Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
3rd Jan 2013 2:07 pm
J@mes
Member Since: 10 Nov 2008
Location: Bomber County
Posts: 4547
Bodsy wrote:
DiscoMikey did the first time he did one... and only the first time
I think you could lift the body off with 4 trolley jacks and some long anxle stands/blocks
Which way would you roll the chassis out? 2014 D4 XS
2005 D3 SE - Gone
3rd Jan 2013 2:29 pm
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
IF I had to lift it without a lift, I would jack up the body with the 4 trolley jacks and then in stages, keep lifting and supporting the boddy with big wooden blocks and a couple of steel beams. Would take some time, but quicker and easier than engine through the bonnet. Chassis then rolls forward for engine removal. Body only needs to be a couple of feet higher. Assuming youhave the headroom and the forward moving room for the chassis.Bodsys Brake Bible
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
3rd Jan 2013 3:26 pm
maplecottage
Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
My local indy did this for a full engine replacement following an 07 plater cambelt break.
Drop me a pm if you want more details
3rd Jan 2013 5:35 pm
discostick
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 286
I started the engine change today. I am doing this at home with axle stands, so no option of the Body off.
5 hours in:
Front end on axle stands.
Sump and pickup off.
Bumper and arch liners off.
Slam Panel and Rad Pack out.
All the necessary hoses and plastics off.
Steering column UJ off,
Next stage:
Turbo inlet hose off.
Get the back end on axle stands
Disconnect downpipes
Gearbox off
Release engine mounts and pull it out.
There is a surprising amount of room in the bay with the rad's out and slam panel off. (i can stand in the engine bay while working.
There was a lot of metal in the sump! Looking like the well documented bearing failure.
Special thanks to forum members. Geoff, Woody32, Disco_Mikey, mapleocttage !! Wouldn't of got this far or attempted it without talking to these guys!
IID Pro MV License - D3, D4 & RRS - Enabling, Updates, D4 & RRS Timed / Remote Climate, D4 Bluetooth fitting
PM me for details
Owner of the original "Beanie" grille
D4 & RRS style D3 grilles made to order
12th Jan 2013 6:59 pm
disco_steve
Member Since: 25 Aug 2009
Location: Are you sure this is the M5 ?
Posts: 1498
Great pictures and very encouraging for those who would also be happy to attempt this rather than the dealer or Indie option (and cost) of a full body off to remove/replace the TDV6 engine Never get mad - get even !!
06 D3 now gone to family member and still going strong at 265k
previous vehicles:
04 D2 TD5 - (clocked 189k from new)
52 X-Trail 2.2 SVE
various euro boxes !
12th Jan 2013 7:04 pm
bellautos
Member Since: 02 Feb 2006
Location: NorthYorkshire
Posts: 2532
I have changed one with the body still on, just as you have start at the frint and keep working back until its out. its not that bad really to do and in honesty id do it again if i needed to.
The top bolts on the gearbox are the fiddlest to do, i used and do when i do clutches a few socket extentions about 3ft long over the top of the box from the back to reach the bellhousing bolts.
Remember to put ALL brackets back on the exhaust bypass pipe when you refit as i have seen a few crack over time due to people not putting the supports back on correctly.
Keep uo the good work.
Pete
12th Jan 2013 8:18 pm
discostick
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 286
bellautos wrote:
I have changed one with the body still on, just as you have start at the frint and keep working back until its out. its not that bad really to do and in honesty id do it again if i needed to.
The top bolts on the gearbox are the fiddlest to do, i used and do when i do clutches a few socket extentions about 3ft long over the top of the box from the back to reach the bellhousing bolts.
Remember to put ALL brackets back on the exhaust bypass pipe when you refit as i have seen a few crack over time due to people not putting the supports back on correctly.
Keep uo the good work.
Pete
Thanks for the tip on the gearbox. I thought it looked tight up there!!
12th Jan 2013 8:21 pm
maplecottage
Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
Well done James - only to glad to have been able to help.
Keep up the good work - and keep an eye out for the snow
Steve
12th Jan 2013 10:27 pm
discostick
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 286
Day 2: Spent 6 hours on it.
Got it on 4 axle stands nice and high.
Prop shafts off.
Exhaust off + all heat shields.
Gearbox out - This was a bit of a hard job, the 4 bolts on the top of the gearbox and the center bracket on the cross-over pipe were only accessible wit ha 3ft extension, going over the top of the gearbox with the back of the box lowered as much as possible, as Pete had suggested!, . Not really looking forward to putting it back on. Its doing it on axle stand and laying out in the cold that is hard work more than anything !!
Just got to get to the engine mount bolts and pull it out now.
14th Jan 2013 10:36 am
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
James
Can you send me your phone number
Or give me a call
14th Jan 2013 12:05 pm
discostick
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 286
Today i got out (in the snow) to pull it out.
The hardest part of the whole job for me was removing the gearbox. Doing it on axle stands isnt easy / ideal.
The get the engine out, you HAVE to remove the PAS pump & turbo inlet hoses. Then you can easily get to the engine mount on that side. The other engine mount has plenty of room.
Other than that, it came out EASY !! Plenty of room.
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