Member Since: 13 Aug 2018
Location: Roxwell
Posts: 37
Fault codes - and now a lack of hair
Hi,
I've been chasing a fault for a few weeks now, randomly you'll get the nice pleasant bong sound and the car reporting special programs off, suspension lowers as well.
Checking with the IID tool I have I see the below errors, however none of them seem to point to anything specific also to note that stopping and restarting clears the fault from the dash and you can continue, sometimes the fault returns quickly other times it can be a few days.
U0132-87 (2E) Lost communication with the ride level control module - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
U0159-87 (2E) Lost communication with parking assist control module - Bus signal/message failure - Missing a message
U0100-87 (A8) Lost communication with the engine control module/powertrain control module 'A' - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
U0416-86 (24) Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module - Bus signal/message - signal is invalid
U0402-94 (20) Invalid data from transmission control module - Component failure - unexpected operation
U0416-94 (20) Invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module - Component failure - unexpected operation
U2023-86 (20) Control module network signal calibration data - Bus signal/message failure - signal is invalid
U0401-68 (20) Invalid data received from engine control module/powertrain control module - Algorithm based failure - event information
Does anyone have any ideas where to start looking? I'm pulling what little hair I have left out
Cheer
27th Apr 2021 3:23 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4400
The 'U's you can generally ignore.
When does this fault happen? Is it on start up?Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
27th Apr 2021 5:04 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4651
It sounds like a Can Bus wiring issue based on what you have said.
Where to start indeed, it could be anywhere but I suppose in the absence of anything mildly definitive. As good a place as any to start might be the large block terminal connectors behind the NSR wheel on top of the chassis rail.
Don't pull them apart at first or you will have to recalibrate the suspension. Just have a look at the wiring entering and exiting the blocks for damage or exposed copper. Move back along the loom exposing the sheath and check for same. You can unclip the blocks from their mountings to aid inspection.
Check carefully each individual wire, the Can Bus wires are a black and a yellow always twisted together.
The other area worth a look on 07> is the block terminals behind the nsf head lamp. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
27th Apr 2021 5:20 pm
syngress
Member Since: 13 Aug 2018
Location: Roxwell
Posts: 37
rrhool wrote:
The 'U's you can generally ignore.
When does this fault happen? Is it on start up?
Randomly, but pretty much always when driving, or at least after the car has been running for a few moments. Then again it can go miles with no issues and then all of a sudden 'BONG'!!
27th Apr 2021 6:12 pm
syngress
Member Since: 13 Aug 2018
Location: Roxwell
Posts: 37
PROFSR G wrote:
It sounds like a Can Bus wiring issue based on what you have said.
Where to start indeed, it could be anywhere but I suppose in the absence of anything mildly definitive. As good a place as any to start might be the large block terminal connectors behind the NSR wheel on top of the chassis rail.
Don't pull them apart at first or you will have to recalibrate the suspension. Just have a look at the wiring entering and exiting the blocks for damage or exposed copper. Move back along the loom exposing the sheath and check for same. You can unclip the blocks from their mountings to aid inspection.
Check carefully each individual wire, the Can Bus wires are a black and a yellow always twisted together.
The other area worth a look on 07> is the block terminals behind the nsf head lamp.
It is a MY07 wil lhave a look in both locations and see if there is anything obvious before I start working through the loom a bit more. Thanks!!
Oh and I forgot to mention 99% of the time this happens is of course when the wife is driving it!!!
27th Apr 2021 6:13 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4651
Oh that will be it then.
Problem solved, must be a record on here surely. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
27th Apr 2021 9:29 pm
TyphoonDisco
Member Since: 19 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
I've just been through this painful experience of multiple "U" codes with no apparent component failures. The good news is the GAP IID BT is a brilliant piece of kit which I would consider vital in working towards a solution.
There are lots of threads which contain some great advice from the experts. I recommend you now proceed down a methodical list of checks and item replacements to try and identify where the "fault" lies.
My top tips.
1. Search for CANBUS in this forum and read everything you can on the CANBUS system and the route the twisted CANBUS wires take through the vehicle. This should also include how to use a multimeter to ascertain if there is a fault in the CANBUS via testing the 60ohm/120ohm resistance pre and post-fault.
2. Consider the effect of the multiple failures on your poor air compressor. Everytime the fault occurs your suspension drops to the stops. When you clear it via an ignition off/on the compressor kicks back in to get your system pressure back up. You can isolate the suspension via fuses whilst you get into the diagnostic work.
3. Search through the forum for the usual list of culprits to include:
a. Brake switch (cheap and easy to replace)
b. Brake bulbs (same)
c. Earth points (there are lots!)
d. Battery (some great threads on min voltage requirements/battery health)
e. Alternator (usually connected to poor battery performance)
f. Components most susceptible to water ingress (TCCM/connector blocks etc)
4. Try and pin down an exact set of parameters in which the fault occurs. For me the car needed to be warm having run for at least 15 minutes. It didn't matter if the car was stationary/moving. I then started to suspect it was related to a component whose physical properties were affected by the increase in car temperature which narrowed it down somewhat. My issue was a dodgy ABS control module which is the black plastic bit bolted to the side of the ABS pump.
5. Try not to head down a rabbit warren based on your symptoms being similar to another thread you find. The symptoms of a CANBUS failure are always very similar. The causes are countless!
6. Don't be afraid to bite the bullet and have your local independent LR mechanic have a look at it. I did this and my local indie identified that after my failure kicked in the only item he could not interrogate using his very expensive diagnostic machine was the ABS module. I was quoted a large sum to swap it because they will only do the entire unit. I found out by trial and error that I could just replace the electronic module and got away with a £60 bill!
29th Apr 2021 2:57 pm
syngress
Member Since: 13 Aug 2018
Location: Roxwell
Posts: 37
Hi,
It's been a while
Problem is still persisting, I thought for a while it had gone away as there were no issues for weeks.
A few things that I've figured out, using the IID tool I worked out it was either the TCCM or ABS modules, and am pretty sure it is the ABS module.
When swapping the ABS module (just the electronics) does this need to be reprogrammed to the car, if so is this possible with the IID tool. I can't find anywhere that says is does need to, or a process for doing it if it is needed.
The reason I ask is I have a 2nd hand ABS module (in fact two) that I've tried swapping the electronic modules over on, and in both cases after swapping and clearing the errors that come up on 1st ignition turn on (Errors don't reappear on subsequent turn on's) all looks good until I drive forwards, once the car gets to about 5mph it goes bong and the normal HDC/suspension faults appear except this time when I interrogate the errors on the IID tool there is a C1A99-49 (2B) Pressure sensor circuit - System internal failure - internal electronic failure error. This happens with both of the 'new' ABS electronics, however putting the original back on there is no error, but I still occasionally get the original fault
I'm wondering if the new ABS modules need to be programmed and this is why I get this new error. Hoping once I can clear that then my original fault will also be fixed
Thanks,
Mike
22nd Jun 2021 2:29 pm
TyphoonDisco
Member Since: 19 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
Hi,
From my understanding you need to programme the ABS module (with the vehicle VIN) if the module is not brand new, i.e., it has been in another vehicle. I used a brand new module and it worked without issue because it had never been associated with another vehicle. Since fitting my new module, when I use the GAP to interrogate all of the ECU info I notice the VIN has disappeared.
Here's the ECU info with the old/broken module:
Vehicle Dynamic
No assembly exists
Part Part number
Assembly (F112) 7H42-2C405-AE
Hardware (F111) 7H42-14C227-AA
Serial 1809273WE0416
Strategy (F188) 7H42-14C036-AE
VIN SALLAAA139A511904
Here's the info with the new module:
Vehicle Dynamic
No assembly exists
Part Part number
Assembly (F112) 7H42-2C405-AF
Hardware (F111) 7H42-14C227-AA
Serial 0218271TU0999
Strategy (F188) 7H42-14C036-BA
I do think you can have a used module reprogrammed to your VIN so worth asking your local dealer to do this. Perhaps the GAP team might be able to help you with this too?
Hopefully this works for you! I imagine the vehicle is just not happy when interrogating the 'new' module to find that the VIN doesn't match.
26th Jun 2021 11:21 am
TyphoonDisco
Member Since: 19 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
I should add, even when I fitted my brand new ABS electrical module, I did get a set of fault codes during the first power up but once cleared they do not return. I never needed to have the module programmed to my VIN because I think the fact it's new means the car did a first time association. As mentioned above, I think your issue is that the hardware has a different VIN within which will need to be reprogrammed.
Best of luck and let me know how you get on!
26th Jun 2021 11:27 am
syngress
Member Since: 13 Aug 2018
Location: Roxwell
Posts: 37
Thanks for the update TyphoonDisco!!
I've been in an email discussion with Pat at Gap and he was saying that the ABS (Module (Vehicle Dynamics) isn't programmable. Also after sending all of the ECU info of the replacement modules I had even though the parts numbers are exactly the same it seems they were both out of Range Rovers and not a discovery
Can I ask where you managed to get a brand new ABS module for £60 from I'd defiantly give a new one a try for that!!
I too was hoping that once the codes had been cleared after the 1st try it'd be fine, but alas not the case.
Cheers,
Mike
26th Jun 2021 1:47 pm
TyphoonDisco
Member Since: 19 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
Hi Mike,
I was really lucky to find a brand new one on eBay where someone had bought it brand new from Bearmach and it had arrived slightly damaged on the metal side. As I only wanted the plastic (electrical) side this didn't matter.
The part number is 265 235 021 or LR019347 which is the same as the RR Sport.
I'm sure it was my local indie who told me they could reprogramme a used module so this might still be worth checking.
Cheers,
Jamie
Click image to enlarge
26th Jun 2021 2:36 pm
syngress
Member Since: 13 Aug 2018
Location: Roxwell
Posts: 37
Hi Jamie,
Odd as the part number on mine is different to that:
Mine is : 265 950 472
When I compare the ECU info on my original to the one's that I got 2nd hand, the only differences are the Serial number, VIN Number and Strategy, the strategy is NNV505770 = 7H42-14C036-AD compared to NNV504670 = 7H42-14C036-AC (Original).
I'll have to find a local Indy to see if they are able to reprogram.
Cheers,
Mike
26th Jun 2021 2:45 pm
TyphoonDisco
Member Since: 19 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
That's odd, yours appears to be the Range Rover part number. I don't think it should matter because its holding the correct strategy, albeit a slightly old one. There's a newer strategy because mine has the ending BA which is a few evolutions after AC, AD and AE.
When searching for these modules on eBay the listings often say the item will need programming after fitting which makes me believe this is possible to do.
Let me know how it goes!
26th Jun 2021 3:34 pm
TyphoonDisco
Member Since: 19 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
One more thing to add. If you search for my thread on the issues I had you will see that once I fitted the new ABS module and fired her up I immediately got an error showing for the front right outer parking sensor - this hadn't featured anytime previously.
Either this was a very strange coincidence or there might have been gremlins at play beforehand and the wiggly amps were sufficient to throw the CANBUS off.
The true test would be for me to refit the old module now that I've replaced the sensor and see if it was actually that, and not the ABS module. However, I haven't got the bottle to mess with anything now it's all working!
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I'd defiantly give a new one a try for that!! 
