Member Since: 27 Oct 2010
Location: South Lincolnshire
Posts: 14
Disco 3 Tow Bar Single Electrics - Advice Required Please
Hi All,
I am a newcomer to the site, collecting my 07 Discovery 3 GS Auto next week and I need to fit a removable towbar. I have bought the actual towbar and need to buy the electrics (single) but I have noticed on some ebay listings that some self-installations need a visit to a dealer to re-programme the cars on-board computer to make it compatible for towing.
My question is whether this is essential for single electrics please, or if this is only for twin electrics. Also, do the dealers charge for this service?
Fitting the electrics is a doddle but I'd stay away from the ebay offerings if I were you and get a genuine LR 13-pin kit from The Large One.
If your car's never had a towing electrics fitted, you only need to have the car 'reprogrammed' to ensure the suspension height change is disabled when a trailer is connected. The dealer can do this or, contact someone like Wiggs who has FaultMate and who can also reprogram your car (and do it for a lot les than the dealer will charge )Now an ex-D3 owner after 7 happy years. Miss the car but not the big bills
27th Oct 2010 8:03 am
7244NE
Member Since: 27 Oct 2010
Location: South Lincolnshire
Posts: 14
Clarification
I'll definitely stick with genuine LR kit. To clarify, if I do not have this done at the dealer, will the suspension not know when I am towing?
It's only an issue if you plan to tow off tarmac and use Terrain Response. Normal road use is all good.____
Gone: 10MY L320 RR Sport HSE, Ipanema Sand
Gone: 20MY Jaguar iPace HSE, Silicon Silver
Gone: 17MY RR Evoque SE Tech, Loire Blue
Gone: 08MY Discovery 3 XS, Stornoway Grey
Gone: 07MY FFRR TDV8 Vogue, Stornoway Grey
Programming also disables the rear parking sensors (if fitted) when a trailer is connected.
27th Oct 2010 4:07 pm
PaulP
Member Since: 04 May 2007
Location: Barcelona
Posts: 4317
DD - actually I think this usually depends on the Land Rover Model Year Voodoo factor.....
I know quite a few people who have installed the tow-pack electrics and the rear PDC sensors have automatically disabled upon plugging in a trailer without having the trailer feature activated.2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE AutoBuckingham Blue 2007 Golf GT DSG
I never checked this on my D3 as the trailer I had then was so small that it was easier to un-hook it and move it by hand so I never actually reversed it!
On the D4 I had the electrics fitted at the dealer so I assume it was programmed as well.
27th Oct 2010 4:21 pm
7244NE
Member Since: 27 Oct 2010
Location: South Lincolnshire
Posts: 14
Thanks
Thanks for your posts.
I'll install a genuine LR single electric kit and then report back - it's an 07 plate so I hope it's equipped with the afforementioned parking sensor wizardry!
Regards
Neil
27th Oct 2010 9:04 pm
POINTYED
Member Since: 22 Mar 2008
Location: BURY,LANCS
Posts: 2758
hi neil
tbh i found the difference in price between single and double electrics is not that much
fitting is not hard just take your time routing the wires espec around the cars dangley balls
and if you ever get an oppertunity to pull a caravan your hook up is already there
dunc life is tooooo short.enjoy the moment.dont worry be happy
Agreed, but read instruction 16 carefully. It's there for a reason... Heheheh ____
Gone: 10MY L320 RR Sport HSE, Ipanema Sand
Gone: 20MY Jaguar iPace HSE, Silicon Silver
Gone: 17MY RR Evoque SE Tech, Loire Blue
Gone: 08MY Discovery 3 XS, Stornoway Grey
Gone: 07MY FFRR TDV8 Vogue, Stornoway Grey
27th Oct 2010 11:10 pm
Ent
Member Since: 12 Oct 2007
Location: In the cack
Posts: 6485
I've got a set for sale and could enable it once fitted £50Club Exped trailer
Club Timed Climate
Club Flappy paddle steering wheel
Club 300bhp
Club Prospeed test pilot/lab rat
Club National Luna Stella conditioner
Have some jpg's in gallery re hook up for electric brakes.
While it primarily relates to the NAS 3, I have posted in my gallery some jpg's and pdf's related to the wiring for the trailer electrics and in particular, the connection of an electric brake controller to an existing factory Land Rover / Ford connector, C2590, located up by the brake pedal.
It may be that the same Ford plug exists in the EU harnesses as well but I do not have an EU wiring diagram, only the NAS LR3 specific wiring diagrams. The jpg below is the adapter cable that inserts between the Ford plug and a Tekonsha brake controller. Other brands have similar adapter cables. This cable is a four conductor NAS cable; I think that an EU cable would have at least five conductors as the Land Rover connector C2590 has five conductors leading to it even on the NAS version, (but the NAS Controller only requires four.)
2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
28th Oct 2010 4:51 am
manichauhan
Member Since: 24 Oct 2010
Location: London
Posts: 56
Just a few pointers to fast path your installation if you decide to install the 13 pin electrics yourself ...
1) The 13 pin socket should be positioned on the bumper with the socket cap opening from the right hand side i.e the land rover sign on the cap will not be horizontal, but vertical. The mounting of the screws then becomes obvious.
2) Make sure you take off the two dummy plug ends from the 4 pin and 6 pin connectors, before you try to connect the wiring loom plugs. The connectors are located on the far left hand top edge of the rear left hand side storage cabin.
3) Remove your spare tyre completely to give you more space to work with.
4) Don't try to feed the wiring loom through the gap between the bumper and the bulky and swivelling stabilizer block. Instead feed the loom across from the front of the block, grab the connectors at the other end as it emerges and them push the loom cables back into the space between the bumper and the stabizer block.
It is virtually impossible to clip in the two clips (the wider clip and the one with the arm) on the wiring loom which are meant to sit behind the stabilizer. Unless you remove the bumper (!!) which is longer task. But you need not do it.
5) Make sure the wiring loom sits behind the exhaust heat shield as it goes up underneath the LHS tail lamp. This will prevent it from getting damaged over from heat exposure.
5) Make sure the wiring loom sits behind the exhaust heat shield as it goes up underneath the LHS tail lamp. This will prevent it from getting damaged over from heat exposure.
Hope the above helps.
Just a note to say thanks for the tips, in particular the reference to the heat shield.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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Did mine in about 90 minutes.
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