NAO
Member Since: 21 Sep 2008
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 10
  
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| Loads of fault Alarms followed by suspension dropping! |
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Hi All,
I know this has been discussed before & I think I have read most of the posts by searching.
The fault occurs after driving about 50 to 100 yrds then all the lights & faults messages appear (also vehicle shuts down to tickover) until it says "all functions unavailable" or something similar to that, then vehicle seems to drive ok, ie gets all its power & revs back but suspension lowers and fault lights stay on.
This all resets fine with a switch off & start again but only lasts about 50 - 100 yards.
I have had the brake light switch out as suggested could be the problem but all looks good (I gave it a clean anyway & re-assembled).
Now I did read somewhere about possible conections near battery box??? Do I have to take battery out? Can anyone give me a better idea as to where these are, what they look like?
Any other ideas? Any help greatly appriciated.
Thanks,
Neil.
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 6th Jan 2012 9:31 pm |
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Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
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Can't help regarding the battery box connections.
Try replacing both brake light bulbs. Make sure you use genuine LR bulbs too. 
If the problem persists, consider finding somebody who has Faultmate and get the fault codes read.
Failing that, search the forum for "Steering Angle Sensor Calibration" because your problem sounds very similar.
Hope it helps.
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| 6th Jan 2012 10:27 pm |
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NAO
Member Since: 21 Sep 2008
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 10
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Thanks Narpy, i'll have a look tomorrow.
By the looks of it nobody else has any better ideas.
Cheers
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| 7th Jan 2012 9:07 pm |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20836
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A better idea would be getting the fault codes read. No point in guessing what could be wrong. Could be caused by a multitude of things... 
Though steering angle sensor is a good place to start, for which it has to be connected to a diagnostic computer anyway  My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
Last edited by Disco_Mikey on 7th Jan 2012 9:19 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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| 7th Jan 2012 9:10 pm |
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NAO
Member Since: 21 Sep 2008
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 10
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Thanks Mikey
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| 7th Jan 2012 9:14 pm |
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miklos
Member Since: 23 Oct 2009
Location: NZ
Posts: 8
 
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Narpy wrote:Can't help regarding the battery box connections.
Try replacing both brake light bulbs. Make sure you use genuine LR bulbs too.
If the problem persists, consider finding somebody who has Faultmate and get the fault codes read.
Failing that, search the forum for "Steering Angle Sensor Calibration" because your problem sounds very similar.
Hope it helps.
Interesting about the genuine LR bulbs. I was sick of my brake lights blowing so went and bought a pair of L.E.D. ones yesterday. Working great, bright as hell, until dusk came and I had to turn my lights on. Then chaos as HDC faults, suspension lowering etc.
I too had the brake switch out, cleaned off all the carbon etc. But still if I turn on the lights immediately faults start.
Just went and bought original bulbs, took the two led bulbs out and voila, no issues. (apart from the multitude of D3 issues I already have). Put the led bulbs back in, turned the car on, headlights on and faults straight away. So I guess no LED for me.
Whoever desiged the electrical system in this car should be shot. From the Key Fobs intermittent working to the boot lock actuator to this, LR dont make it easy to love your car.
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| 7th Jan 2012 10:54 pm |
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Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
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Not using genuine stop + tail bulbs is a well documented issue here on the forum.
It's something to do with the filament collapsing onto itself when the bulb blows and still allowing a circuit that appears to cause a whole host of strange symptoms. Something which I understand isn't possible with genuine LR bulbs.
It's not a magic fix but it's always a good starting point for odd and often random electrical problems.
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| 8th Jan 2012 11:12 am |
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