Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: In A World of My Own!
Posts: 2908
I think somethings not quite right there from the sound of it - mine have been pretty much silent when loweringMust stop buying shiny toys....
20th Apr 2017 5:49 pm
MattTheTall77
Member Since: 24 Oct 2013
Location: Lincs
Posts: 272
Had another check this morning, all pipes seem to be inserted ok, and no bubbles from soapy water on the connections >.< Will have to wait till it's next in and have someone check it, all seems to work fine apart form the noise when lowering/self levelling.
23rd Apr 2017 11:01 am
Chris2
Member Since: 02 Jan 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 17
I installed the AMK with relative ease but got to the final turn on a nut attached to what can be described as an elbow joint. I noted another person on this thread had the same issue but got it replaced. However I could see when it came off it just looked glued so I have super glued it back on and it is working. Does anyone know if this is going to be strong enough?
Any advice appreciated.
29th Jun 2017 9:15 pm
webego
Member Since: 06 May 2015
Location: Bromley
Posts: 331
Hi Chris2, It was me that had the same issue a few pages back in this thread. I would say ask for a replacement. They admitted to me at the time that they had other similar failures and thus the offer to replace it. Superglue may well work for a while but if it comes off again later on, you are less likely to get a replacement from the supplier. I imagine the joint will be under some kind of pressure or back pressure when operating so will be a matter of time before it gives away again. Also I realised that the outer elbow joint is supposed to have some movement there which when superglued, probably wouldn't be possible.
I know you probably don't want to go through removing it and installing another one again but if you want peace of mind it is worth just getting it replaced now.
G
29th Jun 2017 9:46 pm
da Cali
Member Since: 17 Jun 2015
Location: Trondheim
Posts: 8
what's happened with the pictures in post nr. 1??
13th Aug 2017 3:40 pm
DoubleDisco
Member Since: 11 Jul 2013
Location: Auckland
Posts: 10
Quote:
what's happened with the pictures in post nr. 1??
I think this is due to Photobucket starting to charge a large some of money to link directly to photos on its servers from external sites.
Google Photobucket Ransom to find out more.
After a bit off googling I found a chrome extension that seems to replace the images when viewing a page.
Extension is called "Photobucket embed fix" by kzahelg.
*Note I am not endorsing or recommending this extension just sharing something that worked for me.
Anyway....
I've screen shot the images and created a PDF of Disco_Mikeys first post in this thread and saved it to my gallery:
Member Since: 12 Aug 2010
Location: Fife
Posts: 2061
Mike
TOP CLASS write up..
BOTH of the Discos have failed Suspension now (My one went yesterday.. the Compressor kept running than I got the 'Overheat warning.. now I heat the pump.. and a hissing noise.. SO I assume the compressor has overheated and melted the pipes?)
So I have a an AMK Bare pump to fit to one of them. Mr G_Cams will be first...
The AMK came with no pipes or connectors. I do see some 'Pipe Kits' on Ebay etc.. The question is .. are these actually what I'm after?
Can you make your own???1 TR6 Rusting away quietly
1 FARR UTV SOLD
1 International Harvester SOLD
7 x D3 all SOLD
2 x D4 both SOLD
1 x Mrs D4 'Panther' SOLD
1 x Outlander van SOLD
1 continual stream of car parts and me living in the garage...
2nd Dec 2017 2:12 pm
Paddington
Member Since: 30 May 2013
Location: Southampton
Posts: 280
Thanks for the how to on the amk compressor
Had a good read yesterday while waiting for the new compressor to turn up.
All fitted now .
Previous cars
Discovery 200 tdi
Discovery 300 tdi
Discovery td5
2nd Dec 2017 8:13 pm
G_Cam
Member Since: 12 Aug 2010
Location: Fife
Posts: 2061
Anyone got any idea why I cant get the Fault codes to clear after replacing the AMK? (using iid)
It still keeps coming up with suspension fault.
I replaced the Relay and the 20a fuse as well as the compressor
Thanks All1 TR6 Rusting away quietly
1 FARR UTV SOLD
1 International Harvester SOLD
7 x D3 all SOLD
2 x D4 both SOLD
1 x Mrs D4 'Panther' SOLD
1 x Outlander van SOLD
1 continual stream of car parts and me living in the garage...
7th Dec 2017 10:00 am
Steve916
Member Since: 13 Aug 2017
Location: Northants
Posts: 69
What are the codes?
7th Dec 2017 3:36 pm
thartek
Member Since: 05 Dec 2014
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 7
This write-up was super helpful, and the Technical Bulletins too. I've just used them to swap my Hitachi for the AMK, but I'm having a hell of a time trying to get the upper cover lined up...
Does it even line up properly at all? I'm trying to route the main wire loom up over the top of the box, while the T (with the two connectors for the compressor plus the pressure sensor) comes off into the front tip of the cover along with the reservoir and front air lines. I can't quite get the inner liner tucked in between the bracket without flexing the cover significantly...
I have an '08 LR3 with the rear A/C so I'm sure I have some lines running through near this... And it looks like there's a drain for the A/C that drains onto the cover...
I'd love any help, tips, or advice on this! Thanks, everyone.
And for those yet to complete this, the little brass insert... I wish I had my heat gun, but I was able to defeat the near freezing temperatures with a bit of soapy water, a phillips screwdriver to "flare" the end a bit, and a lot of rocking and pushing while pinning the hose to the control arm mount.
Another quick tip I learned... slotting the top hole in the mounting bracket makes it MUCH easier to install the top bolt. I angled the slot upwards toward the hole so it won't slide out. Thread the bolt in a bit, slide the bracket over it, and then a ratcheting box end wrench. It works with both the Hitachi bracket and the AMK brackets. The hitachi bracket is easier to cut with a hacksaw (and also easier to break if you smack it on a rock or jack), but the bolts are way easier to get to on the AMK!
20th Feb 2018 1:42 am
Reddahaydn
Member Since: 02 Mar 2015
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 38
1. The larger tube towards the rear doesn't need to be cut. It's already got the brass sleeve bit inside it.
2. cut the smaller tube towards the rear just above the bend, sit in a mug of boiling water for 60 seconds, then insert the brass sleeve. If you cut it on the flat part, when you push in the new hose it will push the whole hose up and it may rub on something.
3. Install the pipe that goes over the compressor before mounting the compressor on the chassis.
4. I cut a slot in the mounting plate for the top bolt (i did this on my hitachi one as well). This allows you to screw the bolt most of the way in, and it also helps take the weight of the bracket and compressor while you get one of the bottom bolts in.
5. You can easily pull the valve block off the chassis. push up and pull hard. This will give you more room, especially for getting that upper bolt undone to get the old compressor out.
6. The upper cover doesn't line up real well, you could reroute the electrical cables that come in the top slightly towards the front if you could be bothered, but i managed to get it to go in without doing that. There wasn't enough length in the open ended hose to relocate that as well (that I can only assume is some kind of cooling hose maybe?)
Mine worked no issues without the software update, got a light the first time round as it was trying to fill the tank, but no lights since.
Hope this helps.
Cheers2007 Disco 3 2.7 TDV6
LLAMS / 265/65/18 BFG ATs / Safari Snorkel / Spare wheel carrier / 100L Long range tank / Traxide SC40 dual battery isolator / Optima Yellow Top / Autologic Remap / Front Runner Slimline II Roof Rack / Cross drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads / Front Runner drawers / UHF / Rasta front skid plate / Waeco CF50 / Mitch Hitch / Tint / Parrot MKi9200 Bluetooth Phone & Audio
5th Apr 2018 4:11 am
Reddahaydn
Member Since: 02 Mar 2015
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 38
thartek wrote:
Another quick tip I learned... slotting the top hole in the mounting bracket makes it MUCH easier to install the top bolt. I angled the slot upwards toward the hole so it won't slide out. Thread the bolt in a bit, slide the bracket over it, and then a ratcheting box end wrench. It works with both the Hitachi bracket and the AMK brackets. The hitachi bracket is easier to cut with a hacksaw (and also easier to break if you smack it on a rock or jack), but the bolts are way easier to get to on the AMK!
Well me! Great minds think alike!!! and here i was thinking I was the first to slot the top hole And it's literally the post before mine that someone has done it!! (I only read the first 2-3 pages before I went and did it).2007 Disco 3 2.7 TDV6
LLAMS / 265/65/18 BFG ATs / Safari Snorkel / Spare wheel carrier / 100L Long range tank / Traxide SC40 dual battery isolator / Optima Yellow Top / Autologic Remap / Front Runner Slimline II Roof Rack / Cross drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads / Front Runner drawers / UHF / Rasta front skid plate / Waeco CF50 / Mitch Hitch / Tint / Parrot MKi9200 Bluetooth Phone & Audio
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
(My one went yesterday.. the Compressor kept running than I got the 'Overheat warning.. now I heat the pump.. and a hissing noise.. SO I assume the compressor has overheated and melted the pipes?)
me! Great minds think alike!!! and here i was thinking I was the first to slot the top hole And it's literally the post before mine that someone has done it!! (I only read the first 2-3 pages before I went and did it).
