Member Since: 11 Apr 2015
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 322
Re: Dealer response-not a warranty issue
That's true Robbie, how do main stealer service guys remove the wheel nuts?? I can't really see them using the standard issued wheel nut wrench?
Current: D3 2005 HSE
Previous: D2 2001 TD5
D2 4.0 V8
1998 P38 Rangie
29th Jul 2015 10:36 pm
DDDad
Member Since: 10 Jan 2015
Location: Angus
Posts: 1201
I first heard of dissimilar-metal corrosion in the 1970s when Honda introduced their Comstar wheels (see photo).
The early versions had cast aluminium rims and pressed (stainless?) steel spokes, riveted together. Salty water got into the joints and rotted them away in months, turning the wheel to jelly! Pretty soon they became all alloy.
Years later I joined a firm that had been epoxying copper pipes into aluminium alloy bulkheads. After a while the pipes became blocked. Except they weren't blocked: the cured epoxy acted as as electrolyte ( ) and the aluminium swelled up so much it crushed the pipes shut As a temporary fix, maintenance guys were hammering drifts into the pipes to reopen them.
Of course, if you've ever seen what eventually happens to the submerged galvanised steel bolts that hold toilet cisterns down, you'll know that swelling rust alone could easily push the caps off, once water gets into the gap. Went for a job as a human cannonball. Not the right calibre.
29th Jul 2015 11:24 pm
motolite
Member Since: 18 Mar 2013
Location: Sydney
Posts: 931
I'll try and get the energy to have a word in person.
I've had first hand experience with metal corrosion on my MTB carbon rims that used bespoke alloy nipples. The nipples got corroded and start splitting after a while. Pity I had to have a tumble to find out. Still not sure if it was the loose spokes or my hapless riding. I did get new rims under warranty (laced up with brass nipples), but my shoulder is still giving me grief. old age?
30th Jul 2015 12:05 am
DDDad
Member Since: 10 Jan 2015
Location: Angus
Posts: 1201
I wish I still had some of that solid grease that you heat up and immersed your chain in. It went solid again, once it had flowed into all the bearings and cooled down. But with new nuts only costing about £3, is it really worth it
I can sympathise about the shoulder. I came through my biking days without breaking a bone, but then broke and dislocated my shoulder in a skiing accident. Some days it doesn't feel like mine, anymore. Went for a job as a human cannonball. Not the right calibre.
Last edited by DDDad on 30th Jul 2015 2:03 pm. Edited 1 time in total
30th Jul 2015 11:11 am
Niel
Member Since: 15 Jul 2015
Location: Southampton, 'Ampshir'
Posts: 169
I wonder if filling the nut in a tray to recover the overflow with ACF50 might work almost as well as traditional chain grease, possibly better? Worked wonders on what was left the 110's panels, if you've ever owned a series or 90/110 Land-Rover you'll have dealt with electrolytic corrosion at some point, the worst on my last 110 was where an SPO put stainless steel bolts in to hold the second row of seats, it needed a whole new section of floor as a result...
Still want to try a few things on old nuts though.
30th Jul 2015 12:49 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Regarding the use of impacts as I used one on my D3 for nearly 8 years without an issue. I did prevent idiots from trying to tighten nuts with an unregulated impact. I did clean my wheel nuts every year so perhaps this helped.
I use an impact on my D4 wheel nuts too, including tightening them with a 140 TS. No problems so far (2.5 years) but I really should get around to ditching the lockers.
I even use a cordless drill to operate the spare wheel winch - I must be very bad….
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 10 Jan 2015
Location: Angus
Posts: 1201
I can see you use a vacuum cleaner in there as well. Are you power mad?
I've still got my lockers, too. So long as the key is always inserted far enough to engage on the brown steel part, not just the cap, I don't see a problem. Went for a job as a human cannonball. Not the right calibre.
30th Jul 2015 2:19 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Corrosion can split the two parts apart and even change their relative alignment. From there it is impossible for the key to engage properly yet it feels like it has. Next wheel change = fail. So out comes the chisel / dremel / Irwins / welder etc.
Not my favourite job yet I've not got around to ditching the lockers on my D4.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
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) and the aluminium swelled up so much it crushed the pipes shut 
As a temporary fix, maintenance guys were hammering drifts into the pipes to reopen them. 
