Member Since: 01 Jun 2011
Location: Fife
Posts: 569
Battery discharged
This morning the D3 wouldn't start. It looked like a battery problem so I jump started it and it went fine.
The voltage was showing 10.3v then once started it went up to 14.3V
I read the codes and this one seemed most relevant. B1A87-68 (2F)
I've recharged the battery but does this code mean I need to replace it or the alternator?
TIA
7th Jul 2019 5:01 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4962
If its the original alternator it might well be on the way out. If it is it well may take the battery with it.
Check all connections and earths as well as the condition of the fuse in the CJB.
If you decide on replacing the alternator make sure its an original Denso!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
7th Jul 2019 5:59 pm
omg!
Member Since: 01 Jun 2011
Location: Fife
Posts: 569
The alternator isn't original but it's probably done 80k miles.
Can I test the alternator rather than just replace it?
7th Jul 2019 6:01 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4962
What make is it?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
7th Jul 2019 6:06 pm
omg!
Member Since: 01 Jun 2011
Location: Fife
Posts: 569
I've been out to have a look but I can't see what make it is.
I'm thinking it was OEM as I used a LR specialist to replace it. The cost of the unit was £250 plus fitting in March 2013, so 6 and a bit years ago.
7th Jul 2019 6:18 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4962
OK so given what you have had done it might seem unlikely that it's fubared. You can test the alternator outputs via a clamp meter and basic output with a an MM. Start with the basics as per above post and the battery itself. That said, if the fault code persists on each start up I'd be leaning toward a new alternator / battery or both.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
7th Jul 2019 6:29 pm
omg!
Member Since: 01 Jun 2011
Location: Fife
Posts: 569
Thanks for your help, much appreciated.
I'll clear the faults and see what happens.
7th Jul 2019 6:32 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20795
My alternator lasted 7 years, after the original lasted 5 years My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 01 Jun 2011
Location: Fife
Posts: 569
It looks as if I may be coming to see you again rather sooner than I'd hoped!
People will start to talk!
7th Jul 2019 6:54 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
If your alternator is reading 14.3v when running and your battery is reading 10.3v before it runs, I'd say your battery is well and truly fecked.
Ask yourself this, "How old is the battery?"Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
7th Jul 2019 7:49 pm
omg!
Member Since: 01 Jun 2011
Location: Fife
Posts: 569
Some more clues you could perhaps help me with.
I put it on a Cetek ms 5 charger and it got to full charge indicated on the charger really quickly, a couple of hours.
I just took it off charge and watched the voltage drop from 12v to 11.94v in about 60 seconds.
Definitely the battery then?
It probably is a good few years old now.
7th Jul 2019 8:12 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
It does look very much like your battery is paggered.
However, as warned by another poster, you need to make sure your alternator is functioning correctly BEFORE you buy a new battery. The reason for this is that a failing alternator will kill a perfectly healthy battery due to it dead shorting and many posters have replaced a dead battery with an expensive brand new one, only for that to get killed off too.
Best option, run your car, stick a multi meter across the battery and check the charging voltage. You should have around 15v at initial start up, dropping to around 13.8v ( ish ) after a short while. Once you're happy the alternator is functioning correctly, switch off, throw away that paggered battery, stick in the brand new one, and Robert should be your mothers brother.
Good luck.Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
battery is 6 lead-acid cells which should each be close to 2.2v fully charged ... so 6 x 2.2 =13.2v
if yours is instantly 12v after full charge, it's not healthy..
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
7th Jul 2019 8:45 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13928
Narpy wrote:
It does look very much like your battery is paggered.
However, as warned by another poster, you need to make sure your alternator is functioning correctly BEFORE you buy a new battery. The reason for this is that a failing alternator will kill a perfectly healthy battery due to it dead shorting and many posters have replaced a dead battery with an expensive brand new one, only for that to get killed off too.
Best option, run your car, stick a multi meter across the battery and check the charging voltage. You should have around 15v at initial start up, dropping to around 13.8v ( ish ) after a short while. Once you're happy the alternator is functioning correctly, switch off, throw away that paggered battery, stick in the brand new one, and Robert should be your mothers brother.
Good luck.
Hi
Hope u don’t mind me asking plse
What was the other test where u use a DMM set to AC and put it across the battery terminals with the Engine running
Many thks as always
7th Jul 2019 8:48 pm
omg!
Member Since: 01 Jun 2011
Location: Fife
Posts: 569
Thanks for all your help guys.
The car wouldn't start after it was apparently fully charged so I swapped the battery out for a spare I have. It started fine and ran at 14.4v with the engine running initially and dropping to 13.98v after a short time. So that looks as if the alternator is OK?
Engine off it settled at about 12.8v after 15 minutes.
I can't see any date markings on the battery but my Tayna account says I bought it 29/12/2014
Funny thing is that the battery I took off increased it's voltage while lying on the garage floor! I'm guessing that's because while it was connected there was some drain on it by the systems that hadn't gone to sleep?
The earth lead was slightly warm when I took the old one off but I'm not sure that means anything?
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum