well, fingers crossed, all ok now. Changed 4 bulbs in rear lights and brake pedal switch, £14 total spent. One of the brake bulbs filaments had blown but bulb still worked and the switch was a bit charcoaled up. Thanks all. This seems a constant problem with this type of car! Too much going on inside its brain.
What makes it all so insidious is that a blown filament can end up across a good filament and create some sort of ground or more likely and worse, complete a circuit with a pretty good resistance so that nothing actually quits but instead trouble messages get created.
With your new genuine Land Rover bulbs, if you look in thru the red plastic, you should see all the filaments standing vertically. The filaments are stronger when standing up and down and also when one filament lets go, it is less likely to fall across the other.
Re the burned out bulbs being a constant problem, I would say blown filaments are the norm as it seems that system voltage runs closer to 14 VDC than as with most other vehicles which run closer to 13 VDC.
If time shows that replacing the bulbs and the brake light switch is all it took to succeed, it sure was a cheap fix. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 16th Jan 2012 3:23 am |
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edoardo2677
Member Since: 29 Nov 2008
Location: kent
Posts: 69
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Hope so!
Will re post if anything else happens concerning this blip in my 07 discovery.
She has served me well and is the 5th discovery i have owned. The others when they either fell apart or broke were easily fixed with simple repairs either being patched up or welded and put back on the road.
This one and my old 04 td5 (premium) have been quite testing.
Edd
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| 17th Jan 2012 12:36 am |
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