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Snapped bolt......
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Iceman08
 


Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284

United Kingdom 2010 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 HSE Auto Santorini BlackDiscovery 4
Snapped bolt......

Any ideas how to remove it??





I was trying to get everything loose in preparation for changing my AC condenser tomorrow but the last bolt wouldn't budge and then snapped Banging Head
   
Post #166687813th Jun 2016 5:04 pm
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brightsparking
 


Member Since: 20 Jun 2013
Location: Perthshire
Posts: 175

Scotland 2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Tonga GreenDiscovery 3

If access is as easy as it looks then drilling it out with ever increasing drill sizes should do the job.then re-tap the threads
  
Post #166688013th Jun 2016 5:10 pm
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Robbie
 


Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
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United Kingdom 2013 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Baltic BlueDiscovery 4

I'm not sure which bolt that is or how much, if anything, is protruding.

Spraying it with penetrating spray and leaving it is never wasted. Same goes for heat but often there are plastic, rubber or flammable parts in the way. Then check for access from the other side as many bolts on the D3 are not in blind holes. If access from the other side can be achieved then this is the side to work from as it gives you the option of pulling clean threads through the hole rather than rusty ones. Depending on access either mole grips or a fluted socket (Irwins) will do the job.

If there is insufficient bolt to grip on the reverse then drilling out is the best option. Before drilling with increasing bit sizes give the bolt a good whack with a hammer and punch as this is often enough to free the corrosive bond.

Having LH as well as RH bits gives you a choice of side and direction to spin the fastener once sufficient material has been removed from the centre of the bolt. Even when freeing a bolt from a blind hole 95% of the time I find the broken fastener will spin out with a LH drill bit well before I get to a bit size that threatens the existing threads. For the remaining 5% the tapping bits come out to play.

Work smart and look at all options before attacking it. I have seen many a chap spend ages trying to remove a sheared bolt from the 'normal' side when a quick twist from the other side would have done the job.

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Post #166688613th Jun 2016 5:34 pm
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beanie
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Member Since: 12 Mar 2011
Location: In the garage messing with something
Posts: 14336

England 2013 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 GS Auto Fuji WhiteDiscovery 4

Can you get a mig welder to it?
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Owner of the original "Beanie" grille
D4 & RRS style D3 grilles made to order
  
Post #166699213th Jun 2016 8:20 pm
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WillyEckerslike
 


Member Since: 22 Aug 2013
Location: Out in the world
Posts: 967

2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Zambezi SilverDiscovery 3

That looks like it's the front end carrier (that the headlights and grille slot into). It's made of some weird alloy, and is quite brittle.

From memory, it lifts out when all the bolts are out. So you may get away with removing all the other fasteners and then lifting that panel out, so that you can attack the snapped bolt with grips when it's out in the open.
  
Post #166706313th Jun 2016 9:49 pm
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Iceman08
 


Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284

United Kingdom 2010 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 HSE Auto Santorini BlackDiscovery 4

Thanks all Bow down

I tried drilling it out but was getting nowhere, it must be made of kevlar!! I took Robbie's advice and took 5 out to reevaluate the situation!

I removed the wheel arch and the arch liner so I could then spray it with penetrating oil front and back, then a lot of patiently turning back and forth with the mole grips loosened it enough to the point I could remove it.

Thats was after I snapped two screw extractor bits and about 5 drill bits!

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Post #166709613th Jun 2016 10:57 pm
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Robbie
 


Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
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Posts: 17932

United Kingdom 2013 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Baltic BlueDiscovery 4

Glad the advice helped. I'm not a fan of screw-in extractors / ez outs. The last thing I need is broken hardened metal stuck in the fastener.

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 Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948

Battery & Quiescent Current Drain Testing

Diagnostics for:
Defender, FL2, D3, D4, Evoque, RRS & FFRR
A not-for-profit enterprise


 
 
Post #166715014th Jun 2016 7:45 am
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