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richardch
Member Since: 27 Dec 2005
Location: Zurich
Posts: 458
  
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| D4 3.0 TDV6 Front Cambelt Only + Water Pump & Oil Pump??? |
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Ok so I have decided to only replace the front timing cambelt only as its due, I will risk the rear blowing at some stage. So I guess it makes sense to do the water pump as well, but I havent seen many instances of 3.0 TDV6 Oil pumps blowing up?
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 7th Jun 2022 3:36 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6312
  
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Personal choice on a 3ltr to change the oil pump, I would say leave it alone. I would do both belts as well, if the rear does let go a 3 ltr it can make a right mess of the main wiring looms that run right above the belt.
Flack 
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| 7th Jun 2022 4:51 pm |
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richardch
Member Since: 27 Dec 2005
Location: Zurich
Posts: 458
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thks Flack for input, that confirms my thoughts, but you would do the water pump right?
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| 7th Jun 2022 5:04 pm |
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Dave Shirley
Member Since: 22 Sep 2011
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 448
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I would definitely do the water pump as that has worked as hard as the idlers and they don't cost a lot of
money and should give you piece of mind.
I did mine and the oil pump when my cambelts were done for the 112000 mile and 7 year schedule.
Seems like false economy not to do them.
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| 7th Jul 2022 6:09 pm |
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Flatlander
Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Here
Posts: 575
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Why the water pump? it's driven by the aux. belt and unless you're changing the aux belt tensioner (and therefore theoretically changing the load on the water pump bearing) then nothing is changing - far more important to change the idler pulleys on the timing belt IMO, that, and do the rear belt. If it breaks, at best you'll have the inconvenience it causes, probably having to replace the cover and almost certainly the b@llache of having to remove bits of belt from around the HP fuel pump drive and the camshaft pulley, yes, it's a pain to do, but I'd rather do it before it breaks than after, because it will break/strip if you don't change it.
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| 7th Jul 2022 9:58 pm |
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motorworks
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Usk
Posts: 412
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I recently removed a nearly new (aftermarket) water pump, with failed bearing causing rapid coolant loss. This was on a nearly new (replacement) 2.7 engine with uprated oil pump and new belts etc.
Fitting a cheap water pump was madness, for the cost saving. Obviously, fit genuine LR or OEM. Chris
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| 7th Jul 2022 9:58 pm |
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galwaygreen
Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: plymouth
Posts: 6525
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preventitive maintenance pays in the long run..running a disco cant be done on peanuts...pay up...look happy...peace of mind
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| 7th Jul 2022 11:07 pm |
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Flatlander
Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Here
Posts: 575
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So on that logic, you'd also be changing the aux. belt, the idler pulleys and tensioner? maybe even the alternator, steering pump and refrigerant compressor as they've done just as much work as the water pump?. I've lost count of the number of 2.7 & 3.0 timing belts I've changed, but it is in the 'many' range, we never had one come back with a water pump or anything else on the aux. belt drive after the timing & rear belts were changed.
I also would suggest there is no need to change the oil pump on a 3.0l.
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| 8th Jul 2022 6:35 am |
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Dave Shirley
Member Since: 22 Sep 2011
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 448
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When doing the cambelts the serpentine belt and idlers are done at the same time surely, breakdowns are
costly and inconvenient and for the sake of a few bob gives piece of mind and confidence when using the
vehicle.
It's a folly to skimp on maintenance, especially our cars, and yes where do you draw the line on changing
hard working components, may as well buy a new car or diligently maintain the one you have.
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| 8th Jul 2022 8:41 am |
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richardch
Member Since: 27 Dec 2005
Location: Zurich
Posts: 458
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yep so got both cambelts belts and the water pump done 
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| 10th Jul 2022 2:43 pm |
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