DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - HDC/DSC Fault Not Brake Light Switch

ambrown31

Member Since: 17 Aug 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 12

HDC/DSC Fault Not Brake Light Switch

I have been getting DSC/HDC/Brake/ABS lights recently. It seems to happen when the car is warm. It started up fine today and I drove to the store. Got back in the car and before even cranking it, just key in the II position, the HDC warning popped up on the dash.

When I do a cold start it is normally free of any lights and suspension works normally. I will check again in the morning to see if this is still true.

I changed the following:
Battery
Brake light switch

I also pulled the passenger (LHD car) wiring out beside the door and seat and addressed all of the corrosion at the splice locations I could find. I did find the Red brake light wire splice and took care of that one as well.

No change from any of this. I pulled the codes and I believe this is being caused by the first one which i have never seen before. I listed the rest in case any are relevant. Keep in mind a lot of those codes are probably from having the batter disconnected. Some of them are normal codes I have had for years.

Vehicle Dynamic

C1A77-16 (0B) Valve relay supply circuit - General electrical failure - circuit voltage below threshold
( on 27-08-2020 18:17:10 at 309854 km )

The manual says this related to the C1A77-16 code:

------------------------------------------------
NOTE:
DTC may be stored due to a
vehicle charging or starting fault

Using the manufacturer approved
diagnostic system, check other
modules for related DTCs. Check for
correct vehicle charging system
operation. Refer to the electrical
circuit diagrams and check the ABS
module (UBVR) power and ground
circuits for fault

------------------------------------------------

**I did check power and ground one day when the car was cold/no warning lights illuminated. Power and ground to the ABS module appeared to be good. I have not checked with the car warm and the warning lights illuminated. That is the next step.**

Instrument Pack

U0102-87 (2C) Lost communication with transfer case control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
U0132-87 (2C) Lost communication with ride level control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
U0184-87 (28) Lost communication with audio unit - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message

Body Control

B1A98-83 (6C) Local interconnection network bus circuit 1 - Bus signal/message failure - value of signal protection calculation is incorrect
( on 08-08-2020 18:06:09 at 309840 km )
B1B02-28 (2F) Low frequency coil - General signal failure - signal bias level is out of range/zero adjustment failure
( on 02-08-2020 22:56:27 at 309840 km )
B1BA0-66 (6C) Excessive challenge requests or start attempt in storage mode - Algorithm based failure - signal has too many transitions/events
( on 02-08-2020 22:56:45 at 309840 km )
B1C12-73 (2F) Passenger's up/down mirror motor circuit - Mechanical failure - actuator is stuck closed
( on 02-08-2020 22:56:28 at 309840 km )
B1C26-3A (2F) Pedal motor feedback circuit - Frequency modulation/pulse width modulation failure - incorrect, has too many pulses
( on 02-08-2020 22:35:34 at 309840 km )
B1C32-13 (2F) Steering column tilt solenoid - General electrical failure - circuit open
( on 02-08-2020 22:35:34 at 309840 km )
B1C33-3A (28) Steering column tilt feedback signal - Frequency modulation/pulse width modulation failure - incorrect, has too many pulses
( on 08-08-2020 18:01:28 at 309840 km )
B1C34-13 (2F) Steering column telescope solenoid - General electrical failure - circuit open
( on 02-08-2020 22:35:34 at 309840 km )
B1C35-3A (28) Steering column telescope feedback signal - Frequency modulation/pulse width modulation failure - incorrect, has too many pulses
( on 08-08-2020 18:01:28 at 309840 km )
B1C57-14 (6C) Passive start ignition relay coil circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open
( on 08-08-2020 18:01:28 at 309840 km )
B1C82-14 (2C) Headlamp washer relay coil circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open
( on 02-08-2020 22:57:54 at 309840 km )
B1C96-13 (2F) Alarm LED circuit - General electrical failure - circuit open
( on 02-08-2020 22:56:35 at 309840 km )
B1D05-15 (6C) Lower tailgate release circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to battery or open
( on 27-08-2020 18:16:38 at 309850 km )
B1D13-15 (6C) Interior lamps 1 circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to battery or open
( on 04-08-2020 15:08:26 at 309840 km )
U0155-87 (28) Lost communication with instrument cluster control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 02-08-2020 22:37:41 at 309840 km )

I checked live data today to see if any of the wheel speed sensors were acting up. They all seemed fine.

I did notice an intermittent really odd reading out of the yaw sensor. I was able to screenshot it. Normally it would read small values around 0 but occasionally would show a really high number.

Anyone know if this is normal? I thought a failed/failing yaw sensor would throw a code specific to the yaw sensor.

*The screenshot above is while driving in a turn. I grabbed that screenshot specifically to show the weird Yaw rate value.*

Long post but I'm out of ideas.

Anyone have any thoughts?

P.S. Vehicle is a 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L V8 Gas 195k miles

Thanks,
Alan

Last edited by ambrown31 on 28th Aug 2020 4:58 pm. Edited 1 time in total

28th Aug 2020 4:31 am

gstuart

Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854

2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 Base 7 Seat Auto Java Black

Hiya

Noticed that ur steering wheel angle sensor should be zero , unless of course u had ur tyres turned ,lol
so best to at least ensure thats ok, ie starting with the simple thing first

so point ur steering wheel dead straight , ensuring ur tyres are also dead straight and then reset ur steering wheel angle sensor, should read 0

Ref ur yaw sensor, are u parked on flat level ground

Strange the left hand side wheel speed sensors arnt the same as the other side , see how u get on with the steering wheel angle sensor to ensure that’s ok, if not the wheel speed sensors need looking at

Then clear everything then read the codes again to see what comes back

Hope that helps

Last edited by gstuart on 28th Aug 2020 10:06 am. Edited 4 times in total

28th Aug 2020 9:57 am

gstuart

Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854

Hiya

If I may also add plse, ur battery with the engine off should read 12.6 Vdc as a min, so ur new battery needs charging up

Plus check what the Vdc is with the engine running , first with nothing switched on, then again everything turned on and see what readings u get @2,000 revs

Ps, hope u don’t mind me saying but if u fill in ur vehicle details it always helps when u post so everyone knows what model u have

28th Aug 2020 10:00 am

ambrown31

Member Since: 17 Aug 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 12

Thanks for the quick replies.

I should have mentioned a couple of things about the screen shot.

I grabbed that screenshot when I was driving. Yes, i was in a turn at the time so I think the steering angle and wheel speeds being off are from that.

As for the battery voltage, I had that displayed but it was off screen at the top. My gap tool does not display that voltage correctly at the top left when the car is on for some reason. I have to pull the live battery voltage for it to display correctly.

I was right at 14.0 V idling before i took that short drive. I believe the alternator is charging correctly. It usually ranges from 13.9 V on a hot day to 14.2 V on a cooler day sitting at idle.

I am going to grab another screenshot with the car just sitting and wheels straight. I will post that shortly.

I am going to update the first post and clarify/add a few things.

Vehicle is a 2005 LR3 HSE V8 gas engine.

Thanks!

28th Aug 2020 4:55 pm

ambrown31

Member Since: 17 Aug 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 12

new data

Wanted to give an update this morning. Car has been off overnight and no warning lights at all. It let me clear the old codes and when I cranked and idled the car for a minute did not immediately reset any codes or warning lights. Seems to only be happening when the car is warmed up.

Checked voltages with the engine off and on for good measure.

*Car off

*Sitting at idle

*Data sitting at idle in my driveway. Steering wheel straight. Why are those longitudinal and lateral acceleration values so high. Shouldn't they be 0? This also shows the yaw rate sensor does show appropriate values but while driving will spike to something that seems unreasonably high.

Any new ideas?

Thanks!

28th Aug 2020 5:36 pm

Pete K

Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10485

2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Rimini Red

You seam to have a long list of fault codes there.
If they are been cleared within the last month I would consider a big connector is loose (going to fuse box) or a ground point is bad (start on passenger side )

If the car doesn’t have a denso alternator it could be that

28th Aug 2020 6:54 pm

gstuart

Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854

Hiya

Am wondering ref the iid screen shot, as it’s sitting on idle why it’s showing ign and at 14.1vdc , unless it’s on charge as well

When I’ve done screen shots with the engine running it’s always showed the RPM at the top

Plus 1 what @Pete has said, he’s considerably more knowledgeable than myself

Hi @pete , may I ask plse , would it help by doing a quick canbus test on the hi and medium circuits, seeing the instrument panel is involved , many thks

Last edited by gstuart on 28th Aug 2020 7:50 pm. Edited 2 times in total

28th Aug 2020 7:43 pm

ambrown31

Member Since: 17 Aug 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 12

New fault code list

I cleared and re-scanned the faults to get rid of any that are a result of the battery being disconnect. Below are the ones that are usually there.

Body Control

B1B02-28 (2F) Low frequency coil - General signal failure - signal bias level is out of range/zero adjustment failure
( on 28-08-2020 09:13:22 at 309860 km )

B1BA0-66 (6C) Excessive challenge requests or start attempt in storage mode - Algorithm based failure - signal has too many transitions/events
( on 28-08-2020 09:13:29 at 309860 km )

B1C26-3A (2F) Pedal motor feedback circuit - Frequency modulation/pulse width modulation failure - incorrect, has too many pulses
( on 28-08-2020 09:12:49 at 309860 km )

B1C82-14 (2C) Headlamp washer relay coil circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to ground or open
( on 28-08-2020 09:18:56 at 309860 km )

B1C96-13 (2F) Alarm LED circuit - General electrical failure - circuit open
( on 28-08-2020 09:21:57 at 309860 km )

U0155-87 (2E) Lost communication with instrument cluster control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
( on 28-08-2020 09:21:03 at 309860 km )

I checked all of the connectors around the fuse box and behind the battery and they all look good.

I also checked the 2 sets of grounds behind the kick panel on the passenger side. All looked good. No corrosion and tight.

I have owned the car for 85k miles and never had a problem with the alternator. I guess it could be going bad, but wouldn't I see a much lower charging voltage? 14.4 V seems like it should be ok?

28th Aug 2020 7:46 pm

Pete K

Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10485

As long as it doesn’t have cheap alternator on it

14v is ok, buts it’s common to see 15v after startup on these

28th Aug 2020 7:51 pm

gstuart

Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854

Hiya

Just quickly before @Pete comes back, did u use a multimeter to test the body connection earths were ok plse , as indeed they may look ok but a multimeter will at least then ensure 100% there ok

Also does it lock and unlock ok via the remote plse, thks

28th Aug 2020 7:53 pm

ambrown31

Member Since: 17 Aug 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 12

gstuart wrote:
Hiya

Am wondering ref the iid screen shot, as it’s sitting on idle why it’s showing ign and at 14.1vdc , unless it’s on charge as well

When I’ve done screen shots with the engine running it’s always showed the RPM at the top

Plus 1 what @Pete has said, he’s considerably more knowledgeable than myself

Hi @pete , may I ask plse , would it help by doing a quick canbus test on the hi and medium circuits, seeing the instrument panel is involved , many thks

I am not sure why my iid tool displays like that on the top. I know what you mean though. I have seen it display RPM and correct battery voltage before but the app is doing things differently now. It was not on a charger, just idling like normal. I will see if I can play with the app and get the RPM to display properly again.

I am wondering if the instrument panel code is cascading from one of those other body faults? How do I do a canbus test?

While I do have a lot of random body faults that I should probably address I feel like the HDC/DSC/ABS issue is only related to the vehicle dynamic code:

C1A77-16 (0B) Valve relay supply circuit - General electrical failure - circuit voltage below threshold
( on 27-08-2020 18:17:10 at 309854 km )

Is it normal to see a non zero lateral/longitudinal acceleration value while sitting still?

28th Aug 2020 7:54 pm

ambrown31

Member Since: 17 Aug 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 12

Pete K wrote:
As long as it doesn’t have cheap alternator on it

14v is ok, buts it’s common to see 15v after startup on these

I will see if I can read the label on the alternator. I have read you can't test alternators on the LR3 using standard methods. Is this true? Any other way to check the alternator to eliminate it as a potential cause?

28th Aug 2020 7:57 pm

ambrown31

Member Since: 17 Aug 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 12

gstuart wrote:
Hiya

Just quickly before @Pete comes back, did u use a multimeter to test the body connection earths were ok plse , as indeed they may look ok but a multimeter will at least then ensure 100% there ok

Also does it lock and unlock ok via the remote plse, thks

I will check the grounds behind the kick panel with a meter and report back. I checked the ground pins in the ABS harness using a meter and they were good.

Lock and unlock works perfectly on the remote.

28th Aug 2020 7:59 pm

gstuart

Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854

Hiya

Indeed ref the RPM, have u updated the iid or does it need it, alas normally comes up as a reminder though

Last edited by gstuart on 8th Nov 2020 1:09 pm. Edited 1 time in total

28th Aug 2020 8:07 pm

gstuart

Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854

ambrown31 wrote:
gstuart wrote:
Hiya

Just quickly before @Pete comes back, did u use a multimeter to test the body connection earths were ok plse , as indeed they may look ok but a multimeter will at least then ensure 100% there ok

Also does it lock and unlock ok via the remote plse, thks

I will check the grounds behind the kick panel with a meter and report back. I checked the ground pins in the ABS harness using a meter and they were good.

Lock and unlock works perfectly on the remote.

Perfect , the canbus test procedure will also be very telling of how the wiring / modules etc are within the vehicle

Ref alternator, indeed to test it properly u need an oscilloscope

Heard there is one test which I believe tests the diode , engine running , set multimeter to ACV, On battery posts , one lead on positive other on earth Post , see what voltage u get

28th Aug 2020 8:13 pm