Member Since: 15 Jun 2014
Location: Southampton
Posts: 436
Electrical problems after rear arm replacement
ok where to start.
replaced both upper and rear arms on both sides. had a hell of a todo with the upper rear bush on both sides. Car back together now but I'm getting the following fault codes.
FAULT 1 OF 4
ECU: Transfer Case
CODE:U0122
Lost communication with vehicle dynamics control module
(PERMANENT)
BUS SIGNAL/MESSAGE FAILURE -
MISSING A MESSAGE.
FAULT 2 OF 4
ECU: Ride Level
CODE:U0416
Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module
(PENDING)
BUS SIGNAL/MESSAGE FAILURE -
SIGNAL IS INVALID.
FAULT 3 OF 4
ECU: All Terrain Control
CODE:U0416
Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module
(PENDING)
COMPONENT FAILURE -
UNEXPECTED OPERATION.
FAULT 4 OF 4
ECU: All Terrain Control
CODE:U0421
Invalid data received from ride level control module
(PENDING)
COMPONENT FAILURE -
UNEXPECTED OPERATION.
This has caused problems with the ABS, suspension, terrain and a load of other electrical systems i've never use
When I was doing the job I was struggling with the rear air shocks so using my Nanocom I depressurised all the air bags. To help with access I had to unplug the nearside rear ABS sensor and, nearside rear ride height sensor and I moved a module which is very close to the rear upper nearside mount.
So far I've tried clearing the faults and they come straight back, disconnected the battery and as I had to bleed the rear brakes and had the brake peddle close to the floor while the wife was pumping away (oooerr) I've replaced the brake like switch. I've gone back and check the wiring I've also checked all the under bonnet fuses using a multi-meter.
Anybody got any ideas on what I've ballsed up???
1st Jun 2019 9:20 pm
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
Silly but did you hook the level sensor back onMetal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
1st Jun 2019 9:39 pm
doz
Member Since: 15 Jun 2014
Location: Southampton
Posts: 436
Unfortunately yes.
1st Jun 2019 9:55 pm
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
Are you able to check live values of the suspension, have you checked you haven’t squashed and wires near the upper mountsMetal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
Last edited by Dazz360 on 1st Jun 2019 10:19 pm. Edited 1 time in total
1st Jun 2019 10:18 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
You know you need a 4 wheel alignment?Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
1st Jun 2019 10:19 pm
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
I never had faults throw up though when I did mine understand alignment thoughMetal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
1st Jun 2019 10:20 pm
doz
Member Since: 15 Jun 2014
Location: Southampton
Posts: 436
I can't see how the alignment would cause this issue. It is on the list to be done but until I can get it's bum off the ground it ain't going no where.
Did look at live values for the suspension. I do have a discrepancy of 10 on the rear and obviously all readings are negative due to it being in the weeds at the moment
1st Jun 2019 10:35 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13865
Hi
Plus 1 what narpy has said, it will cause mayhem without getting the alignment done , needs doing when the rear upper and front lower wishbones are done
Also if u unplugged a height sensor with the battery still connected I believe u have to recalibrate the height sensors
But assume u disconnected ur battery before starting
Steering wheel angle also needs to be reset but that can be done when the 4 x wheel alignment is done
Know the feeling of trying to get the old bolts out, been there done that
2nd Jun 2019 12:44 am
doz
Member Since: 15 Jun 2014
Location: Southampton
Posts: 436
Using the Nanocom if I try to calibrate the air system it fails every time. So I can't do that. How does the rear wheel alignment cause issues?I'm getting confused between the electrikery and good old fashion nuts and bolts. Anyway there's no way the cars m9ving as is. She's on the pump stops on all 4 corners I tried moving it on the drive. It's not very pleasant to say the least
2nd Jun 2019 1:48 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4889
If you disconnected a height sensor you will likely need some level of recalibration. That said, it does seem odd you're stuck on the blocks!
I'm not familiar with Namcom, but if you used it to depressurise the suspension, is there also an option in Namcom to "re enable" the system again?
Also, is it possible you damaged the very thin loom wires to one of the sensors?
They are very light and will not take easily to being pushed around!
One thing is probably certain, if it was OK before you began the work and is not OK now. Then it is likely something you did whilst doing the repair that has gone wrong.
Go back over your work again and find the problem, if a wire is damaged it might test your patience but you will get there. Start with the simple things and work upwards from there.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
2nd Jun 2019 2:38 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Can you by accident refit the level arm but have the sensor arm 180 degrees out? seen it on trucks many a time.
2nd Jun 2019 4:03 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13865
doz wrote:
I can't see how the alignment would cause this issue. It is on the list to be done but until I can get it's bum off the ground it ain't going no where.
Did look at live values for the suspension. I do have a discrepancy of 10 on the rear and obviously all readings are negative due to it being in the weeds at the moment
Hi
May i ask, did u disconnect the battery before doing any work plse
Have u tried , disconnecting the battery again, then pulling the height sensor connectors apart and ensuring the pins are ok
On the passenger side there is a large connector block, have u touched that by accident when u done the upper arm
Have u checked ur fuses under the bonnet to ensure the basics have been checked
Alas we’ve all been there in feeling like ur pulling ur hair out
At least there’s plenty very knowledgable members here to help walk u through it step by step
2nd Jun 2019 6:53 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13865
PROFSR G wrote:
If you disconnected a height sensor you will likely need some level of recalibration. That said, it does seem odd you're stuck on the blocks!
I'm not familiar with Namcom, but if you used it to depressurise the suspension, is there also an option in Namcom to "re enable" the system again?
Also, is it possible you damaged the very thin loom wires to one of the sensors?
They are very light and will not take easily to being pushed around!
One thing is probably certain, if it was OK before you began the work and is not OK now. Then it is likely something you did whilst doing the repair that has gone wrong.
Go back over your work again and find the problem, if a wire is damaged it might test your patience but you will get there. Start with the simple things and work upwards from there.
Hi buddy
Hope life is treating u well
Wonder if there’s a broken wire in the large passenger side connector block that sits near the rear upper wishbone ??
As u also say, start with the simple bits first and go from there
2nd Jun 2019 6:56 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13865
Just a thought
After de pressuring the suspension did u re activate it
Have u got lights on the height lever on the centre console plse
Thks
2nd Jun 2019 6:59 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13865
Start EAS Enable and End EAS Enable: The EAS enable is a calibration mode that allows the ECU to fully accept changes in calibration and settings. It is advisable, although not necessary, that before performing any changes to the EAS, that the “Start EAS enable mode” is activated and then subsequently ended after any calibrations or changes in EAS settings. Ending the EAS enable will return the vehicle to “normal” mode. The second advisable use for the “End EAS enable mode” is after flashing or editing the EAS, or any other related ECU that works in direct conjunction with the air suspension, such as the Transfer Case Control Module, that this function is used to return the air suspension back to “normal” mode.
“”””””” The second advisable use for the “End EAS enable mode” is after flashing or editing the EAS, or any other related ECU that works in direct conjunction with the air suspension, such as the Transfer Case Control Module, that this function is used to return the air suspension back to “normal” mode.”””””
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