Member Since: 03 May 2010
Location: Preferably horrizontal
Posts: 284
Waxoyl, Dinitrol or Lanoguard?
Having moved over to the dark side with a RRS L320, I haven't posted her for a while, but I thought there may be a greater depth of experience here than the RRSPORT side I usually frequent.
My old money-pit L320 MY10 passed the MOT but underbody rust is apparently becoming an issue.
I rather like the old girl and am thinking that I want to keep her for a few years yet, so rust treatment and protection seems to be in order.
Will all the above do an adequate job, or is one a stand out choice?
I am prepared to pay to have it done professionally, and am happy to travel a sensible distance from West Norfolk.
Has anybody had experience of these products, and recommendations for a garage to do the job properly?
I've seen these so far;
https://www.neneoverland.co.uk/services/ru...E4QAvD_BwE https://www.rust.co.uk/product/dinitrol-ru...atment-272
Cheers guys.CGA
Member Since: 11 Sep 2016
Location: Marnoch
Posts: 4252
There was someone on here that offered the service (user name Zagato I think) based south of London from memory, not used him myself but heard good reports, not sure if he still does it though..I want to see the sweets before I get into your windowless van... I'm not stupid!
Corris Grey D4 Commercial SE 2016
Zermatt Sliver 2007 D3 SE manual (gone)
Indus Silver D4 HSE 2015 (gone)
Bonatti Grey D3 HSE 2006 (gone)
White D3 S (LHD) 2007 (gone)
Firenze Red D4 HSE 2014 (gone)
Black RRS 3.6TDV8 2008 (gone)
Rusty Green Defender 110 1997 (gone)
Black FL2 HSE 2013 (gone)
9th Aug 2022 11:29 am
CGA
Member Since: 03 May 2010
Location: Preferably horrizontal
Posts: 284
Thanks, you are absolutely right, no idea what happened then
I actually bought my D3 from them in 2010 (which was the best LR I've owned), not sure what they are like now.CGA
9th Aug 2022 11:53 am
CGA
Member Since: 03 May 2010
Location: Preferably horrizontal
Posts: 284
nigethecat wrote:
There was someone on here that offered the service (user name Zagato I think) based south of London from memory, not used him myself but heard good reports, not sure if he still does it though..
Think I've found him; a site supporter on Defender2.Net. West Sussex is a bit far though as I guess he would need the car for a few days. Thanks anyway CGA
9th Aug 2022 12:21 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Bilt Hamber seems decent gear.
9th Aug 2022 12:59 pm
Gary_P
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1682
Lanoguard was recommended by independent garage. I asked about prep and they said all that was required was to pressure wash it off underneath . My car is only 7 years old, so surface rust only. I've read lots on here about people saying it takes a lot of time and effort to do it properly and also that you need to do it from nearly new. So personally I'm in a bit of a quandry regarding whether it's worthwhile. When I read up on Lanoguard, I noticed it says it needs reapplication yearly which might affect your decision.Gary
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Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY
9th Aug 2022 4:23 pm
Farmer Chalk
Member Since: 06 Mar 2013
Location: Independent Republic of Kentishshire.
Posts: 4197
Think you were probably speaking to the same indie as me… just this week I was there watching them paint the whole underside of a D3 with Lanoguard and I have to say I was very impressed..
I have tried others in the past and found that moisture gets behind them really quickly and rusts away merrily behind what you think is a firm surface…
Particularly with Smoothrite I am constantly repainting almost yearly under our Horsebox.. my G4 is now starting to show signs of age and I really liked the look of the Lanoguard and the ease of application.. plus it doesn’t matter if you get it on rubber or other parts..
I’m certainly tempted by it…
9th Aug 2022 4:36 pm
kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6768
First - there aren’t any miracle cures for rust.
What fixes it is a combination of cleaning the surfaces properly, getting rid of ANY preexisting rust, applying some kind of rust converter, applying rust protection on top of that and “cavity wax” inside bulkheads.
If someone’s technique is to spray waxoyl or similar on top of surface rusted areas they’re doing it really wrong.
My two euro cents.
9th Aug 2022 6:15 pm
Duc750
Member Since: 07 Aug 2017
Location: northampton
Posts: 315
I really would not give nene Overland any money at all - there's a good portion of those that have that have never seen it or anything in exchange ever again
I'f you're getting some one to do it take a look at what Buzzweld have to offer05 D3 V8 HSE, LR Passion tree bars, wildbear compressor guard, LRP switch panel, ARB rear locker + compressor, Trigger 6 shooter electrical system
12 RRS SDV6 HSE (Hers) - Gone and replaced with an I Pace - I can tell you now EV is not the future yet
Metalian Camper trailer
9th Aug 2022 8:34 pm
Green Land Rover
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: Stourbridge
Posts: 412
CGA wrote:
nigethecat wrote:
There was someone on here that offered the service (user name Zagato I think) based south of London from memory, not used him myself but heard good reports, not sure if he still does it though..
Think I've found him; a site supporter on Defender2.Net. West Sussex is a bit far though as I guess he would need the car for a few days. Thanks anyway
Zagato did my old Defender. Left it with him for a week or so and he did a cracking job. Used the train to get there/home. Managed to get 1st class ticket on Virgin between Birmingham and London for around £20 Discovery 4 HSE - Aintree Green
Freelander 2 TD4 SE Automatic - Tonga Green
Defender XS - Tonga Green - Gone Now
Freelander 1 Td4 ES Manual - Epsom Green - Gone Now
Freelander 1 Td4 Kalahari SE - Epsom Green - Gone Now
Freelander 1 XEi - Epsom Green - Gone Now
Member Since: 03 May 2010
Location: Preferably horrizontal
Posts: 284
I think I'm drifting away from Nene Overland/Wayoyl. I would prefer something that's durable and absolutely get that preparation is the key.
I've not heard of Buzzweld, will get googling thanks.CGA
10th Aug 2022 7:56 am
NC500
Member Since: 18 Sep 2017
Location: On the NC500
Posts: 549
Jotun 87
10th Aug 2022 8:35 am
NC500
Member Since: 18 Sep 2017
Location: On the NC500
Posts: 549
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1682
Farmer Chalk wrote:
Think you were probably speaking to the same indie as me… just this week I was there watching them paint the whole underside of a D3 with Lanoguard and I have to say I was very impressed..
I have tried others in the past and found that moisture gets behind them really quickly and rusts away merrily behind what you think is a firm surface…
Particularly with Smoothrite I am constantly repainting almost yearly under our Horsebox.. my G4 is now starting to show signs of age and I really liked the look of the Lanoguard and the ease of application.. plus it doesn’t matter if you get it on rubber or other parts..
I’m certainly tempted by it…
I did ask them if they treated customer cars and they said no, but they had done their own. Another guy on here, who is selling his car, did his on the drive, with some masking off etc. Obviously using that technique you’re not going to get it into all the crevices and box sections. But it will help.Gary
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