Member Since: 02 Aug 2023
Location: Durham
Posts: 45
Small scratches front crankshaft after removing oil seal
I've recently replaced the oil pump on my d3 but after installing the new seal it leaked.
I've ordered the tool to fit a new one but after removing the seal there's a few light scratches on the crank
Is this a problem, if so how do I fix it before fitting another seal.
Click image to enlarge
25th May 2024 1:13 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4919
That's a bit odd and looks like either tiny dings in the shaft or metal flakes. Are you changing the oil pump?
Something must have become trapped between the casting sectors and the rotating shaft for that to have happened. open up your oil filter and check for debris.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
25th May 2024 1:42 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2319
Or has a ‘butcher’ been there before you, and graunched the seal out using an incorrect method ?D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
25th May 2024 1:50 pm
Akers
Member Since: 02 Aug 2023
Location: Durham
Posts: 45
I suspect it's when the seal has been removed. I guess I'm wondering if I need to do anything before I fit the new seal.
25th May 2024 1:55 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4919
I just re-read your post and see that you have replaced the oil pump.
The best chance you have now is to remove the pump again and knock back the high points on the shaft with a length emery paper and oil. Then using a fine grade again with oil, try and polish out the the areas where the seal lip sits.
Use the old crank bolt to turn the shaft, and while the pump is out open it and check the pump gears are not damaged from debris. If they are replace it and a new crank bolt is essential as the old one must not be reused.
Beyond that there's little else you can do beyond shaft removal and specialist polishing. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
25th May 2024 2:10 pm
Akers
Member Since: 02 Aug 2023
Location: Durham
Posts: 45
Thanks for the advice. the groves are very fine. I caused them I suspect removing the seal to fit a new one, it's not where it was leaking from.
I notice there are shaft repair sleeves but I was wondering how much of an issue this could be before I go at it.
25th May 2024 2:17 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4919
Are you saying the seal was not leaking from its contact lip with the shaft? If not from there then where was it leaking?
In any case your success or failure will depend entirely on you own ability to get this right!
So proceed carefully and ignore the damaged area behind the lip of the seal contact area. Use very fine emery strips with oil that you can pull alternately to polish a particular area, then rotate the shaft a 1/8th or 1/4 turn and repeat with roughly the same amount of polishing movements.
You will see the polishing take effect quite quickly, so don't overdo it and make sure there are no high spots where the seal lip contacts the shaft. Your finger nail will be your best tool to assess if the finish is comparable with the undamaged shaft area!!
Best of luck and take your time.
I have never used a sleeve on these so can't offer you any insights.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
25th May 2024 2:37 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2319
I’d recommend NOT turning the crankshaft at all, when you blend out this damage, leave it locked where it is, remember there is no timing belt fitted at this stage.D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
25th May 2024 2:57 pm
Akers
Member Since: 02 Aug 2023
Location: Durham
Posts: 45
I was thinking the same. just for clarity I'm talking about the 3 small marks I suspect from my screwdriver.
The seal was being removed due to incorrect fitting originally it was leaking because the lip was creased.
25th May 2024 3:14 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2319
They look like they are behind where the seal lip contacts luckily. If it were mine I would still try to blend them a bit, so there are no high spots. The front face of the new seal, when installed, should be recessed 1mm. Just make doubly sure that the area on the crank where the seal lip contacts, is a super smooth and round surface. D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
25th May 2024 3:23 pm
Akers
Member Since: 02 Aug 2023
Location: Durham
Posts: 45
Click image to enlarge
after a little work with some 120g emery and a little diamond file. I think it's looking better
25th May 2024 4:01 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4919
A bit of a faff I know having to remove/relocate the locking tool but this is so you can access any areas not visible as well as evening out the polishing across the circumference. If you're uncomfortable or worried about timing you can mark the shaft in relation to the oil pump before you begin.
If you are certain there is no damage elsewhere then leave the crank as it is. If you decide to turn it the shaft will stop when you meet a valve, polish, then go the other way until it stops again.
You're probably only going to get one decent go at this, but hopefully it will be clearer to you what's needed when the pump is out of your way. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
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