Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 202
That's what I thought. .
3rd Jun 2017 12:30 pm
PeteHse
Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 202
Great news, I've fitted the arm without cutting any bolts out.
When I clamped the top flexi pipe and the lower flexi pipe and undid the hard brake pipe where it joins the lower flexi I got no brake fluid escaping, merely a couple of drips.
Would this be because of when I clamped them I created a vacuum?
I'm going to bleed regardless but just a little confused. What's the correct way to bleed these? Engine running or key to no2, or does it simply not matter?
3rd Jun 2017 2:46 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
You'd be wise to have an alignment check now.
Rear uppers and front lowers require a 4 wheel alignment otherwise all sorts of lights and suspension errors will occur.
Don't be surprised if when you test drive your Discovery, a whole host of bells and whistles start sounding.Mods:
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3rd Jun 2017 3:29 pm
trainmanone
Member Since: 19 Dec 2014
Location: stockport
Posts: 366
PeteHse wrote:
Is there a way of doing this without disconnecting the brake lines?
make a cut in bracket on new arm bend back, place pipe in bend forward back in line job done
3rd Jun 2017 3:48 pm
PeteHse
Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 202
Narpy wrote:
You'd be wise to have an alignment check now.
Rear uppers and front lowers require a 4 wheel alignment otherwise all sorts of lights and suspension errors will occur.
Don't be surprised if when you test drive your Discovery, a whole host of bells and whistles start sounding.
Truth be told I measured and checked the position of the bolt I removed, im under no illusion it won't be perfect but I've just took it for a drive and got no lights so it can't be a mile off. I'm due new tyres soon so the tracking can hold on till then, I'll probably change the other side prior to tyres and be done with it.
3rd Jun 2017 4:27 pm
PeteHse
Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 202
trainmanone wrote:
PeteHse wrote:
Is there a way of doing this without disconnecting the brake lines?
make a cut in bracket on new arm bend back, place pipe in bend forward back in line job done
This was going to be my plan of attack and I think what discomikey alluded to but I applied a little heat to the join between the flexi and the hard pipe and it undid nice and easy thankfully.
I took my time today unlike usual and it paid off, although I did have to go buy a 21mm spanner as I couldn't get a socket on the top bolt.
3rd Jun 2017 4:29 pm
Disgoeshere
Member Since: 06 Dec 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 278
Well done out of interest what height setting did you use to do the job please.Andy
07MY (8A) D3 2.7 TDV6 Manual SE
New oil pump, water pump, cam belt - DM
New prop, new clutch TVLR,Beanie Grille,Black & Silver Badges
All Filters, oil change,clock on dash,4x4 info,RLD Protector,silicone hoses
Front and Rear TRW low Dust dtec V8 brake upgrade,new oil sump
4th Jun 2017 10:42 am
PeteHse
Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 202
Had the car in normal suspension mode, then jacked the lower wishbone till the centre of the driveshaft nut was 485mm from the highest point in the arch before tightening everything up.
4th Jun 2017 11:43 am
Disgoeshere
Member Since: 06 Dec 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 278
Thank,s for that great help Andy
07MY (8A) D3 2.7 TDV6 Manual SE
New oil pump, water pump, cam belt - DM
New prop, new clutch TVLR,Beanie Grille,Black & Silver Badges
All Filters, oil change,clock on dash,4x4 info,RLD Protector,silicone hoses
Front and Rear TRW low Dust dtec V8 brake upgrade,new oil sump
4th Jun 2017 2:01 pm
Williams1507
Member Since: 02 Jul 2017
Location: London
Posts: 3
PeteHse - can you please contact me re a post you put up in 2015 regarding a cambelt change to a car and Northview 4x4 specialist that you couldn't find - I have brought a car from the same place a you and my service book states the same thing! Help would be greatly appreciative
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