Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
Auxiliary electrics wiring advice needed please
Probably having the time to finish up the wiring in the boot from my YT and I think I've got the basics right
I've drawn a little diagram of what's planned (shaded items will be added later) and for simplicity I've left the ground connections out of the drawing for now.
Click image to enlarge
The 275A switch is a marine battery on/off switch (overkill on the rating, but no lower ones available from where I got it from and only about £1 more expensive) so I can power the inverter directly from the battery. The two 50A Andersons are for jump-starting and the occasional charging if needed, the 175A Anderson will be added to replace the front one for jump-starting bigger vehicles and maybe a winch (if rating correct), and the spots will work independently to the headlights, with an on/off switch.
Not concluded on item locations yet (though the inverter will definitely be hidden), nor which fuse block to go for but was hoping those in the know can confirm or otherwise advise if this is how it should/could all be wired? Have I missed any fuses/relays which are necessary? Can I get away with one switch per pair of AUX power sockets (rated at 16A at 125V)?
Member Since: 23 Mar 2009
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 348
Looks ok to me - although I'm not sure that I'd run all your intended 'accessories' off the one 50A breaker, perhaps take a second feed of the battery, through a second breaker/fuse for the spotlights ?Jim
Standard TDV6 HSE
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23rd Aug 2010 8:26 am
discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
Thanks Jim.
I did consider this, but it's very unlikely I'll be running everything at once - especially the lights and inverter will def. be used separately. So I figured the aux plugs and either of the others should be ok?
Do you think I could I get away with one switch per pair of aux sockets as per original post?
Member Since: 23 Mar 2009
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 348
Biz wrote:
Do you think I could I get away with one switch per pair of aux sockets as per original post?
TIA
Not if you use a 20A fuse - as the switch might/could melt before the fuse blows
I've got the Traxide split charge kit in my D3, with the optional 50A 'supply' to the rear - my eventual plan is to use a small 6-way fuse box (BEP Marine), and wire out 3 or 4 aux sockets in the rear, along with some extra LED lighting.........each socket and the lights will have their own switch, just for ease of use really. I'm also going to fit a jump-start socket (Anderson 175A) somewhere under the bonnet, this will be a direct connection onto the YT, and will be used primarily for my 1000W inverter, and occasionally to jump-start other vehicles.Jim
Standard TDV6 HSE
Non-standard Td5 110 Hardtop
Club Traxide
23rd Aug 2010 9:20 am
discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
Thanks again Jim
Yep, the SC80 kit is what I have too, threaded the cabling to the rear a long time ago, just getting around to finishing up now...
Was going to go for a Blue Sea fuse box but it's pricey though! (at least it has an earth distribution as well). Does the BEP have the earth as well (I assume it's the ATC-6W?)
Member Since: 23 Mar 2009
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 348
The 6W-ATC doesnt have an earth distribution - that's why I've not completed my install yet, I'm still pondering over how best to sort out the earthing Jim
Standard TDV6 HSE
Non-standard Td5 110 Hardtop
Club Traxide
23rd Aug 2010 9:36 am
discoBizz
Member Since: 20 Sep 2008
Location: Manchester
Posts: 1416
Don't forget that the same current flows in the negative wiring as in the positive, so you need to provide equally substantial wiring. You may not intend to have everything on at once, but in the heat of the moment you may forget, or others may operate the switches.A vaccine does not stop you catching a virus, or passing it on, or getting ill from it, really ill. It does reduce the likelyhood of you dying when really, really ill. Stay Alive - KEEP AWAY FROM PEOPLE.
23rd Aug 2010 12:46 pm
Alan G
Member Since: 15 Oct 2008
Location: Lanarkshire
Posts: 1372
Niko, the FFRR has something similar to that on the bulkhead of the engine bay, it's for a positive lead as well, but the cap is black, albeit with a + marked on the top of it?ATB
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
Hi Biz and JimboD3, you only need to use a 50 amp Anderson Plug for jump starting.
The 50 amps is the constant load current rate and the short period of high current for a jump start is easily catered for because the 50 amp Anderson plug can tolerate something like 180 amps for a few seconds.
Now Biz, the exact reverse is the case for your proposed winch operation. A 175 amp plug is no way near big enough again because the constant current load is only 175 and this is well below the average current draw of an electric winch, so your need to go to the 350 amp Anderson plugs.
Also Biz, can you add the size of the cable you are using in your diagram?2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
As an aside, but relevant, if you can, use welding cable for the big stuff - its very flexible and turns corners much easier than standard stuff. Current rating is good too.
Its what our subby uses when space is tight.Mark.
2006, D3 SE Auto - gone but not forgotten.
2014 BMW 530d M Sport Tourer.
1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500
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