Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
water pipe is made to higher standards than air pipe (or receivers), it's not just the metal, but the quality of the welding and corrosion that can cause problems... side protection tubes are designed to protect against inward pressures, not outward and will therefore have different design criteria
admittedly, the UK & Europe is probably too far down the nanny state / 'everything is dangerous & will kill you' route but I would be very cautious of pressurising something not designed for that purpose
21st Jul 2006 11:53 am
christyler
Member Since: 31 Dec 2005
Location: Cork, Ireland
Posts: 1168
Mounting
10,
I would stay away from the engine bay anyway cause of heat, try that space i surgested, its easy to fit an external PCL connector from there as well. I ran a 35sq cable from the aux battery to this location for the inverter, so no prob with power.CLUB "Ah Shor it'll be grand"
First D3 in the World with a Hydraulic Winch.
2006 Disco 3 TDV6 S Auto,
Diff Locks, Turbochipped, Raised Air Intake, 220volts Onboard, Onboard Compressor, Large Bore Exahust, Underbody Protection, One or two Other Mods as well.
Other toys include, Argo Avenger 8x8, Tatra 6x6 Motorhome (Being Built)
21st Jul 2006 12:17 pm
10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
Yer, I would.... except LR stuffed the rear aircon in there Think there's room on the other side though (had a bit of a measure up when we disected Slimers )
21st Jul 2006 12:19 pm
catweasel
Member Since: 05 May 2006
Location: Bundaleer
Posts: 4805
10forcash wrote:
side protection tubes are designed to protect against inward pressures, not outward and will therefore have different design criteria
admittedly, the UK & Europe is probably too far down the nanny state / 'everything is dangerous & will kill you' route but I would be very cautious of pressurising something not designed for that purpose
the mountings might be designed to protect but unless there's been a design revolution on pipe then it should make no difference. pipe is pipe (well it's round anyway) unless you get crumple zones over there and as for the nanny state you may be right (unfortunately) as its a bit rough'n'ready where I come from..
no not that rough'n'ready cheeky boy
21st Jul 2006 2:59 pm
10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
Yer, agree that generally, 'pipe' is 'pipe' (of course, it makes all the difference as to what you smoke in it ) however, 'tube' should not be considered the same as 'pipe' ..... A bars, rock sliders etc. are almost always made from 'tube'
There's a medigas AE at work just read some of this thread... he's sitting in the corner ing and muttering no....no....no.... (yer, he is a saddo with no sense of adventure )
21st Jul 2006 3:12 pm
catweasel
Member Since: 05 May 2006
Location: Bundaleer
Posts: 4805
sounds like a wuss. nothing ventured nothing gained 8)
After chatting with TFC the other day I'm looking at getting a compressor and receiver for general home duties (bikes, lots of them, and a far-from small paddling pool my daughter expects to see inflated by SuperDad in a matter of seconds ) and for use offroad (raising pressures before returning to the road and tyre changing if needed - unlikely to ever need this but good to have the ability if I do).
I have my eye on the T-Max twin chamber as it fits into the acceptable Do$h category and was looking at the various Viair receivers available. My question is; would the 1 Gallon tank be sufficient for getting a seal on a tyre or do I need to look at the 2.5 Gallon tank?
As for powering the pump, I understand this will be beyond the ability of the accessory sockets, but is there a higher amp supply on the trailer electrics??? Too bone idle to wander the half mile back to my car to start looking at fuse ratings in the handbook I know it's not considered "kind" to say no these days, but no. Just no, ok? And if it's not ok, still no.
16th Apr 2007 12:14 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72799
NoDo$h wrote:
Too bone idle to wander the half mile back to my car to start looking at fuse ratings in the handbook
Oh to have a driveway like that!!! U been sharing VA's gaff???
16th Apr 2007 12:25 pm
300+
Member Since: 23 Nov 2006
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 189
NoDo$h wrote:
After chatting with TFC the other day I'm looking at getting a compressor and receiver for general home duties (bikes, lots of them, and a far-from small paddling pool my daughter expects to see inflated by SuperDad in a matter of seconds ) and for use offroad (raising pressures before returning to the road and tyre changing if needed - unlikely to ever need this but good to have the ability if I do).
I have my eye on the T-Max twin chamber as it fits into the acceptable Do$h category and was looking at the various Viair receivers available. My question is; would the 1 Gallon tank be sufficient for getting a seal on a tyre or do I need to look at the 2.5 Gallon tank?
I managed to reseat a STT on my D1 with a half decent chain store compressor with no tank. Went on first go. Just took a few hands to hold the seal when wait a minute or three to build up a bit of pressure and BANG is went on.
Any compressor which will do tyres will likely be crap at pumping up the paddling pool. You need low pressure high volume for that. The same compressor which seated a tyre took ages to pump up an airbed. Summat like this: http://www.toysrus.co.uk/Product.aspx/TruH...ref=235288
The one I'm looking at will shift 150l at 0psi, which should be fine for doing a paddling pool in short order as it's never going to get to a pressure that will even register with the pump.
As the receivers aren't particularly expensive and allow you bursts of instant high pressure air I'm still keen to mount one in the car, although I accept you may get away without using one in some situations.I know it's not considered "kind" to say no these days, but no. Just no, ok? And if it's not ok, still no.
Oh to have a driveway like that!!! U been sharing VA's gaff???
Sadly that's the distance from my clients' office to where my car is parked...... I know it's not considered "kind" to say no these days, but no. Just no, ok? And if it's not ok, still no.
16th Apr 2007 12:56 pm
Tony
Member Since: 20 Apr 2006
Location: Adelaide Hills
Posts: 183
In case anyone is interested in making up a set of side protection tubes / air tanks, the following pipe specifications could be handy:
IMPORTANT POINTS TO NOTE WHEN ORDERING PIPE
PLEASE KEEP TO SPECIFICATIONS.
All pipe is to be made of a long hole, surrounded by a solid material which
is centred around the hole.
All pipe is to be hollow throughout the entire length, do not use holes of
different length to that of the surrounding material.
The ID (inside diameter) of all the pipe must not exceed the OD (outside
diameter) otherwise the hole will be on the outside and the pipe will be
referred to as rod.
All pipe is to be supplied with nothing in the hole, so that water, steam or
other stuff can be put inside at a later date.
Pipe is sometimes supplied without rust; this can be applied at the job
site. Note: Some vendors are now able to supply pre-rusted pipes. If
available
in your area, this product is recommended, as it will save a great deal of
time at the job site.
All pipe over 500 ft (150m) in length should have the words "LONG PIPE"
clearly
painted on each side at the end, so the contractor will know it is a long
pipe.
Pipe over 2 miles (3.2km) in length must also have the words "LONG PIPE"
painted in the middle so the contractor will not have to walk the entire
length
of the pipe to determine whether or not it is a long pipe or a short pipe.
All pipe over 6 ft (1.83m) in diameter must have the words "LARGE PIPE"
painted on it, so the contractor will not mistake it for small pipe.
Flanges must be used on all pipe. Flanges must have holes for bolts, quite
separate from the big hole in the middle.
When ordering 90 degree or 30 degree elbows, be sure to specify left-handed
or right-handed, otherwise you will end up going the wrong way.
Be sure to specify to your vendor whether you want level, uphill or downhill
pipe. If you use downhill pipes for going uphill, the water will flow the
wrong way.
All couplings should have either right-hand or left-hand threads, but do not
mix the threads. Otherwise, as the coupling is being screwed on one pipe,
it is being unscrewed from the other.
All pipes shorter than 1/8" (3 mm) are very uneconomical in use, requiring
many joints. They are generally known as "washers".
Joints in pipes for piping water must be watertight. Those pipes for
compressed
air, however, need only be airtight.
Lengths of pipes may be welded or soldered together. This method is not
recommended for concrete or vitreous clay pipes.
Other items are often confused with pipes. These include: Conduit, Tube,
Tunnel, Duct, Culvert, Straw or Drain. Use only genuine pipes.
When shortening pipes, ensure to shorten the length. Shortening the height
or width produces two troughs, which are open ended holes.Ex Defender 110 200Tdi owner.
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Think there's room on the other side though (had a bit of a measure up when we disected Slimers 
)
then it should make no difference. pipe is pipe (well it's round anyway) unless you get crumple zones over there 
ing and muttering no....no....no.... 
