Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20869
How To - AMK Suspension Compressor Replacement
In true Land Rover fashion, even How To guides get superseded
In the box, you will receive:
Click image to enlarge
New compressor and bracket
New upper and lower covers
New compressor relay
Various pipework, new pipe union, and a brass union
Various bolts and screws
The only thing I would say is missing from this kit, are the 3 captive nuts that hold the bracket onto the chassis, which will more than likely break when removing the bolts.
Click image to enlarge
Part number is RYH500170, and you need 3 of them
Start by removing lower cover, which is held on by 3 bolts. One at the front, one at the rear, and one in the bottom of the cover, as pictured
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Next, if the inlet and exhaust pipes come out, fair enough, but they both need cut anyway to fit the new pipework. Cut them as close to the ridge in the pipe as possible. The more you have, the easier it will be later on
Click image to enlarge
Remove the pipe into the blue union on the dryer. This one should be quick release, push in the blue collar, and pull the pipe out. If the pipe is seized into the dryer, just cut it. The pipe is replaced too There may be a bit of air pressure released when this pipe is pulled out
Click image to enlarge
Disconnect the 2 electrical connectors, and remove the 2 lower bolts, that you can just about make out here.
Click image to enlarge
The top bolt is very awkward to get at. You need just the right length of extension to get onto the bolt head. It is directly above the left hand lower bolt, roughly here. Alternatively, lever the old bracket off the chassis. If it breaks, it breaks. It is no longer needed. Or the captive nut may break up, and the compressor can be removed from the car.
Click image to enlarge
And as seen with the compressor off, for reference
Click image to enlarge
Roughly how the inlet/exhaust pipework sits when fitted to the car
Click image to enlarge
Pull the old top cover out of the way. Now, the pipe (with the blue collar) that was pushed into the dryer needs to be replaced. It is at the front of the valve block inside the compressor cover. Undo the old union (12mm spanner) and discard pipe and union
Click image to enlarge
New pipe on top
Click image to enlarge
Fit the new union, and pull the white plastic insert out. It is only there to keep both part of said union together for fitting.
Click image to enlarge
Place the top cover roughly in the correct place. Loosely fit the new compressor and bracket to the chassis. As you can see, you can now get access to the top bolt with a ratchet spanner, which is much easier than before. Land Rover must have thought about this!
I found it easier to only fit the top bolt and let the compressor hang down a bit, to allow access to the inlet/exhaust pipework
Click image to enlarge
The inlet pipe (8mm pipe) gets joined as seen here, and routed over the top of the compressor, and into the inlet on the side of the compressor as seen here:
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
The exhaust pipe (6mm pipe) gets joined as seen here. I would advise to cut it a bit lower than I have done here, as it was a bit awkward joining it together.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Now, back to the other pipe. Fit the new pipe. The end with the 180 degree loop goes into the valve block, and the other end fits into the new compressor
Click image to enlarge
Join both connectors up, and refit the lower cover. In the bag there are 2 black screws, and a 10mm bolt. Both screws go in the outside tabs of the cover, and the 10mm is fitted to the bracket. It cuts its own thread on the way in.
Fit the new relay. It lives in the engine bay fuse box. Clear fault codes if you have an FCR. If you don't, the compressor should still run anyway, but there will be a fault stored in the memory of the ECU.
I can confirm that the compressor will still run on the old software, and even after an extended road test, there were no warning lights, and seemed to be no issues. The customer has been informed that there will be a software update in the near future, and will rebook when that is available. It may have been my imagination, but the car seemed to pick itself up from access height a lot quicker than the original type of compressor ever did, and seems to run a fair bit quieter, as it is mounted on rubber mounts, and is sprung on the bracket.
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated My D3 Build Thread
Nice to know that this unit will run on the old software because even if you fit a new pump we can still update it with the software that puts less stress on the pump anyway.
Flack
28th Sep 2012 9:36 pm
Hairy Dan
Member Since: 19 Jan 2011
Location: Co. Durham
Posts: 12319
Great write up Cheers Ian
--------------------
Club N.E.R.D.S
Kielder 4x4 Safari
Discoless
28th Sep 2012 9:42 pm
Albert0109
Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: Sunny Essex
Posts: 404
Great tutorial! My car is in for a compressor change at LR wondering if I will get this new type fitted ??
28th Sep 2012 9:43 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Re: How To - AMK Suspension Compressor Replacement
Great write-up Mike!
Robbie wrote:
Come on, cut to the chase - is it any easier to get to the top bolt??
Disco_Mikey wrote:
As you can see, you can now get access to the top bolt with a ratchet spanner, which is much easier than before. Land Rover must have thought about this!
Thank the Lord and all hail the ratchet spanner too.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20869
I couldn't find Nick's thread to quote you on that
Albert0109 wrote:
Great tutorial! My car is in for a compressor change at LR wondering if I will get this new type fitted ??
This compressor was ordered from a local dealer, using the old part number. This was the one that arrived thumbsup:
It will be easy enough to see if it is the new one fitted. The covers will be brand new, and you will see the new pipework My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 04 Jan 2010
Location: Luebeck
Posts: 207
Very nice write up!!
Thankssome
29th Sep 2012 7:16 pm
SteveNorman
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1146
Great write up thanks Mikey.
I connected to a d3 today, & was just checking if the suspension software was to the latest level & guess what... it now asks you, would you like to update for a Hitachi, or AMK compressor fitted, so it seems version 131.07 SDD has the latest software on to update these, although I'm suprised no TSB has been issued yet, ah well at least it can be done.
regards
Steve
3rd Oct 2012 6:11 am
Fudpucker
Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Banbury
Posts: 202
It might be an idea for those carrying this out on their own vehicles to treat the corrosion around the bolt holes before putting the new compressor on as well.
I connected to a d3 today, & was just checking if the suspension software was to the latest level & guess what... it now asks you, would you like to update for a Hitachi, or AMK compressor fitted, so it seems version 131.07 SDD has the latest software on to update these, although I'm suprised no TSB has been issued yet, ah well at least it can be done.
regards
Steve
will have a dig around see if theres a TSBTLO has left the building.......
I no longer work for a Landrover Dealer
My little chilli sauce business http://www.thechillees.co.uk
if you would like to order anything just give me a shout
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
