Member Since: 31 Jan 2021
Location: Idaho
Posts: 5
Remove plastic sleeve/cover nut for parking brake cable
Greetings,
I am in the middle of a full suspension/drivetrain/brake refresh project on my new-to-me 2006 LR3. Part of my project includes surface rust repair. I want to remove the parking brake cable from the knuckle so I can fix some corrosion on the brake backing plate. Unfortunately, the plastic fastener sleeve with a 19mm nut that covers the cable entrance through that backing plate is fighting me tooth and nail. I've tried several things and scored the plastic up in the process. I'm at the point where I just want to cut it off, but wanted to request the advice of the experienced owners here if there is some trick to removing it that I am not seeing in the workshop manual.
See the following picture of the offending part for reference.
Click image to enlarge
Thanks in advance!
17th Aug 2021 4:16 pm
srey
Member Since: 31 Jan 2021
Location: Idaho
Posts: 5
Perhaps it just pulls out? I could try prying it out, but if it does unscrew the threads will strip off by doing so.
17th Aug 2021 4:27 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4907
It's rust that's holding it, you could try a heat gun but be careful not to overdo it. If you cut it off you'll need a new back plate, and that will mean new wheel bearings as well as a 20t press!
Lots of penetrating oil, a little heat maybe, and some patience should get it off. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
17th Aug 2021 4:49 pm
srey
Member Since: 31 Jan 2021
Location: Idaho
Posts: 5
Thank you for the advice. I finally got it. I tried using my heat gun to no avail. I had already soaked it in penetrating oil, but kept spraying more on both ends of the fastener. Then I used a pick tool to slowly scrape off the rust at the bottom of the threads and work my way up under the lip of the fastener. After about 20 minutes of picking and spraying lubricant I was finally able to wrench it off.
The C-clip that retains the cable housing was rust-welded onto the backing plate, so more picking was in order. I have now successfully removed the parking brake cable from both sides now. Thank you again!
18th Aug 2021 3:44 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4907
How bad is the back plate? If it's very corroded it might not be worth a repair as they are not the best quality to begin with.
Renewal means dismantling the knuckle and destruction of the bearing in separating the hub. There is the possibility of cutting off the backplate, but then you'd have to cut and weld the new one even though it is fixed to the hub with a few small bolts.
Personally I have never done it that way, as usually by the time the backplates have corroded it's also an time/opportunity to rebuild the hub and knuckle completely. This approach allows/encourages complete replacement of all the parking brake gubbins and components as well. In any case, the existing bearings and knuckles are very often original from the factory, so it makes good economic sense and preventative maintenance to start afresh.
Besides, if you have to go in there you only want to be going once! yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
18th Aug 2021 4:25 pm
srey
Member Since: 31 Jan 2021
Location: Idaho
Posts: 5
It is beyond repair. I just ordered new ones. I intend to cut the new ones and mount them in two pieces like these from Atlantic British. If I decide they're too flimsy mounted like that then I will use epoxy or stabilize it with a homemade bracket.
Click image to enlarge
18th Aug 2021 4:44 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4907
OK so that's an interesting solution but not available on this side of the pond that I know of.
Perhaps you could place a few spot welds to lock them in place?
What ever you do make sure you spray them with an anti rust coating!
Great solution though to an otherwise testing and time consuming job. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
18th Aug 2021 4:57 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2462
If you have gone to all the trouble of removing evetything why not replace the bearings as well, it will make it easier to fit the back plates.Andrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
18th Aug 2021 6:58 pm
srey
Member Since: 31 Jan 2021
Location: Idaho
Posts: 5
Excellent question. There are two primary reasons, neither of which are really that valid. First, I do not have a 20 ton press to install the new ones. Second, I'm already somewhat over the budget I set for myself for this iteration of the project. Weighing those reasons against the fact that it is not a pressing need (pardon the pun) leads me to not worry about it at this moment in time.
For reference, here is my build thread on another forum, but I might switch to this one as it seems much more active.
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4907
Since you can obtain and fit new backplates without having to pull everything apart, it probably makes sense to go that way. Though now that you have it apart you should consider renewing the knuckles at least.(cheap)
It seems odd the split backplates are not available over here.
Perhaps you might post back and let us know what you think of them yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
18th Aug 2021 10:29 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1798
From the pictures, the bearings do not look the best. So as said, replacement will save doing them again later unless you are on-selling the vehicle.
19th Aug 2021 1:41 am
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1798
From the pictures, the bearings do not look the best. So as said, replacement will save doing them again later unless you are on-selling the vehicle.
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