Member Since: 11 Mar 2009
Location: Somerset
Posts: 3551
Rear top knuckle bush replacement
Not sure if it's been covered but found an easy way to remove the top knuckle bush in situ with or without a seized cut bolt stuck in the bush.
Tools needed to remove bush and install bush/ball joint=
38mm socket,Hydraulic or manual 2 leg puller with 4" legs and a set of 6" legs
Click image to enlarge
If you didn't have to cut your old bolt out then put the bolt back in the bush,and if you did cut your bolt then don't worry as the hole in the bush is already filled.
Click image to enlarge
Fit your puller with 4" legs and set it up on your knuckle like so.
Click image to enlarge
Apply pressure to the puller until the bush starts to move then let of on the puller a bit and adjust your legs so the bush missis the legs on the way out.
Click image to enlarge
Keep going until the bush is out.
Click image to enlarge
Now replace your pullers 4" legs with 6" legs take the new bush the 38mm socket and an old bolt and set it up like this.
Click image to enlarge
Apply pressure until the bush firmly started release and adjust your legs again so the bush clears the legs as it's being pressed in.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Keep going until it looks central.
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Remove puller and it should look like this.
Click image to enlarge
it doesn't take long there's no beating the out of anything and it's pretty much effortless.
It may help someone out so thought I would share Wanted D4s non runners pm for competitive price.
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3rd Nov 2013 12:08 am
Allan_T
Member Since: 10 Sep 2012
Location: Northampton
Posts: 1034
looks easy enough, I'll add it to the preventative maintenance to-do list.GAP IID Pro Multi Vehicle Defender L316 2007-2015 - Discovery 3 - Discovery 4 - Discovery Sport L550 - Freelander 2 - Range Rover Evoque L538 - Range Rover L322 - Range Rover L405 - Range Rover Sport L320 - Range Rover Sport L494 Electrical Fault Diagnostics
3rd Nov 2013 12:33 am
Advanced Factors Site Sponsor
Member Since: 27 Nov 2012
Location: Southampton
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Nice write up Kris, this knowledge will come in handy next time you are over Paul Redding
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3rd Nov 2013 8:57 am
woody32 Site Sponsor
Member Since: 11 Mar 2009
Location: Somerset
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Steve short and sweet,unlike your rear arms
We will have to arrange a Saturday Wanted D4s non runners pm for competitive price.
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3rd Nov 2013 9:52 am
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
I use something similar that can do both top and bottom bush in situ. The bottom bush is one way if I can find a link to the tool set it's been usefully for many tasks.
Great simple write up and it's usually the top bush that goes. Bodsys Brake Bible
Yep, bottom bush can be done in situ as well - more awkward, but very do-able - though I did borrow Bodsy's most excellent press kit. Though it wouldn't have worked if the bolts has to be cut off.
But as mine is off-roaded quite a bit and my bolts came out fine, I suspect few will need cutting.Mark.
2006, D3 SE Auto - gone but not forgotten.
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3rd Nov 2013 10:27 am
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
This is the kit I've used.
On a hydraulic press, it took abou 1.5t to press the same bush out, which isn't much really and the hydraulic pullers work really well.
This just allows exact sized 'sockets' to be used for all sorts of stuff. Expensive, but worth it.
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3rd Nov 2013 10:28 am
woody32 Site Sponsor
Member Since: 11 Mar 2009
Location: Somerset
Posts: 3551
That looks like a good bit of kit for the price just added it to my watch list Wanted D4s non runners pm for competitive price.
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Mobile or workshop,PM for details.
3rd Nov 2013 12:26 pm
Johnny Oxford
Member Since: 14 Dec 2014
Location: Chinnor
Posts: 531
thanks
once again this forum comes to my rescue - passed MOT recently but have had an increasingly bad 'creak' from the rear driver wheel when going over bumps, getting in and out of car etc.
Had the D3 serviced and my Indie could not be certain which bush was causing the noise, despite using a stethoscope it was hard to isolate.
I took the plunge after reading a few threads on here and decided to chance it on my own DIY as all things were pointing to the upper hub bush.
did the job this morning, 10 year old D3 and I have to be honest, I had to go and go out and borrow a hydraulic bearing puller (very similar to the one shown in the pics above) - there was no way that old bush was coming out without that - so be prepared.
I had to cut through the old bolt, I actually cut through the nut at 2 different angles until it was weak enough to break, that was pretty easy.
It was a bit tricky lining up the new bush square and pull it in with the same arrangement as above, but a lot of swearing, and 4 hours later, my squeak has gone.
My advice is dont assume that you will be able to hammer or jack that old bush out. I tried jacking it with a variety of sockets etc and some M12 thread, to no avail - it was in there solid. Once I had the puller it was much easier, if a little awkward.
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20th Oct 2016 4:27 pm
blue meanie D3 Decade
Member Since: 04 Aug 2005
Location: Newbury
Posts: 6861
I did both top and bottom knuckle bushes on my 11 year old D3 with the exact same set in the link a few weeks back:
It does take a fair bit of pressure on the rod but then just 'pops' and it's away when removing them. The nuts have some washers with bearings between them so imagine just using sockets plus normal nuts/washers/rod would make it more tricky and theeeeennn......???
20th Oct 2016 4:45 pm
SpiderBaby D3 Decade
Member Since: 21 Sep 2007
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 1409
Even if the bolt is seized you can still do it with the press kit Bodsy linked.
Cut the bolt flush and use the kit with a vice rather than the bolts supplied - same result. It what I did.I see no ships........
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