Member Since: 28 Mar 2012
Location: Darwin
Posts: 82
I put a mid strength thread locker on all my bolts, especially any that are on area's of vibration. It cant hurt.
12th Mar 2016 2:34 am
maires
Member Since: 30 Oct 2013
Location: Sintra
Posts: 3
Can you tell me what's the socket size needed to turn the crank?
Thanks
12th Mar 2016 2:34 pm
bulletman
Member Since: 28 Mar 2012
Location: Darwin
Posts: 82
mine was 13/16 or 21mm. I have been told there are 2 different bolt sizes so not sure which one I have.
Cheers
13th Mar 2016 4:30 am
jetmech
Member Since: 22 Feb 2016
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 271
I have started this job today.
Wow! The rear belt is done, must have taken 3 1/2 hours and without this thread I would have given up and assumed that the rear cover would not come out with the engine in situ.
Thank you to everyone who has contributed advice and information.
On to the front now. First hurdle is to make a tool to hold the fan pulley! I'll report back later.Simon.
2008MY Dicovery 3 TDV6 SE Manual
17th Mar 2016 7:24 pm
John Andre Ognheim
Member Since: 29 Oct 2013
Location: Bergen
Posts: 111
Tnx for imformative thread.
I`m looking into checking my Oil pump, just to ensure its ok.
MY06, with 172000 km.
Also gonna change waterpump. So lots off good tips in here.
Think my VIN no, start with 6A39xxxx in case, should i use the 14mm bolt, mentioned earlier. Crankshaft
Cheers.
24th Mar 2016 12:31 pm
audiobull
Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: UK
Posts: 384
deleted
Last edited by audiobull on 3rd Jun 2016 7:51 pm. Edited 1 time in total
20th May 2016 2:00 pm
Jarvis
Member Since: 16 Dec 2009
Location: West Berkshire
Posts: 279
Mine never lined up exactly either.....
20th May 2016 2:13 pm
audiobull
Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: UK
Posts: 384
deleted
Last edited by audiobull on 3rd Jun 2016 7:51 pm. Edited 1 time in total
20th May 2016 6:47 pm
defector
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1433
[quote="Flack"][quote]and don't turn the engine over for at least four (4) hours after fitting said seal. Thumbs Up
Quote:
Not sure where this comes from, but I have done a couple of hundred oil pump casings now, and as soon as I am ready to start the car up after fitting them I have done, not waited for four hours, never had any problems with them...
Flack
Apparently because these seals are teflon (PTFE), their memory effect is limited unlike rubber seals which generally spring back into shape more or less instantaneously.
When installing these seals using the correct tool, the seal expands slightly as they are pushed in.
The 4 hours quoted is to let the seal relax back to its manufactured dimension.
As you all may have gathered, shouldn't mess with the lip of the seal as it seems hard and if creased is then useless, but they are extremely hard wearing and in most instances will last the life of the engine.
24th May 2016 2:50 pm
jetmech
Member Since: 22 Feb 2016
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 271
Disappointingly my crankshaft seal is leaking, at least I think it is, as there is oil seeping from the bottom of the timing belt cover.
I was pretty happy with the installation, 1mm under flush and left overnight. But I don't have the time or the inclination to look into the problem at the moment. Simon.
2008MY Dicovery 3 TDV6 SE Manual
24th May 2016 11:27 pm
mickemic
Member Since: 20 Jun 2016
Location: Gävleborg
Posts: 16
Hi guys,
I'm new to this forum, although I've been reading it for quite some time. I'm about to change the driving belt, and from what I can read here, the oil pump as well. Could someone please name the parts and parts numbers that are necessary/should be changed when performing this change? Such as bolts, pulleys, kits, oil pump and other things that you "pass" on the way, like maybe other belts?
If it can be bought and shipped to Sweden, by anyone on this forum, that would be even better. I've filled my cart on Advancedfactors so far, but I can't find the oil pump.
Also, can the the oil pump that already sits there be made stronger somehow, instead of changing it? I'm guessing welding might not be a good idea, but maybe there's some way?
(jetmech) Disappointingly my crankshaft seal is leaking, at least I think it is, as there is oil seeping from the bottom of the timing belt cover.
I was pretty happy with the installation, 1mm under flush and left overnight. But I don't have the time or the inclination to look into the problem at the moment. Sad
You have to be very careful when fitting the seal that you do not twist it to much on the crank when you insert it, it has to be as square on as you can get it.
I have the LR tool for inserting the seal but I still need to be sure its pushed in level before knocking it all the way in.
Flack
20th Jun 2016 9:23 am
John Andre Ognheim
Member Since: 29 Oct 2013
Location: Bergen
Posts: 111
Oilpump seal
Click image to enlarge
Just had the same problem...
So I`ve made a insert tool, using a plastic tube with different diameter...
They called it a vacum cleaner hose adapter.
Worked perfect for me....
First i tried to gently twist inn on the shaft, and almost broke it, got some small deformations.
BUt after I slided it into that plastic tube, it was ok.
Slied it on the small tube, and cut off the thinner part with a knife... so its the same diameter as the crankshaft....
Click image to enlarge
20th Jun 2016 10:20 am
mickemic
Member Since: 20 Jun 2016
Location: Gävleborg
Posts: 16
Just got an email from Ian at AF, and they don't sell the oil pump. Anyone else who do? It is still more or less critical to change it, right?
I found one on ebay, but I'd prefer to buy it from someone here.
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