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V8 Thermometer sitting low
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Bungle
 


Member Since: 07 Apr 2015
Location: Wanborough
Posts: 254

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Quote:
Bungle, did you do just the thermostat, or did you just swap the whole housing?


Just the thermostat, there is no need to touch the housing and by all accounts if you disturb it then you have to replace it as it will inevitably leak afterwards. From memory you just undo three bolts and the part that holds the thermostat comes off, swap the thermostat and put it back together. Some of the guides out there talk about changing the housing as well but unless it is cracked/leaking I'd leave it well alone.

I have a vague recollection(bear in mind this was over 5 years ago) that the throttle body has to come off to get to it but it wasn't a difficult job. Took longer to bleed it than it did to do the stat!
  
Post #21992605th Jan 2021 11:22 am
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Discoveringcomfort
 


Member Since: 16 Sep 2015
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 637

England 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Zambezi SilverDiscovery 3

If you do decide to change the V8 thermostat housing completely, DO NOT buy a Britpart one it will only last 6 months before becoming porous and the thermostat part is held on with three Chinese screws that allow the pipe to move the joint enough to leak from day one.

Sorry as people love them but the AF one is Britpart when I bought it.
 Series 1 V8
Series 2 Hibrid V8
Discovery 3 HSE V8 
 
Post #21995666th Jan 2021 10:29 am
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tgreer
 


Member Since: 12 Aug 2020
Location: Henley-on-Thames
Posts: 110

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

Bungle wrote:
Quote:
Bungle, did you do just the thermostat, or did you just swap the whole housing?


Just the thermostat, there is no need to touch the housing and by all accounts if you disturb it then you have to replace it as it will inevitably leak afterwards. From memory you just undo three bolts and the part that holds the thermostat comes off, swap the thermostat and put it back together. Some of the guides out there talk about changing the housing as well but unless it is cracked/leaking I'd leave it well alone.

I have a vague recollection(bear in mind this was over 5 years ago) that the throttle body has to come off to get to it but it wasn't a difficult job. Took longer to bleed it than it did to do the stat!


Thanks, but the stat is easy enough to do? The only reason I thought about doing the whole housing is you mentioned a crappy seal..
  
Post #21995746th Jan 2021 11:02 am
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kajtzu
 


Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6538

Finland 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

AB has a good overview of your options:



I’d also second the “thermostat housing should be genuine” recommendation mentioned above.
  
Post #21995906th Jan 2021 11:51 am
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kajtzu
 


Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6538

Finland 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Discoveringcomfort wrote:
Sorry as people love them but the AF one is Britpart when I bought it.


AF, just like others, in this case, let you shoot yourself in the foot by buying the cheaper aftermarket part but they do sell the genuine version, too. Thumbs Up
  
Post #21995996th Jan 2021 12:07 pm
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JackNorris
 


Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Beds/Bucks Border
Posts: 1877

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Tonga GreenDiscovery 3

Thanks all, seems like the thermostat could be at fault if everyone else is up to temp quickly.

Still nice and toasty inside tho Laughing

Maybe Ill look to change it. Does anyone have a part number for the thermostat only?

Thanks
 MY2023 Discovery 5 R-Dynamic 3.0
MY2020 Discovery 5 Landmark 3.0 - SOLD
MY2005 Discovery 3 V8 4.4 HSE - SOLD
MY2019 Discovery 5 SE 3.0 - LR Replaced !
MY2005 Discovery 3 S 2.7 - SOLD
MY2016 Discovery 4 Graphite - SOLD
MY2015 Discovery 4 SE Tech - SOLD 
 
Post #21996766th Jan 2021 6:48 pm
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JackNorris
 


Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Beds/Bucks Border
Posts: 1877

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Tonga GreenDiscovery 3

Would appear to be part number:
LR005765 Thumbs Up
 MY2023 Discovery 5 R-Dynamic 3.0
MY2020 Discovery 5 Landmark 3.0 - SOLD
MY2005 Discovery 3 V8 4.4 HSE - SOLD
MY2019 Discovery 5 SE 3.0 - LR Replaced !
MY2005 Discovery 3 S 2.7 - SOLD
MY2016 Discovery 4 Graphite - SOLD
MY2015 Discovery 4 SE Tech - SOLD 
 
Post #21996776th Jan 2021 6:54 pm
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JackNorris
 


Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Beds/Bucks Border
Posts: 1877

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Tonga GreenDiscovery 3

Also, is this the accurate bleed description for a V8? (I know they differ slightly) (I left out draining system)

14 . Loosen the coolant expansion tank bleed screw.
15 . Fill the cooling system to the upper level mark of the expansion tank.
16. Tighten the bleed screw.
17 . Install the coolant expansion tank cap.
18 . Start and run the engine at idle until the normal operating temperature is reached.
19 .
WARNING: Release the cooling system pressure by slowly turning the coolant expansion tank cap a
quarter of a turn. Cover the expansion tank cap with a thick cloth to prevent the possibility of scalding. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury.

NOTE : When the coolant bleed is complete and prior to installing the expansion tank cap, top-up the expansion tank to 30mm above the maximum level.

Switch the engine off.

Remove the coolant expansion cap, allow the level to settle and top-up so that the level is 30mm above the upper level.

19. Allow the engine to cool.
20 . Install the engine cover.
21 . Clean any spilt coolant from the vehicle.
22 . Install the radiator access panel.
Tighten the 4 bolts to 10 Nm (7 lb.ft).
23 . Install the front LH splash shield.
 MY2023 Discovery 5 R-Dynamic 3.0
MY2020 Discovery 5 Landmark 3.0 - SOLD
MY2005 Discovery 3 V8 4.4 HSE - SOLD
MY2019 Discovery 5 SE 3.0 - LR Replaced !
MY2005 Discovery 3 S 2.7 - SOLD
MY2016 Discovery 4 Graphite - SOLD
MY2015 Discovery 4 SE Tech - SOLD 
 
Post #21996916th Jan 2021 7:34 pm
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Bungle
 


Member Since: 07 Apr 2015
Location: Wanborough
Posts: 254

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

tgreer wrote:
Thanks, but the stat is easy enough to do? The only reason I thought about doing the whole housing is you mentioned a crappy seal..


Yep, very easy. The seal issue only comes into play if you take the housing off, if you don't take the housing off you will be fine (assuming it isn't leaking already).
  
Post #21997857th Jan 2021 10:18 am
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Bungle
 


Member Since: 07 Apr 2015
Location: Wanborough
Posts: 254

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

JackNorris wrote:
Also, is this the accurate bleed description for a V8?


Seems pretty good. Some of the V8's have a bleed screw on a hose that runs over the top of the engine, make sure that is closed before you start it otherwise it just draws air in. Looks like that bleed point has been left out of your instructions and I know not all of them had it so even if it is there you would probably be better just leaving it closed.
  
Post #21997867th Jan 2021 10:21 am
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JackNorris
 


Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Beds/Bucks Border
Posts: 1877

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Tonga GreenDiscovery 3

All fixed,

Thermostat had gone and while in there the bleed valve was changed

Heats up in minutes.
 MY2023 Discovery 5 R-Dynamic 3.0
MY2020 Discovery 5 Landmark 3.0 - SOLD
MY2005 Discovery 3 V8 4.4 HSE - SOLD
MY2019 Discovery 5 SE 3.0 - LR Replaced !
MY2005 Discovery 3 S 2.7 - SOLD
MY2016 Discovery 4 Graphite - SOLD
MY2015 Discovery 4 SE Tech - SOLD 
 
Post #220467323rd Jan 2021 3:10 pm
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kajtzu
 


Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6538

Finland 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

I had the “opportunity” to do the same today. I really diagnosed that I had a broken heater core and a thermostat but the truth is always more surprising Whistle a friend graciously offered to assist and I’d say that I wouldn’t have gotten the Censored thermostat off alone.

We decided to tackle the thermostat first since the engine seemed constantly cold and the dial slanted down no matter what one tried. I had purchased a LR thermostat housing (LR005631), it was reboxed by Britpart but genuine, just to be safe and I’m VERY happy I did so. The existing housing was Censored (see pictures) and the plastic had deteriorated. Our guess was that when warm it leaked to some degree. The yellow clip which is there to keep part of the thermostat in place had also broken at some point in the past and wasn’t present.

I used DexCool as it was available for a reasonable price, otherwise I’d have used a generic OAT based coolant.


We meticulously cleaned the components we intended to put back; soaked bolts in dirt removing solution (WD-40), washed and cleaned the elbow after the throttle body, cleaned the throttle body itself, removed any pitting (as much as possible) from any surfaces, soaked the two EGR gaskets,. added copper paste to all bolts when reinserting, etc.

IIDtool and its live values on a ipad was invaluable while trying to bleed the air

Things that went wrong or were difficult:

- removing the elbow the after the throttle body. The torx screws were quite stuck and the middle full of dirt. Particularly the ones underneath were very troublesome to remove.
- the EGR valve was even worse, particularly the screws underneath were in very bad shape Censored
- took about 5 hours to get to the thermostat and get it loose
- T-piece looked fine but got brittle when we tried to open it at one point in the air bleed procedure
- bleed procedure was a bCensoredh

I’ll chip in with some pictures, too:

Early stages:

Click image to enlarge


Thermostat housing removed:

Click image to enlarge


A bit cleaned up:

Click image to enlarge


About half way done:

Click image to enlarge


Almost done:

Click image to enlarge


IID is nice:


Click image to enlarge



Happy end:

Click image to enlarge


FCensoredd part of the thermostat housing
Click image to enlarge


Dodgy looking temperature sensor

Click image to enlarge


The thing is, I don’t think the heater core is/was broken at all as once we managed to bleed the air also the driver’s side (on LHD) got hot but it took several hours to get to. Also, the bleed screw on top of the engine housing (the one in the T-piece) was necessary to get air out for us.


Moral of the story: have spares around and keep and open mind Whistle Thumbs Up
  
Post #220479224th Jan 2021 12:49 am
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Discoveringcomfort
 


Member Since: 16 Sep 2015
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 637

England 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Zambezi SilverDiscovery 3

"The yellow clip which is there to keep part of the thermostat in place had also broken at some point in the past and wasn’t present."

TBH I think it is only there to stop you pulling it apart when the manifold is not fitted to the vehicle as it does nothing when bolted up. The mounting faces in 90 deg planes holds it together. The dodgy temp sender is standard and I kept looking to see if it leaked but could not see any sign.

The hose with the T piece in it starts under the inlet manifold and connects to a reducer hose attached to the back of the opening facing upwards that is under the throttle body. You can see the horizontal hole in your picture. This is a well dodgy looking item in the parts manual and I was never sure that it was not leaky or perished.
 Series 1 V8
Series 2 Hibrid V8
Discovery 3 HSE V8 
 
Post #220485824th Jan 2021 11:30 am
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kajtzu
 


Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6538

Finland 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Agreed Thumbs Up We decided that the guys who designed the engine had never intended it to be serviced And certainly weren’t intending on doing it themselves Laughing

Also that there are both imperial and SI bolts was a bit of a surprise and slightly annoying..

About the temp sensor, I didn’t take a picture of it once removed, but the gasket inside it looked pretty brittle.

You may well be correct about the yellow clip. When we compared old and new, it was missing, and the old one gave away instantly and felt kind of squishy when touched there - the picture of the plastic rim being all Censored kind of explained why.

Like Jack Norris said, engine temperature goes now to the mid range after a few minutes which is a remarkable thing and quite an improvement.
  
Post #220487024th Jan 2021 11:57 am
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scraig
 


Member Since: 06 Feb 2011
Location: Langley, BC
Posts: 100

Canada 2008 LR3 4.4 V8 SE Auto Stornoway GreyLR3

Good job! It is a bit tedious to change the whole hosing with all the parts to remove first but believe it or not I found making sure the coolant level and proper bleeding to be more challenging! Embarassed Laughing
 Stewart  
Post #220530725th Jan 2021 6:38 pm
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