Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4647
This might be clearer, but the size has gone berserk. (Edit Got it now )
Click image to enlarge
Bearings 1 and 4 are good. 3 is OK, 2 has seen action, but could be worse. I then pastigauged the clearances:
Click image to enlarge
yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
4th Mar 2021 1:02 am
Dreamfixer
Member Since: 04 Mar 2021
Location: wales
Posts: 9
fantastic work breg90. this is almost the same as what i came up with to do mine. got some heavy steel and some heavy duty timber to make a gantry, but couldnt find the answers i was looking for and then someone steered me to here. raising the car the initial lift was what i was sticking on to enable the cross beams to be inserted. how far did it need to be raised before they would go in and clear the bell housing. i was going to weld up some beams to bolt to the body to chassis mount points and use a block and tackle either side
4th Mar 2021 11:31 pm
Dreamfixer
Member Since: 04 Mar 2021
Location: wales
Posts: 9
fantastic work ,this is very similar to what i want to do to my rrs. like you i bought some stee land some heavy duty timber but i couldnt find what i was looking for anywhere and someone directed me to here. yay. i was going to make a ganrty eithe r side and raise the cab to enable some beams to be put across but was stuck on the initial lift. how high did it need to go to clear the bell housing and how many hours to strip down ready . many thanks carl
4th Mar 2021 11:42 pm
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 348
Dreamfixer,
Lifting off the body - you can pass abeam through at the rear fairly easily. At the front I think it was 4 sleeper thickness before the been would pass under.
I had a sweat on with the 'Jenga' nature of it. But it was quite stable. I did skim the sleepers in my mill to make then properly flat though. Actually the COG is towards the rear so it would balance on the rear beam and only one stack of timber under one front sill - don't recommend it though!
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
5th Mar 2021 12:46 am
sdfuk
Member Since: 09 Jun 2009
Location: Maldon
Posts: 158
That's amazing. Fair play to you.
5th Mar 2021 11:41 am
Bungle
Member Since: 07 Apr 2015
Location: Wanborough
Posts: 254
PROFSR G wrote:
That's a good price for that tool and it's a quality item. Even so, I thought I have a go at beating it whilst watching the Chianti disappear.
As a comparison, Advance Factors £80 + VAT. Tool Academy £70.38 + VAT. EBAY £84.46. Island 4x4 £64.99 + VAT, and from Abinsala (in Switzerland )
Hmm, but since the beginning of the year I bet the costs of getting it into the UK will push that price up considerably
5th Mar 2021 12:11 pm
Dreamfixer
Member Since: 04 Mar 2021
Location: wales
Posts: 9
Re: Rusty boot floor / Body removal
Breg90 wrote:
Thought I would post up my attempt at sorting some pretty poor paintwork under the rear 1/2 of my body on my 08 plate manual Disco 3.
Ideally wanted another 90, but the boss vetoed that and stated that it must have family car potential. So I bought the most cost effective manual, non sunroof Disco 3 I could find. I knew it could have been a bit better underneath but the budget didn't stretch to a better car. I have had the car for 3 years now and its been pretty reliable and I do all my own maintenance.
Apart from family holidays, carting kids about, commuting to Aberdeen, etc, the car gets used at the local LR club for tyros. I also did Mudmaster competing against the army in it. It now has nice tree scratches down either side.... It goes surprisingly well off road. Until it doesn't, then the immense weight of the thing is immediately obvious.
So the master plan was to lift the body off and tackle the boot floor rust so that it doesn't end up as scrap in a couple of years.
After some asking around it became clear that lifting off the body was the only way to go. It also became clear that this was a DIY job as to pay some one to this properly would be ruinous in terms of time.
So I spent quite a while thinking up a plan while driving to work (Falkirk to Aberdeen on a Monday morning). Along came corona virus and I decided that is was a superb lock down project. So while the idiots were buying loo roll on the last Friday before lockdown I bought steel.
I've actually now got the body off, but though that writing up how I did it would be of potential interest.
fantastic work breg90. this is almost the same as what i came up with to do mine. got some heavy steel and some heavy duty timber to make a gantry, but couldnt find the answers i was looking for and then someone steered me to here. raising the car the initial lift was what i was sticking on to enable the cross beams to be inserted. how far did it need to be raised before they would go in and clear the bell housing. i was going to weld up some beams to bolt to the body to chassis mount points and use a block and tackle either side
Adrian
5th Mar 2021 1:26 pm
Dreamfixer
Member Since: 04 Mar 2021
Location: wales
Posts: 9
Breg90 wrote:
Dreamfixer,
Lifting off the body - you can pass abeam through at the rear fairly easily. At the front I think it was 4 sleeper thickness before the been would pass under.
I had a sweat on with the 'Jenga' nature of it. But it was quite stable. I did skim the sleepers in my mill to make then properly flat though. Actually the COG is towards the rear so it would balance on the rear beam and only one stack of timber under one front sill - don't recommend it though!
Adrian
sorry for the multiple entries still getting used to the site.
so to be clear did you use 2x bottle jack at the front and 2x scissor at the back for the initial lift ?
5th Mar 2021 1:38 pm
Dreamfixer
Member Since: 04 Mar 2021
Location: wales
Posts: 9
Breg90 wrote:
Dreamfixer,
Lifting off the body - you can pass abeam through at the rear fairly easily. At the front I think it was 4 sleeper thickness before the been would pass under.
I had a sweat on with the 'Jenga' nature of it. But it was quite stable. I did skim the sleepers in my mill to make then properly flat though. Actually the COG is towards the rear so it would balance on the rear beam and only one stack of timber under one front sill - don't recommend it though!
Adrian
hi Breg90, sorry for multiple entries keep writing in the wrong place. to be clear did you use 2 x bottle jack at the front and 2 x scissor at the back?. would i be right in thinking the height to clear the the body is about 900 mm? . want to make sure i have enough room in garage. many thanx carl
5th Mar 2021 1:59 pm
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 348
Dreamfixer,
I put a body removal write up in a word Doc in one of the earlier pages - have a look. I used 2 x transit scissor jacks (each corner at rear) and 2 x LR disco 1 bottle jacks (each corner at front).
Body lift needed:
Assuming you are pulling the chassis out forwards, then only the body work that you need to consider is the crossbeam at the bottom of the front grill - it needs to pass over the engine. You don't need as much body lift as you think to achieve this. Just measure from the top of the engine cover down to the bottom of the front grill and add a bit. I'd give your self some wriggle room in that though.
However to comfortably work under the body you may want it higher up. I have the body jacked up so that the bottom of the sills are 1.28m off the ground. That's a comfortable height to work under. For reference this looks like this:
Clearly you can get the chassis out with the body much lower if you want.
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
5th Mar 2021 7:21 pm
jenseneverest
Member Since: 12 Jun 2017
Location: somewhere
Posts: 762
How did the crank journals measure ? Particularly the one that started to pick up ?
7th Mar 2021 11:28 pm
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 348
Jenseneveret,
I have not yet measured with a micrometer. But the clearances were OK using plastigauge on an initial check. I need to do some more in depth checks, but sorting out parts sources for the engine at the minute.
I did check the crank for crack using a DPI spray. I'm not trained in this, but followed some basic good practice:
1/. De greased
2/. Sprayed with red ink
3/. Waited 20 min for it to soak into any cracks
4/. Cleaned the red dye off the surface
5/. Sprayed with developer:
All looked good. You can see one bleed out (2nd big end journal from top of picture) but it's in a low stress area in my view.
I have not plastigauged the big end journals yet as the pistons are a pain to pull up to the crank (engine upside down on stand) due to no room to get your hand in and you are creating a vacuum in the cylinder as you try and pull them up to the crank. So plan B was to whip out the glow plugs (I'm changing them anyway) to allow easier pistion movement. But a week of soaking them with WD 40 and they still don't move with the 30 Nm setting on the glow plug removal air gun. So bought some of the Kroil magic penetration fluid of ebay. The can is faulty..... arrrggghhh!!!
Mean while the big end bearing shells all look like so:
There is a 'wipe'/wear zone in the same place on each bearing. I have seen similar wear on other people threads.
Mean while I think I am going to get the rear diff built up to get some progress satisfaction while I work out the engine bearing way forward.
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
14th Mar 2021 3:51 pm
jenseneverest
Member Since: 12 Jun 2017
Location: somewhere
Posts: 762
Hi Adrian,
Sorry i have no experience with the dye your using either, i come from an engine builder background but 20 years ago in Southern Africa. We had a crack tester in a dark room that involved mounting the crank in an electronic jig above a press. Current was passed through the crankshaft, a special dye was sprayed onto the crank and UV light used to make any cracks visible. The press was used to flex the crank slightly 2 to 3 thousands of an inch to be sure we did not miss anything, turning it and checking in several places.
When we did find cracks, they were nearly always on a journals radius.
I saw your other thread with regards the chart and colour coded bearings, i too have seen that info somewhere, will have a look and see if i can find it.
14th Mar 2021 5:10 pm
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 348
Jenseneverest,
My statement might be slightly miss leading, at work you would need to be 'trained' to use the dye penetrant spray. But it's not much more complicated than the sequence I described. I also see the journal radius as the high risk location. But the spray can means you do the full crank!
I believe you are referring to fluorescent dye penetrant. It's more sensitive than the technique I used. slightly compressing the crank would also open up any crack making it more visible. I used the basic DPI technique as I had it to hand.
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
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Even so, I thought I have a go at beating it whilst watching the Chianti disappear. 
)
(Edit Got it now 
)
