Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
Wheel spacers - torque settings ??
Just received my nice new shiny TerraFirmer wheel spacers - before I take jack and sockets to the ol' girl, any advice on torque settings ??
Is there any need to use a compound such a 'Loctite' on the spacer nuts ??
Cheers
25th Aug 2011 12:24 pm
al cope
Member Since: 08 Nov 2005
Location: Oldbury, WM
Posts: 10296
are they so thick that you bolt the spacers to the hub first, and then the wheels to a set of studs coming out of the spacers?
Normal wheelnut torque is 140Nm.
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25th Aug 2011 12:36 pm
maplecottage
Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
Yes - spacers are 30mm thick and have 5 studs and 5 holes so presumably, bolt spacer to hub through provided holes and nuts. Bolt wheel to spacer on 'new' studs.
25th Aug 2011 1:15 pm
al cope
Member Since: 08 Nov 2005
Location: Oldbury, WM
Posts: 10296
OK - and nothing provided with the spacers about the torque? I guess a quick call to the suppliers/manufacturers would be best.
AlVolvo XC90 B5 Plus Dark
Gone - MY18 D5 HSE - Corris on 22's with Black Pack
Now gone - MY16 D4 SE Tech, Loire Blue, Almond Leather, Privacy, plus some other goodies.
Old - MY12 D4 SDV6 XS Auto - Ipanema Sand with Almond Leather - Plus other niceties, and D4.com sticker
Older - D3 TDV6 XS Auto - Lugano Teal with Almond Leather, 20" Stormers, Shiny Tailpipes, DVD/TV - and obligatory D3 sticker
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25th Aug 2011 1:44 pm
maplecottage
Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
I sat and pondered this for a while when mine arrived.
As the nuts that now fit onto the LR studs are smaller but with the same internel hole size, and don't have the stud passing all the way through them, engineering tradition would require a lower torque than the big LR nuts. Question is - how much lower? I've taken off 20% and they have neither stripped, nor fallen off.
"Locktite" would be a good idea, unless you intend taking the spacers off regularly, when it all becomes too much of a farce.
What worries me is not being able to check the tightness of these inner nuts without taking wheels off. However, I have never found then to be loose after a weekend with the off-road wheels fitted.A vaccine does not stop you catching a virus, or passing it on, or getting ill from it, really ill. It does reduce the likelyhood of you dying when really, really ill. Stay Alive - KEEP AWAY FROM PEOPLE.
25th Aug 2011 4:49 pm
CMG
Member Since: 12 Jul 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 956
I thought the guideline was check them after the first 500 miles, then you're good to go. Not sure though. What brand are they?17 Discovery 5 HSE Si6, Fuji White on brown | 07 LR3 SE 4.4 Java Black on Alpaca
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25th Aug 2011 11:00 pm
WINDSWEPTISLANDER
Member Since: 21 Jul 2011
Location: Way up north
Posts: 523
[quote="Navigator"]As the nuts that now fit onto the LR studs are smaller but with the same internel hole size, and don't have the stud passing all the way through them, engineering tradition would require a lower torque than the big LR nuts. Question is - how much lower? I've taken off 20% and they have neither stripped, nor fallen off.
Same internal hole size + same thread = same torque required.
Torque is not set by the size of the nut, but by things like the pitch of the thread, the yeild stress of the stud, and - if you want to get anal the co-efficient of friction (different grease = different torque)
Personally I owuldn't use wheel spacers, but in the scenario described I do not believe torque figures would need to change.
It is more the yield stress of the nut that concerns me. In the only two failures I've seen, a couple of the nuts had split. Also, there is a much shorter length of nut thread in contact with the stud as part of the stud is used up by the spacer. In fact, the nuts that came with my spacers only go half-way onto the studs.
The real solution would be wheels with a different offset - but where could one get such a thing?A vaccine does not stop you catching a virus, or passing it on, or getting ill from it, really ill. It does reduce the likelyhood of you dying when really, really ill. Stay Alive - KEEP AWAY FROM PEOPLE.
6th Sep 2011 4:57 pm
maplecottage
Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
They're on - torqued up to the 2 grunt level
All seems OK
6th Sep 2011 5:53 pm
WINDSWEPTISLANDER
Member Since: 21 Jul 2011
Location: Way up north
Posts: 523
Navigator I take your point,
in a properly designed nut and stud arrangement the stressed cross-sectional area of the threads on the nut should be equal to or greater than the stud's cross-sectoin. Put simply the stud should always go first, there are also design things around hardness etc, a surprising amount of science goes into nuts and bolts. But like I said I see where you're coming from, i.e moved away from original design spec - another reason I wouldn't fit spacers.
Maplecottage, I see you've applied the international standard of TWK (three white knuckles)
6th Sep 2011 7:36 pm
Harry365
Member Since: 25 Aug 2018
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 373
Old thread but to help others in the future.
As per TF instructions
Put the car into gear and apply the hand brake, loosen front wheel nuts, raise vehicle on a jack and then support the front axle on axle stands.
Remove the front wheels.
Bolt the wheel spacer / adaptor to the hub using the new wheel nuts supplied and torque the nuts to 130Nm or 96lb/ft.
When both sides are done fit the new wheels lower the car off of the axle stands and torque the wheel nuts to 140Nm or 103lb/ft.
Loosen rear wheel nuts, raise vehicle on a jack and then support the rear axle on axle stands.
Remove the rear wheels.
Bolt the wheel spacer / adaptor to the hub using the new wheel nuts supplied and torque the nuts to 130Nm or 96lb/ft.
When both sides are done refit wheels lower the car off of the axle stands and torque the wheel nuts to 140Nm or 103lb/ft.
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