Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14172
Ultimate overland camping design
Saw this and hope it may be useful
Last edited by gstuart on 18th May 2020 3:53 am. Edited 1 time in total
17th May 2020 11:04 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14172
Few more interesting videos
18th May 2020 3:52 am
Hot Tub
Member Since: 15 Aug 2017
Location: Milton Keynes
Posts: 1071
Like the trailer type thing looks well thought out and made but guessing not cheap. Looking forward to watching all of it time for work now Welsh Collie Chauffeur Service To Barney & Rooney.
18th May 2020 5:26 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14172
Likewise , u might want to sit down as those camper units are between £15-25k
Am also looking forward for the rest of his videos
Stay safe and well mate
18th May 2020 8:19 am
leeds
Member Since: 30 Aug 2010
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 4316
Our auxiliary batteries have always been starter/leisure batteries so (it has only happen once) the main battery has been flattened could always start the vehicle off the auxiliary battery.
If auxiliary battery is flat you may have warm beer. If starter battery is flat you could be up sh*t creek without a paddle or possibly dead.
Preserve the state of charge of main battery is the important/vital thing.
Brendan
18th May 2020 8:25 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14172
Indeed ref the main battery , Didn’t realise at first the D4 has a different charging system, does it charge at a lower rate so that’s what the DC to DC chargers are designed for
Did sort of get the basics around the design, famous last words
On mine I have the t max split charge and recharge them via the 12s socket , did notice when not on charge that my main battery was being drained , found that the T max relay had stuck open
Main battery being a 100 amp and aux was only 75 amp so alas the aux was taking the amps out the main battery
Have since disconnected them
Do find it interesting all the different charging systems, suppose never really got into it before getting the D3 and seeing how power hungry they are
Am looking forward fitting a couple of solar panels which I hope will make a lot of difference
So after going on about the problem for ages, with massive emphasis on FIFTY AMP CHARGER he says that using the trigger wire fixes it. me not a problem after all ??
No wait "if you accidentally leave the ignition on for an hour or two it will flatten the battery ".
No Sherlock... you don't need leisure batteries and FIFTY AMP CHARGERS for that to happen..
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
18th May 2020 8:59 am
Andy Foster
Member Since: 27 Dec 2009
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 6551
I’ve the same Redarc unit albeit a 40amp one. Not got it fully wired up yet but may fit a battery isolator switch in between the main and auxiliary batteries. A bit easier that taking the fuse out.D4 MY15 SE TECH
D3 gone but never forgotten.
If I understood the video correctly, the alternator sense wire only let's the unit do it's thing when the alternator is active ... so you shouldn't need a switch..
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
18th May 2020 12:19 pm
Andy Foster
Member Since: 27 Dec 2009
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 6551
Think that wire is only connected if you have a smart alternator. So if you have a D3 the switch may still be needed. I should be fine without the switch on my D4 but hey we all like switches D4 MY15 SE TECH
D3 gone but never forgotten.
18th May 2020 12:30 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14172
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14172
Made the pics abit bigger
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
18th May 2020 4:11 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14172
Andy Foster wrote:
I’ve the same Redarc unit albeit a 40amp one. Not got it fully wired up yet but may fit a battery isolator switch in between the main and auxiliary batteries. A bit easier that taking the fuse out.
Hi andy
Hope ur keeping safe and well
Those redarc unit looks a serious bit of kit , as always great fun when trying to fit add ons and to then see what works with what
Will be interesting if u don’t mind taking some piccies plse when u get round to fitting it, many thks
18th May 2020 4:17 pm
Andy Foster
Member Since: 27 Dec 2009
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 6551
It will be mounted here (ish). Had a test fit and all seems good. Will need to cut the pocket out of the trim as it gets in the way. But will be doing that anyway to fit the new power panel.
Also looking at making my own bracket/tray for the Yellow Top.D4 MY15 SE TECH
D3 gone but never forgotten.
18th May 2020 8:03 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14172
Thks andy
Funny enough read an article the other day , ref the yellow batteries , that they put the lead into coils instead of flat plates to prevent them from fracturing due to vibration going over roughy terrain
Yeh i know, I need to get out more, lol
Great idea putting it there as indeed handy area behind the rear boot panels
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he says that using the trigger wire fixes it. 
me not a problem after all ??
... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
