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Webasco timer - warm cab when you open the door?
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kevofcov
 


Member Since: 06 Nov 2007
Location: Other end of M69
Posts: 533

England 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 Graphite LE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 4
Webasco timer - warm cab when you open the door?

Can anybody save me some time.

I am having a Webasco timer fitted to control the FBH. I am clear how to make it work by remote control but am frustrated that the cab will still be cold when I open the door. FFRR's do warm the cab i'm told but the D3 is very difficult to modify the heater blower because of the cambus arrangement.

Is there any mileage in adapting the rear cab blower (by the 3rd row seats). My thinking is that the FBH is circulating hot coolant and the rear heater fan must be a simple 12v drive. Would warm the cab from the rear....

Not done any investigation yet but feel free to shoot me down in flames.

Kev
  
Post #25171427th Jan 2008 8:04 pm
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simonsi
 


Member Since: 14 Oct 2007
Location: Auckland
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New Zealand 

I think TFC stated that all the air flaps shut when the climate control shuts down - in that case is there anywhere for th the 3rd row fan to draw air from???

I don´t have the 3rd row blower so haven´t any detail, I do have the webasto timer though....
 Cheers

Simon 
 
Post #25176327th Jan 2008 9:35 pm
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kevofcov
 


Member Since: 06 Nov 2007
Location: Other end of M69
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England 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 Graphite LE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 4

Will have a look tomorrow, cheers
  
Post #25215028th Jan 2008 7:52 pm
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kevofcov
 


Member Since: 06 Nov 2007
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England 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 Graphite LE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 4

The plumbing runs all the way to the rear. I will wait until next week and see if these pipes get hot when the Webasco is fitted and is working on the timer.

Kev
  
Post #25254629th Jan 2008 2:51 pm
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countrywide
 


Member Since: 16 Sep 2007
Location: UK
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United Kingdom 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 Graphite LE Auto Unknown ColourDiscovery 4

kevofcov wrote:
The plumbing runs all the way to the rear. I will wait until next week and see if these pipes get hot when the Webasco is fitted and is working on the timer.

Kev


I am not expert but from my quick tests on mine, the climate control also controls the temperature from the heater matrix and if this is not controlled, then hot water doesn't flow to the heater matrix and you still won't get hot air.

Could be wrong though
  
Post #25254929th Jan 2008 2:56 pm
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kevofcov
 


Member Since: 06 Nov 2007
Location: Other end of M69
Posts: 533

England 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 Graphite LE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 4

Update on the Webasco timer.
Timer has been fitted and the good news is that the two rear pipes of the 3rd row heater get warm. Smile I assume that I can simply drive the fan motor via a relay but has anybody got any thoughts on where to take the drive for the relay from.
I will be popular with Doris if I can pull this one off and she has a warm cab when she opens the door.
Regards Kev

Click image to enlarge
  
Post #2552745th Feb 2008 9:41 am
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JMC
 


Member Since: 25 Feb 2006
Location: Aberdeen-Angus. Where the Bull* comes from!
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Scotland 

kevofcov wrote:
has anybody got any thoughts on where to take the drive for the relay from.

Towbar sockets in the rear (behind the n/s lamp cluster) have a permanent 12v feed......
 The older I get, the more I realise that people confuse wrinkles for wisdom Smile
Founder member of Club FFRRV
Club Orange, Mint or Fruit
Club Walnut Sniffers
 
 
Post #2552815th Feb 2008 9:59 am
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kevofcov
 


Member Since: 06 Nov 2007
Location: Other end of M69
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England 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 Graphite LE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 4

JMC

Theres a 12v cigar lighter socket just out of shot, above the heater, so the power supply would be easy!
What I'm not so sure on is the trigger voltage for the relay - needs to be 12 volts live only when the timer is driving the FBH Neutral

Cheers Kev
  
Post #2553865th Feb 2008 2:09 pm
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wiggs
 


Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
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United Kingdom 2015 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Fuji WhiteDiscovery 4

On the Webasto timer there is a W-bus output and a 12v + output.

These only power when either the timer is in use or the instant flame button is pressed.

You will proberly be using the W-bus output so you have the 12v + left to use.
 G4 Gone ...but not forgotten  
Post #2553895th Feb 2008 2:18 pm
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kevofcov
 


Member Since: 06 Nov 2007
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Wiggs

That just what I'm looking for Smile
If I remember correctly there is a post somewhere that details the wiring layout, will have a dig for it.

Just had another thought. Does anyone know if warming the cab this way will trigger the alarm either
a) due to current load drawn
or
b) thermal currents of air moving around the cab

Kev
  
Post #2553995th Feb 2008 2:39 pm
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stapldm
 


Member Since: 11 Sep 2006
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From my talks with the Grand Master TFC, I seem to remember that when the car had it's own built in (yet mostly non-functional) timer, it automatically turned off the internal ultrasonic sensors to prevent spurious alarms from the convection currents; which ultrasonics are sensitive to.
The quick fix is to double-press the lock button when leaving the car which on the up-side turns off the internal sensors, and on the down-side no longer deadlocks the doors against scroat attacks.

I'm not sure if the fan (which should NOT be run at full speed!) would draw enough current to affect anything or not.

Good luck on your mod - my own investigations into getting the front blower working are at a standstill at the moment until I can figure out how to drive the vent flaps without burgering them up.
 Dr. Ian Malcolm:
"Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should."
Transgenic tomato anyone? 
 
Post #2554055th Feb 2008 2:53 pm
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kevofcov
 


Member Since: 06 Nov 2007
Location: Other end of M69
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England 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 Graphite LE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 4

Stapldm

I think I will 'suck it and see' regarding the currents setting the alarm off.

I've never really thought about the 3rd row heater till now and am not sure how the fan is powered. I've assumed the fan is only one speed (on or off). Do I need to get out there with the volt meter? and why not at full speed? Shocked

Kev
  
Post #2554135th Feb 2008 3:03 pm
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stapldm
 


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For starters, at full speed there's going to be a fairly high current flowing, which may or may not trigger the alarm but will certainly eat into battery charge.

The second part is based on my own assumptions; so I'm happy if someone can put me right. At full speed, it seems to me that the heat exchanger's going to working at it's most efficient, which means that the cab will slowly warm up but it's unlikely the engine will be up to temperature by the time the cycle has finished.
The difference in air temp before/after the heat exchanger is going to be small at high speed, but much higher at low speed. Again, my own suposition but it makes sense to me that a low speed yet hot air current is going to lose less heat as it passes up the glass than the high speed slightly warmed air will.

I suspect that the only way of finding out which way is better would be to try it and measure the increases in temp etc.

I have second row controls in my HSE, and I'm sure one of them is for fan speed. I recommend that the relay disconnects the fan from the existing controler when activated, to prevent feedback into the original fan driver circuits.
 Dr. Ian Malcolm:
"Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should."
Transgenic tomato anyone? 
 
Post #2554195th Feb 2008 3:24 pm
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Ian Thornhill
 


Member Since: 15 Feb 2008
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England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Tonga GreenDiscovery 3
webasto heater

My 2005 model still has the pre heat setting usable (you have to leave the radio on) and my interior gets toasty without setting the alarm off or flattening the battery.
  
Post #25974115th Feb 2008 11:40 am
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simonsi
 


Member Since: 14 Oct 2007
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New Zealand 

Lucky Censored ! Very Happy Big Cry
 Cheers

Simon 
 
Post #25974515th Feb 2008 11:49 am
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