Leran boy
Member Since: 04 Jan 2016
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 23
  
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| Turbo actuator sticking - before I get carried away.... |
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Hi All
Yes there are a good many posts on here about actuator problems and I have read a few, which kind of worries me 
So, I am being told by my local garage (not LR) that the actuator on my turbo is sticking and I will need a new turbo. £4K body off job.
So the issue is lack of power under load as the turbo is coming in late. It used to kick in at about 2000 rpm, now its about 2400. Once engaged, it goes like a train but on long slow hills, particularly motorway climbs fully laden I have been down to third in order to maintain some headway. That can be scary in France.
If I do pootle around the lanes locally for work I rarely use the turbo but when I do, we get into laying smoke like a battleship for about 10 seconds and then it clears. I have blanked the EGR valves off and the trip still tells me I am returning 38 mpg and I have cleaned the MAP sensor.
My question is, can I release the actuator from sticking easily without cocking anything else up?
Cheers
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 29th Aug 2023 9:50 am |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10735
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I wonder if the black smoke indicates a leak somewhere. Eg intercoooler. Any oil patches on it indicating a possible leak?
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| 29th Aug 2023 10:15 am |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10735
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Could try some wynns turbo vvt cleaner (purple bottle) to see if it is really a turbo issue
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| 29th Aug 2023 10:18 am |
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Leran boy
Member Since: 04 Jan 2016
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 23
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Hi Pete
Thanks for the advice. I too wondered if I had split hoses anywhere leading to the air ingress and black smoke, but I cannot see any issues.
The engine bay and underneath are as dry as a bone oil wise so, I don't think that is an issue.
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| 29th Aug 2023 10:40 am |
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motorworks
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Usk
Posts: 412
 
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It's a bit fiddly but not that difficult to remove the n/s heatshield and check for free movement on the turbo linkage. There is a thread on the forum with rough dimensions to make a tool from bent wire.
I have a 2.7 with sticking linkage. I freed it, but problem soon returned. Body now off to replace rear ACE pipes, so a good time to remove turbo, pull it apart and clean thoroughly. After that seems good as new.
Best way to remove deposits stuck in the actuator shaft is a solvent carbon cleaner, works a treat. Would be great if there was a way to use it in situ. Chris
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| 29th Aug 2023 11:40 am |
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Leran boy
Member Since: 04 Jan 2016
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 23
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What causes the deposits do you think?
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| 29th Aug 2023 11:44 am |
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TheWojtek
Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Poznan, Poland
Posts: 82
  
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Low RPM driving, short trips with a cold engine, EGR deletes. Wojtek
L319: dad's
L320: mine
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| 29th Aug 2023 1:36 pm |
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Leran boy
Member Since: 04 Jan 2016
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 23
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Ah, alas I tick all those boxes
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| 29th Aug 2023 1:58 pm |
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G7jtk
Member Since: 03 Jun 2014
Location: Prudhoe
Posts: 864
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Have you tried working the actuator back and forth by hand?
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| 29th Aug 2023 9:49 pm |
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motorworks
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Usk
Posts: 412
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Leran boy wrote:What causes the deposits do you think?
I had a customer's TDV8 in the workshop, with poor performance after it was parked in a coastal area for many months. Garage had diagnosed turbo failure and quoted £3k+ to replace the pair.
I found os turbo was working and ns stuck, but it was fairly easy to free up. That was back in Spring, not heard from customer since so I assume it is still running sweetly.
The deposits are carbon which seems to act like a friction material, and sets over time. I had a used turbo on the shelf for more than a year, working when I took it off but stuck solid upon checking it a few days ago. Chris
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| 29th Aug 2023 9:52 pm |
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Leran boy
Member Since: 04 Jan 2016
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 23
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G7jtk wrote:Have you tried working the actuator back and forth by hand?
Apologies if I am coming across as inept, but is that easy to do on my driveway? I am used to working on morris minors and MGB's. I love my D3 but he is a bit intimidating to work on! 
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| 30th Aug 2023 9:49 am |
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G7jtk
Member Since: 03 Jun 2014
Location: Prudhoe
Posts: 864
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Yes.
There are videos on YouTube on how to do this but essentially set the suspension to hi then remove the heat shield from inside passenger side front wheel well. Fashion a hook that allows you to both push and pull. Hook this over the actuator arm and push it back and forth. Lubricant the ball joints.
I’m sure that I got the design for the hook on this site somewhere.
Here it is.
https://disco3.co.uk/forum/turbo-actuator-...uator+tool
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| 30th Aug 2023 11:20 am |
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classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
 
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As said, turbo actuator is not too bad to get at through the passenger side wheel arch.
I did one for a friend and the actuator was really tight. Wire didn't get it moving so I used a long flat blade screwdriver to push the arm and high tensile fence wire to pull. At first there was no movement and I had to apply quite a hard push to get it moving. Once it starts to move you need to just keep on it pushing and pulling until there is essentially no resistance, the application of lubrication may help, so GT85 or similar. Once freed off, you should be able to flick the top of the arm with a finger to make it move. Do as earch and you'll find plenty of info on this including a range of options for what others have used to lubricate the linkage. HTH
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| 31st Aug 2023 6:40 am |
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HairyFool
Member Since: 04 Jan 2023
Location: North Essex
Posts: 704
 
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Mine failed when towing the caravan, any attempt to work the engine hard resulted in lots of bongs, low power and smoke. Not always easy with the van on the back but pull over, switch of and leave it for a few mins and it would start and keep it gentle could get it up to a good cruising speed.
Following the instructions on this site to make a hook got the actuator moving. A bit scraping at 1st but lubed with WD40 and and a straw to extend the spray tube into the space. Not ideal for high temps but has worked fine ever since.
Incidentally mine still had its EGR tubes fitted which I have since removed, the gunk inside the actuator box and inlet manifolds was something to behold. A visitor from the dark side, my other vehicle is an is still an EV. Strictly speaking its SWMBO.
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| 31st Aug 2023 7:28 am |
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MrNicotra
Member Since: 21 Jul 2023
Location: Central Belt, Scotland
Posts: 49
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Sorry to revive this thread
Is it possible that the actuator is stuck or partially stuck and NOT show any DTC errors?
I'm just having issues with pressure boost. There are no leaks as confirmed today. I wonder if the actuator is just not working as it should?
Thanks
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| 5th Dec 2024 8:08 pm |
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