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Bushwanderer
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
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Feeding HD cables from the aux. battery. |
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Hi All,
I have just ordered the SC80-LR multi battery charger from Traxide (in Aust.)
My intention is to charge a dual battery located in the engine bay and, also, a third battery in the caravan. Ideally, to do this, I need to run some heavy duty cables from the dual battery compartment to a location near the tow hitch. In my D1, I did this by feeding the cables through the "roof cavity" (ie. the gap between the roof and the roof lining).
I suspect that this is not an option in the D3, however, due to the presence of air bags in the A pillar.
Has anyone fed such cables through in the D3, and how did you accomplish it?
Many Thanks,
Peter
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6th Dec 2007 3:42 am |
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simon_arch1
Member Since: 10 Apr 2006
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 502
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Interesting post...
And I'm sure Drivesafe/Traxide will chime in...
I ran out of time to fit my 2nd battery, so had it fitted by a LR specialist in melbourne. I had the aux battery charger/monitor and the dual power outlet fro the rear to fit. Traxide provided extra heavy duty cable included with the power outlet kit - my LR specialist didn't use it... said it was too hard to run in the D3 - so used a (still HD, but not as thick) different cable. The cable provide by Traxide would I'm sure carry sufficient power to to do what you want - but where to run it... good question.
Sorry - no answer for you though
Simon D3 - Buckingham Blue, SE, TDV6, 06 model; chipped; underbody armour; Mickey Thompson ATZ 275/65-18 AND MAXXIS Bighorn muddies; rear wheel carrier from 4x4intelligence.com; iPOD aux connection! GME 3200 UHF - aerial mounted on wheel carrier ; LR roof rails/cross bars; Autosafe cargo barrier, Safari Snorkel; Traxide - aux battery; ARB bull bar with Tigerz11 winch; Lightforce 240 XGT driving lights (mitchell bros tow hitch to come)
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6th Dec 2007 5:37 am |
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SKP
Member Since: 07 Feb 2007
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 219
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When I purchased my D3 in June 2005, I had my dealer (MLR) run the cable to the "Anderson plug" in the rear for my Tvan, (and also fit the brake controller).
They used a subcontractor who I asked to run the cables through the chassis rail.
When I got my D3 home I checked his work; he had run the positive and negative wires (unsheaved) on the inside exterior face of the chassis, at one point less than one inch (25mm) from the exhaust header, all "secured" by plastic cable ties
(Would have been interesting on a long trip when the insulation melted off the wires and they fused together) ( they were direct wired to the battery terminals)
I then spent the weekend sheaving the positive cable and running it through the chassis rail.(connected the negative to the earth in the tail light area)
I used a drain pipe cleaning "spring" to pull a cord through. Then used the cord to pull the cable, worked well.
I also fitted a cut-out switch next to the battery so some "bright spark" could not short the "Anderson" plug.
I suppose I should have asked for a refund of the $400 odd they charged me, But I was so p d off I let it lie.
Anyway, Peter, to answer your question, its not that difficult to run the wires through the chassis rail, the only fiddly bit is over the rear axle. I am sure that if you had a length of that yellow plastic floor joining strip that sparkys use, it would be a breeze.
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6th Dec 2007 7:51 am |
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Bushwanderer
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
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simon_arch1 wrote:Interesting post...
And I'm sure Drivesafe/Traxide will chime in...
I ran out of time to fit my 2nd battery, so had it fitted by a LR specialist in melbourne. I had the aux battery charger/monitor and the dual power outlet fro the rear to fit. Traxide provided extra heavy duty cable included with the power outlet kit - my LR specialist didn't use it... said it was too hard to run in the D3 - so used a (still HD, but not as thick) different cable. The cable provide by Traxide would I'm sure carry sufficient power to to do what you want - but where to run it... good question.
Sorry - no answer for you though
Simon
Hi Simon,
In fact, Traxide is keeping quiet on this one, so I suspect that Tim hasn't done it - yet. In fact, it was Tim who suggested that I contact this forum for ideas. I'm sure that he is watching closely.
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7th Dec 2007 2:03 am |
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Bushwanderer
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
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SKP wrote:When I purchased my D3 in June 2005, I had my dealer (MLR) run the cable to the "Anderson plug" in the rear for my Tvan, (and also fit the brake controller).
They used a subcontractor who I asked to run the cables through the chassis rail.
When I got my D3 home I checked his work; he had run the positive and negative wires (unsheaved) on the inside exterior face of the chassis, at one point less than one inch (25mm) from the exhaust header, all "secured" by plastic cable ties
(Would have been interesting on a long trip when the insulation melted off the wires and they fused together) ( they were direct wired to the battery terminals)
I then spent the weekend sheaving the positive cable and running it through the chassis rail.(connected the negative to the earth in the tail light area)
I used a drain pipe cleaning "spring" to pull a cord through. Then used the cord to pull the cable, worked well.
I also fitted a cut-out switch next to the battery so some "bright spark" could not short the "Anderson" plug.
I suppose I should have asked for a refund of the $400 odd they charged me, But I was so p d off I let it lie.
Anyway, Peter, to answer your question, its not that difficult to run the wires through the chassis rail, the only fiddly bit is over the rear axle. I am sure that if you had a length of that yellow plastic floor joining strip that sparkys use, it would be a breeze.
Bloody Hell!!! Now you know why I want to do the job myself.
I have yet to look, but are there "logical" chassis rail entry/exit points for the cable?
I do have some "yellow tongue" but am not sure that it will be long enough to do the job.
Nonetheless, it looks like feeding the cable through the roof cavity is a "non-goer". Therefore, I'll have to investigate the "chassis" option.
Thanks to both you & Simon for your replies.
Peter
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7th Dec 2007 2:15 am |
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drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
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Bushwanderer wrote:In fact, Traxide is keeping quiet on this one, so I suspect that Tim hasn't done it - yet. In fact, it was Tim who suggested that I contact this forum for ideas. I'm sure that he is watching closely.
Too right, I want to find out how to do it so I can save time when I do my wife’s D3.
Cheers. 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
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7th Dec 2007 4:49 am |
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PCH
Member Since: 12 Jan 2005
Location: Anywhere but work
Posts: 812
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Peter,
I just so happened to do this job of running 6metres of 6B&S cable along the top of the LH chassis rail from the cranking battery to the rear of the D3. It isn't hard but a bit time consuming. Running the cable took about 2 hours of mucking around. Wiring and crimping took me another 2 hours.
Traxide supplied me everything I needed for the job and you need 6 metres of cable if you are to follow how I routed the cable. But there is a difference between your requirement and mine. I already have Traxide's SC40's to control my Aux battery in the D3 so I decided with Tim to add another Aux controller for the trailer's batteries. So you may need to adapt how to run the battery cable on he RHS which should be similar to what I describe below.
What I'm about to explain is how I ran my cable and I don't guarantee this is the only or even the best way but it was the only way I could see how to do it to ensure it was not going to get damaged from off-roading. I didn't have anything to push the cable through the chassis rail like SKP did so I didn't try his method.
First thing to do is fit split automotive conduit to the battery cable. You can buy this from Jaycar, Dick Smith or electrical wholesalers (AWM, Middys etc...).
Second thing is to drop the auto transmission splash shield off for clearer access to the LH chassis rail near the front LH wheel. 6 * 10mm bolts.
I inserted the cranking battery end of the cable up between the LH inner plastic guard and the engine bay. The cable comes out behind the coolant and power steering reserviour. Leave enough slack here to make sure when you fit the lugs that you can reach the SC80's circuit breaker and one of the earth studs in front of the cranking battery/fuse box. I chose deliberately not to run the cable on the inside of the engine bay along the exhaust headers due to heat.
I then cable tied the battery cable alongside an existing wire loom in the LH front wheel well. I decided that if LR can run a cable in the wheel well then I can to as long as it is protected with conduit. The LR wire loom then travels to the top of the LH chassis rail behind the front wheel well. I followed the LH chassis rail and layed the cable on the top all the way until I reached the rear diff and then followed the rear A/C pipes to make sure the cable would never be close to the LH rear half shaft.
I then removed the spare wheel so I could easily access the LH chassis rail and then followed a steel member that is covered by the spare wheel and cable tied the battery cable to the trailer plug wiring that runs across the rear bumper's steel cross member.
I fitted long cable ties around the chassis rail to hold the battery cable in place. I fitted shorter cable ties where necessary to prevent the battery cable chaffing or moving.
At the rear I fitted the 50 Amp Anderson plug with a bit of slack in the cable to allow me to "hide" the plug back under the bumper when not in use. I cable tie the plug up out of the way when not in use. Tim supplied me with the dust cover which I also fitted.
I checked with Tim if it was okay to mount the SC80 in the engine bay in front of the cranking battery/fuse box where it may be prone to moisture. Tim said this should be okay. I screwed the SC80 to the front of the plastic box and also screwed the circuit breaker to the SC80 and wired it accoridng to Tim's label on the SC80.
Hope this helps and isn't confusng.
Chris 2011 Discovery 4 (MY12) SDV6 HSE with General Grabber AT's, Traxide Aux Battery system, custom rear drawers and Autosafe half height cargo barrier
Gone - 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE
ARB Bull Bar, Warn 9.5XP Winch, IPF D/Lights, Cooper STT's, LR Raised Air Intake, Traxide aux battery system, custom drawers and half height Autosafe cargo barrier, Mitchell Bros 4x4 tow hitch
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7th Dec 2007 5:04 am |
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Bushwanderer
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
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drivesafe wrote:Bushwanderer wrote:In fact, Traxide is keeping quiet on this one, so I suspect that Tim hasn't done it - yet. In fact, it was Tim who suggested that I contact this forum for ideas. I'm sure that he is watching closely.
Too right, I want to find out how to do it so I can save time when I do my wife’s D3.
Cheers.
Hi Drivesafe,
If you are prepared to wait until I get the technique sorted, I could do your wife's car for you (for the right price).
PS: "Stuff" arrived in good order & condition. Many Thanks
Last edited by Bushwanderer on 8th Dec 2007 2:25 am. Edited 1 time in total
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8th Dec 2007 1:40 am |
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Bushwanderer
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
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Unnecessary quote removed
Wow Chris,
I very detailed & helpful response.
All I need now is the time & the weather to investigate in more detail. (Oh, & I'll probably make use of a special tool - my neighbour! ).
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8th Dec 2007 1:50 am |
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garryc
Member Since: 08 May 2007
Location: Adelaide Hills
Posts: 259
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Re: Feeding HD cables from the aux. battery. |
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Bushwanderer wrote:Hi All,
I have just ordered the SC80-LR multi battery charger from Traxide (in Aust.)
My intention is to charge a dual battery located in the engine bay and, also, a third battery in the caravan. Ideally, to do this, I need to run some heavy duty cables from the dual battery compartment to a location near the tow hitch. In my D1, I did this by feeding the cables through the "roof cavity" (ie. the gap between the roof and the roof lining).
I suspect that this is not an option in the D3, however, due to the presence of air bags in the A pillar.
Has anyone fed such cables through in the D3, and how did you accomplish it?
Many Thanks,
Peter
Peter, I have run cables for my rear power outlet and HF radio inside the car where the Land Rover looms are. There are two chassis bushes on the fire wall in the aux. battery area. One is up high and to the right of the steering column and the other smaller one is at the bottom left. Both are difficult to get at. The lower one is more accessible from inside the car. I used the upper one for the rear power outlet and run it on the LH side channel and used the LH lower one for the HF radio and run it on the drivers side channel. To get at those areas you need to remove the side foot panels in the driver and passenger foot wells and the plastic kick strips with the Land Rover logo, on the front and rear doors by lifting or levering them up. These reveal another plastic assembly which can be lifted to give access to the channel. The clips on these panels might fall off into the channel as you remove them! Make sure you retrieve them as they are $6 each!! A good tip is to put a rub of dry lube stick on these clips and they will be easier to remove next time and will stay attached to the panel To get over the rear wheel arch and to the rear area use a stiff wire to as a feed through. 2013 D4, E-diff, Vision pack
Never propose to a Yak
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8th Dec 2007 11:56 am |
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Bushwanderer
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
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Thanks garryc,
Once again, a helpful post.
I'll investigate.
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10th Dec 2007 11:25 am |
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