Member Since: 03 Jul 2016
Location: Essex
Posts: 172
Awesome, this is so good, stay well!
25th Jan 2021 1:21 pm
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 347
Been a bit lazy on a few fronts, did nothing in December and only got back on it in January....
Cleaning up suspension parts:
Before:
After:
Click image to enlarge
Fitted new bearings and back plates. Back plates got a quick rub down and paint after some good advice via forum members.
The started on the rear anti vibration weights:
Blasting:
Drying in the oven after washing in salt removal solution and a pressure wash:
Warming in the house before paint:
And painted:
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
7th Feb 2021 1:48 pm
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26699
Looking good.
It was one of problems I encountered during my Series 2a restoration last winter. Getting parts dry and warm enough for painting. Especially bigger bits! I ended up buying some cheap halogen heaters from Screwfix and using them to directly heat panels and parts prior to spraying.
7th Feb 2021 3:24 pm
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 347
Got some more items painted:
Fuel cooler bracket and fuel filter bracket:
Cooler bracket looking rough as found:
Fuel filter metal work was much the same, so a blast, salt removal wash and paint later:
Then finished the front suspension uprights:
There is still masking tape on that where the wheel bearing fits etc.
We then had the snow - This was the view from my home office desk:
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
28th Feb 2021 11:23 pm
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 347
I then moved onto the engine. Initial plan was to change the glow plugs (seem to work, but crazy not to have new when the engine is out). Then I decided I wasn't going to all this effort to have the crank snap in a years time. So that meant the crank was coming out to check for cracks. I knew I was going to do this, but sort of didn't admit it to myself for a while. Any way engine went on the engine stand and I started stripping:
Bought a timing locking kit of ebay. Discovered that the flywheel locking pin for a manual gearbox was 0.15mm to big. Seems this a common problem, so some emery paper sorted the issue.
Then it was belts off and a front end strip down. One of the metal cooling pipes looked crusty, so it went in the blaster. This produced a what looked like a pin hole that a scribe easily enlarged.... Looks like I need a new pipe. Not managed to find this yet on the usual range of internet suppliers:
Timing belt exposed:
Looks like I have the uprated oil pump already from the last belt change:
Broke my breaker bar undoing the crank pully bolt. No extension tubes were used to abuse it honest. Halfords replaced no quibbles....
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
28th Feb 2021 11:53 pm
jenseneverest
Member Since: 12 Jun 2017
Location: somewhere
Posts: 760
Nice, this is turning into a full on rebuild
I take it the crank will be checked by an engine shop under UV detector ?
1st Mar 2021 12:20 am
Bungle
Member Since: 07 Apr 2015
Location: Wanborough
Posts: 254
I had to laugh when I saw the Sealey lifetime warantee on their breaker bar, small footnote saying the knuckle is a consumable and therefore not covered. As if anything other than the knuckle was going to break!
1st Mar 2021 10:23 am
Moo D3 Decade
Member Since: 13 Aug 2010
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 13882
Great post and write up. New Defender L663 110 SE (known as Noddy!)
Sold Volvo XC90 R-Design (known as Basil)
Sold - D4 HSE (Known as Gerty)
No longer the Old Buses original owner
231,000 miles and counting
05 S manual owned from March 2005
D4 Face lifted
Still original injectors and turbo
V8 Front brakes
BAS Remap, Allisport Intercooler and deCat
EGRs blanked
T-Max split charge
Hanibal Expeedition rack
Prospeed ladder
Duratrac tyres
IID BT
BAS FBH control
1st Mar 2021 11:57 am
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
Good job it wasn't the 3ltr engine the crank bolt us unbelievably tightAndrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
1st Mar 2021 1:20 pm
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 347
The sump came off next:
Then the stiffening ladder giving this:
I had a clean up and measured the end float at 0.28mm
Then did some marking up so I knew what came off where:
Then off with the main bearings and big ends. I tried not to remove the crank position reluctor ring, but the crank seal can't come off with out removing it. After some moving of the crank around my bench I decided that I was going to end up with the crank seal marking a journal, so off it came.Series one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
3rd Mar 2021 12:09 am
defector
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1419
If i remember correctly, i managed to order the trigger ring from Citroen as it was much cheaper than Landrover, however, it may be available elsewhere now.
3rd Mar 2021 12:39 am
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
You will also need a fitting tool to fit the new trigger ringAndrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
3rd Mar 2021 7:23 am
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 347
Just bought the laser tool for re fitting the crank shaft position ring:
£74 including delivery - cheapest tool I could find.
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
3rd Mar 2021 11:06 pm
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 347
So next steps were to inspect the crank and the main bearings. Crank appears fine, but I have not measured up the journal yet. But visually they are perfect.
Main bearings:
Bearings 1 and 4 are good. 3 is OK, 2 has seen action, but could be worse. I then pastigauged the clearances:
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
4th Mar 2021 12:45 am
jenseneverest
Member Since: 12 Jun 2017
Location: somewhere
Posts: 760
pics are not great, looks like you been very lucky
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