Difference between revisions of "Fit Brake Switch"

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(Brake Light Switch installation)
(Brake Light Switch installation)
 
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'''DO NOT PRESS the brake pedal when doing the install.  It is not necessary, and does something bad to the new switch and your wallet.'''
 
'''DO NOT PRESS the brake pedal when doing the install.  It is not necessary, and does something bad to the new switch and your wallet.'''
  
# Remove the panel below the steering column.  The panel is sort of hinged at the bottom, (held in by a couple of plastic fingers), so pull first at the top.  Pull not so lightly outward, at the top of the panel at the steering column opening.  There are two (2) of the usual U shaped metal clips on the far left and right sides that can hold tightly and therefore be sort of difficult to release.
+
# Remove the panel below the steering column.  The panel is sort of hinged at the bottom, (held in by a couple of plastic fingers), so pull first at the top.  Pull not so lightly outward, at the top of the panel at the steering column opening.  There are two (2) of the usual U shaped metal clips on the far left and right sides that can hold tightly and therefore be sort of difficult to release.<br/><br/>Hence, pull outwards at the top, and when both clips release, then rotate the panel outwards from the top and pull up a bit and the two plastic fingers at the bottom of the panel will pull out of the slots they engage into.  It is not as difficult as I make it out to be.  Also get a flashlight as being able to see in behind makes the seeing and removing the switch easier.<br/><br/>
 +
# You will then see the blue/white plastic brake light switch thru the rectangular opening to the left of the lower steering column, (LHD).  In theory you can remove the switch thru the opening however it is easier to partly remove the lower horizontal sort of carpeted plastic panel above the pedals.<br/><br/>To do this, loosen  two (2) quarter turn type Phillips head “screws” and if you wish release the two (2) clips at the rear from the firewall or just sort of bend the panel down to allow hand access.  Regardless, this will give you a lot more room to work with.<br/><br/>
 +
# First note the position of the switch, (horizontal), as when you are finished installing the new switch, it will look the same and this very much matters.  Now grab ahold of the brake switch and rotate it clockwise ¼ turn and it will release and pull out easily.<br/><br/>
 +
# You can now pull the switch out of its holder and the wiring harness and switch rearward to you so you can disconnect the wiring harness and reverse the steps for install of the new switch.  This time you rotate anticlockwise a quarter turn.<br/><br/>If you look at the old switch, it will probably have the Land Rover name imprinted into the white plastic, (the old part number one); the new switch has FoMoCo imprinted.
  
Hence, pull outwards at the top, and when both clips release, then rotate the panel outwards from the top and pull up a bit and the two plastic fingers at the bottom of the panel will pull out of the slots they engage into.  It is not as difficult as I make it out to be.  Also get a flashlight as being able to see in behind makes the seeing and removing the switch easier.
+
'''Remember not to move the brake pedal – just let it sit where it wants to.
 +
'''
 +
Note that out of the box, the switch plunger is recessed back into the body and when installing, the process of rotating the switch body a quarter turn anticlockwise releases the plunger so it pops longer and engages the brake pedal.
  
# You will then see the blue/white plastic brake light switch thru the rectangular opening to the left of the lower steering column, (LHD).  In theory you can remove the switch thru the opening however it is easier to partly remove the lower horizontal sort of carpeted plastic panel above the pedals.
+
If you look down on the plunger you can see curved slots where the rotation takes place.  '''Do not try to rotate the new one''' - play with the one you remove. Also '''do not press on the brake pedal''' when removing or installing as you will damage the plunger - this is one of the reasons the plunger is retracted into the body for installation.
 
 
To do this, loosen  two (2) quarter turn type Phillips head “screws” and if you wish release the two (2) clips at the rear from the firewall or just sort of bend the panel down to allow hand access.  Regardless, this will give you a lot more room to work with.
 
 
 
# First note the position of the switch, (horizontal), as when you are finished installing the new switch, it will look the same and this very much matters.  Now grab ahold of the brake switch and rotate it clockwise ¼ turn and it will release and pull out easily.
 
 
 
# You can now pull the switch out of its holder and the wiring harness and switch rearward to you so you can disconnect the wiring harness and reverse the steps for install of the new switch.  This time you rotate anticlockwise ¼ turn.
 
 
 
If you look at the old switch, it will probably have the Land Rover name imprinted into the white plastic, (the old part number one); the new switch has FoMoCo imprinted.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Remember not to move the brake pedal – just let it sit where it wants to.
 
 
 
 
 
Note that out of the box, the switch plunger is recessed back into the body and when installing, the process of rotating the switch body 1/4 turn anticlockwise releases the plunger so it pops longer and engages the brake pedal.
 
 
 
If you look down on the plunger you can see curved slots where the rotation takes place.  Do not try to rotate the new one - play with the one you remove. Also do not press on the brake pedal when removing or installing as you will damage the plunger - this is one of the reasons the plunger is retracted into the body for installation.
 
  
 
It is also for this reason that if you try to confirm the operation of the switch contacts with an ohm meter by pressing the plunger, it will appear that the switch does not switch. It will, once installed and the plunger is in full motion.
 
It is also for this reason that if you try to confirm the operation of the switch contacts with an ohm meter by pressing the plunger, it will appear that the switch does not switch. It will, once installed and the plunger is in full motion.
 
I suggest that you do pull the old switch apart.  It just unclips where the blue plastic joins the white plastic.  I expect that you will find within, black powder deposits.  This residue is from one of the contacts arcing and hence being destroyed.  Hopefully the newer replacement switches marked FOMOCO have beefed up contacts or we will be doing this over again in a few years.
 
  
 
Even if your 3 is not displaying any fault message such as Transmission Fault, HDC System Failure, EPB Fault, or has for no apparent reason, dropped to the stops, one would be advised to replace the switch.  It is probably only a matter of time until the trouble appears.
 
Even if your 3 is not displaying any fault message such as Transmission Fault, HDC System Failure, EPB Fault, or has for no apparent reason, dropped to the stops, one would be advised to replace the switch.  It is probably only a matter of time until the trouble appears.

Latest revision as of 12:22, 3 July 2017

Brake Light Switch installation

Installation of a replacement brake light switch, Land Rover newer part number LR072647 (was XKB500110). Also Ford Part number SW6572 as used on 2006 to 2009 Ford Fusions, and others); replaces old part LR part number XKB500030.

DO NOT PRESS the brake pedal when doing the install. It is not necessary, and does something bad to the new switch and your wallet.

  1. Remove the panel below the steering column. The panel is sort of hinged at the bottom, (held in by a couple of plastic fingers), so pull first at the top. Pull not so lightly outward, at the top of the panel at the steering column opening. There are two (2) of the usual U shaped metal clips on the far left and right sides that can hold tightly and therefore be sort of difficult to release.

    Hence, pull outwards at the top, and when both clips release, then rotate the panel outwards from the top and pull up a bit and the two plastic fingers at the bottom of the panel will pull out of the slots they engage into. It is not as difficult as I make it out to be. Also get a flashlight as being able to see in behind makes the seeing and removing the switch easier.

  2. You will then see the blue/white plastic brake light switch thru the rectangular opening to the left of the lower steering column, (LHD). In theory you can remove the switch thru the opening however it is easier to partly remove the lower horizontal sort of carpeted plastic panel above the pedals.

    To do this, loosen two (2) quarter turn type Phillips head “screws” and if you wish release the two (2) clips at the rear from the firewall or just sort of bend the panel down to allow hand access. Regardless, this will give you a lot more room to work with.

  3. First note the position of the switch, (horizontal), as when you are finished installing the new switch, it will look the same and this very much matters. Now grab ahold of the brake switch and rotate it clockwise ¼ turn and it will release and pull out easily.

  4. You can now pull the switch out of its holder and the wiring harness and switch rearward to you so you can disconnect the wiring harness and reverse the steps for install of the new switch. This time you rotate anticlockwise a quarter turn.

    If you look at the old switch, it will probably have the Land Rover name imprinted into the white plastic, (the old part number one); the new switch has FoMoCo imprinted.

Remember not to move the brake pedal – just let it sit where it wants to. Note that out of the box, the switch plunger is recessed back into the body and when installing, the process of rotating the switch body a quarter turn anticlockwise releases the plunger so it pops longer and engages the brake pedal.

If you look down on the plunger you can see curved slots where the rotation takes place. Do not try to rotate the new one - play with the one you remove. Also do not press on the brake pedal when removing or installing as you will damage the plunger - this is one of the reasons the plunger is retracted into the body for installation.

It is also for this reason that if you try to confirm the operation of the switch contacts with an ohm meter by pressing the plunger, it will appear that the switch does not switch. It will, once installed and the plunger is in full motion.

Even if your 3 is not displaying any fault message such as Transmission Fault, HDC System Failure, EPB Fault, or has for no apparent reason, dropped to the stops, one would be advised to replace the switch. It is probably only a matter of time until the trouble appears.