Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: In A World of My Own!
Posts: 2863
I guess if you can hear activity then it’s just a faulty actuator - was it New and a genuine part?
Only ever had to change one door actuator and one tailgate actuator on all 4 of my D3 and D4 over the years and the 1 I changed was a genuine one that’s still workingMust stop buying shiny toys....
16th Sep 2020 9:57 am
tommyb159
Member Since: 13 Aug 2013
Location: bradford
Posts: 36
It was a cheap new part off eBay so maybe has the same issue of being at a different angle. Where would I put the zip tie ? Or is it pretty obvious the slack when I get in there?
Think I’ll try the zip tie and if I can’t do that I’ll buy a genuine part
16th Sep 2020 2:57 pm
Trailered Movements
Member Since: 16 Jan 2020
Location: East/West Sussex Coast Borders
Posts: 1198
It's obvious when you see it, honest. I basically strapped the door release cable to the lever it attaches to, and threaded the cable tie into the slot with the cable end.
Dave2011 Discovery 4 Commercial SDV6 (Gone)
2010 RRS TDV8 (Gone)
1980 OBLIC 4.0ltr Range Rover (went a long time ago)
16th Sep 2020 3:07 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13571
Plus 1, also done the same ref a cable tie , drove me nuts as everytime I tried to get the door card back on the cable would come off
So indeed after installing a cable tie stopped it coming off and as other have said it’s obvious when u see it
Saves u alot of grief
16th Sep 2020 4:37 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13571
Also found these very handy getting the door card off , blue pliers also great for the wheel arch trim clips
16th Sep 2020 4:40 pm
BAM
Member Since: 06 Apr 2009
Location: Leeds
Posts: 8
tommyb159 wrote:
Tried all the tricks to get the door to open one last time but unfortunately it wasn’t to be. So out came the front seat, which was a job in its self with how heavy the thing is!! Luckily when I got the door card off I by chance pulled the handle wire and it unlatched the door. So I’m thinking it was the mechanism the attached to the wire and not the motor. But it’s been replaced and working now.
Thanks again for all your help. Very much appreciated 👍🏻
Hi all, so I have the same problem as tommyb159 but mine is the rear n/s door, and it's just failed the MOT as a result. I've tried all the tips and tricks with key fob and dash buttons, also disconnected and reconnected the battery, no joy.
Just wondered if anyone had any other suggestions and also if there is a way to remove the rear door card with the rear seat(s) still in place?
Thanks in Anticipation
BAM
18th Sep 2020 12:55 pm
MintyHit
Member Since: 25 Jul 2017
Location: Bradford on Avon
Posts: 227
^
I'm in the exact same boat... my next move is to try and pull the door card off from the inside but I've no idea how to release the door from there.
18th Sep 2020 1:15 pm
Serious pete
Member Since: 05 Sep 2012
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 3
I’m in the same boat too
Rear door locked
Card removed
No amount of messing with the lock will open the door
Just about to start “attacking” the lock from the inside!!
Anybody else have any luck in this situation??
8th Nov 2020 1:53 pm
Serious pete
Member Since: 05 Sep 2012
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 3
Little update for anyone in the same situation,
It’s actually quite easy to destroy the old latch in situ so you can door lock gubbins so you can release the lock. took me 5 mins with a big screwdriver and a modicum of anger.
8th Nov 2020 3:16 pm
MintyHit
Member Since: 25 Jul 2017
Location: Bradford on Avon
Posts: 227
Could you give me some more details of how you 'attacked' the mechanism from the inside?
I've just ordered a replacement inner door card and actuator. My plan is roughly the same as yours.
James
8th Nov 2020 5:02 pm
Serious pete
Member Since: 05 Sep 2012
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 3
Hi James,
Here’s what I did,
1) disconnect the electric connector and the cable latches ( if you can)
2)There is one small torx bit on the latch that you can remove with you head through the window regulator hole, that loosens thing up.
3) break off what plastic bits you can
4) pull / push/ twist the remains of the window regulator to weaken it as much as you can
5) finally stick a big ass screwdriver through the hole in the door and use the leverage to break the remains off, actually not that hard
After all that you can see what needs to be pushed to release the lock, it sounds tough, but actually the latch is pretty weak plastic, so comes apart easily.
You will be soo happy when the door finally pops open
8th Nov 2020 5:53 pm
smoke4k
Member Since: 21 Oct 2020
Location: Chippenham
Posts: 47
gstuart wrote:
Also found these very handy getting the door card off , blue pliers also great for the wheel arch trim clips
You know when you see a tool that you never realised existed and then you NEED one. Well now I need some of those trim pliers they look great thanks for that haha!
8th Nov 2020 7:45 pm
MintyHit
Member Since: 25 Jul 2017
Location: Bradford on Avon
Posts: 227
Success! Nice day today so I had a go using the below instructions and it is indeed easy to break actuator casing and unlatch the door.
Thanks for the tip!
Serious pete wrote:
Hi James,
Here’s what I did,
1) disconnect the electric connector and the cable latches ( if you can)
2)There is one small torx bit on the latch that you can remove with you head through the window regulator hole, that loosens thing up.
3) break off what plastic bits you can
4) pull / push/ twist the remains of the window regulator to weaken it as much as you can
5) finally stick a big ass screwdriver through the hole in the door and use the leverage to break the remains off, actually not that hard
After all that you can see what needs to be pushed to release the lock, it sounds tough, but actually the latch is pretty weak plastic, so comes apart easily.
You will be soo happy when the door finally pops open
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