NCC-1031
Member Since: 30 Jan 2019
Location: Clanfield, Hampshire
Posts: 384
  
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| Disco 3 oil pump/cam belt tools and thoughts |
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Hi all
Have taken my D3 apart to investigate the oil pump !! Yes it needs changing.
While the car is in pieces I’m thinking I can do it myself but am loathed to buy tools for a one time job so I’m wondering if anyone on here locally has the tools I can borrow, hire or buy. Or is there some one locally who is willing to pop round and change the pump with their tools.
Car is in a hugh well lit garage. Nice and dry. !
Any thoughts or suggestions please ????
Steve
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 15th Nov 2019 3:13 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10728
 
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you can get cambelt locking tools on ebay for about £15
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5Pcs-Engine-Loc...Swh6hdfwWJ
The gold coloured starting locking tool should fit better than the silver ones.
The silver ones will need filing down to fit.
what tools are you thinking of ?
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| 15th Nov 2019 4:27 pm |
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NCC-1031
Member Since: 30 Jan 2019
Location: Clanfield, Hampshire
Posts: 384
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That looks good. More thinking bout the tools for removing and refitiing the oil pump.
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| 15th Nov 2019 4:37 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10728
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I think the only special tools required are.
Large socket to undo crank bolt.
On long bar
Tool to insert seal at the end. A suitable sized
Socket that matches the seal can be carefully used.
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| 15th Nov 2019 6:24 pm |
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NCC-1031
Member Since: 30 Jan 2019
Location: Clanfield, Hampshire
Posts: 384
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Are you sure. Sounds good. Why then are there special tools for £200 on the advanced factors site. (Also looking at the Haynes manual filling me with fear on all the bits to take off and change!)
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| 15th Nov 2019 6:44 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10728
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It’s probably 2 days work.
Yes it’s involved.
Not many special or expensive tools though
Fan removal tools required.
Change the belts at the same time
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| 15th Nov 2019 7:48 pm |
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NCC-1031
Member Since: 30 Jan 2019
Location: Clanfield, Hampshire
Posts: 384
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Ok. Had a new cam belt 6k miles ago. So can I keep that? Have removed cam belt cover (have already got aux drive belt and tensioners). Is it now just a case of locking the cams, (need kit above for that) and remove timing belt. Alternator and plate. Remove crankshaft pulley (new bolt needed). Remove old oil pump. Prime new pump and fit. But the new seal looks like it needs to be stretched with something... in order to fit it. Is that right??
Thanks for any guidance guys.
Steve
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| 15th Nov 2019 8:48 pm |
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lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
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Try a search, I think there is a special tool to fit the seal, get it wrong and it blows out meaning you have to do the whole thing again.
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| 15th Nov 2019 9:24 pm |
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Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 873
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Watch a few videos on YouTube and one mentions he brought a timing set from eBay and he had to bring a bit off the flywheel locking pin . I hired a genuine set from my spares place local to me so knew it would work you could try phoning round a few local to you and see if they do the same. As Pete k said crank shaft bolt is dam tight I used a good breaker bar and a 1500mm 5mm thick skin pipe slide over to get purchase also a big torque wrench to tighten it up. I enjoyed doing mine took me 10.5 hours and that wasn’t racing, if you have space and time go for it and take photos and be methodical 
The oil seal I brought a genuine one and an alternative brand with a plastic fitting applicator tool Metal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
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| 15th Nov 2019 9:26 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6310
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You missed the most important part of locking the crank, also bin the belt and fit a new one, the seal is the most critical part of the job, get it wrong and you will be doing it again.
The seal must be knocked in 1mm lower than the oil pump face as this is what is set on the LR tool for the seal.
You will also need at least 1 meter bar to undo and tighten the crank bolt. Its a job you cant cut corners on so if it was me I would renew the whole kit and water pump to be sure.
Flack
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| 16th Nov 2019 9:02 am |
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NCC-1031
Member Since: 30 Jan 2019
Location: Clanfield, Hampshire
Posts: 384
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Just feels more and more like a job for the specialist to me. Happy playing and maintaining. But for th cost of the tools I think I should use for a 1ish of job. I might be better to just pay an indi. Kind of why I was wondering if there is a mobile indi in my area  as the car is close to the change
Steve
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| 16th Nov 2019 9:15 am |
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NJSS
Member Since: 06 May 2009
Location: Catherington, Hampshire.
Posts: 10836
 
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Not mobile, but West 4x4 in Waltham Chase are excellent, but busy.
You would have to book up in advance for them to do a job like this.
http://www.west4x4.co.uk/
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| 16th Nov 2019 10:10 am |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10728
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I wouldn't bother trying to prime the pump. Seams difficult.
Make sure the seal is a genuine LR item.
The starter needs to be removed to fit the crank locking tool
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| 16th Nov 2019 2:54 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6310
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Quote:I wouldn't bother trying to prime the pump. Seams difficult.
Actually this is a important step, I always prime the pump, just turn it upside down and fill the oil pump with oil and rock it, it will move round amd go down a bit, you always get some dripping back out when fiitting but thats normal, its a very important step.
Flack
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| 16th Nov 2019 3:02 pm |
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